6 replies to this topic

[floormanager]

Hello,

I've recently had trouble with a seeping HS2 float chamber gasket.  I replaced the gasket with an official SU gasket but it took a few attempts to seal (new gasket each time).  I'm wondering if the lid has deformed over time, with the areas around the screws bottoming out before sufficient compressing force has been achieved.  Any thoughts?

 

Paul

Edited by floormanager, Yesterday, 08:31 PM.

[DeadSquare]

YES.

 

The alloy is cheap casting rubbish, not even fit for making Dinky cars.

 

To test your hypothesis, use valve grinding paste to treat the lid as though it is a valve by rotating it on the float chamber, to show the high spots.  You might be lucky and grind out the leak.

 

As a bodge, thin smear of bath caulk on both sides of the gasket

[68+86auto]

It's probably been over tightened. They don't need to be very tight. There's no pressure that it needs to hold, it just stops any fuel that splashes around.

[floormanager]

Thank you for your suggestions, I will try and test.  I should imagine they have been overtighted (by me even to stop the bloody leak).  New lids are expensive and I wanted to make sure I was not wasting money unnecessarily.  I like the valve grinding paste idea.

 

Paul

[68+86auto]

Thank you for your suggestions, I will try and test.  I should imagine they have been overtighted (by me even to stop the bloody leak).  New lids are expensive and I wanted to make sure I was not wasting money unnecessarily.  I like the valve grinding paste idea.
 
Paul

You could sand it flat using sandpaper on a piece of glass

[Designer]

Hi,

 

Not teaching to suck eggs I hope but don't forget to check  float gap once sanding/grinding has bee done.

 

Paddy

[floormanager]

Not teaching at all!  A very valid piece of advice.  To be honest, whether I'm over-worrying but I would not mind changing the float lids to the ones with a piped overflow, as I don't want to have petrol spilling out from a stuck needle valve and igniting.