5 replies to this topic

[1958jcb]

I have a mk3 Elf with alloy remote gear selector
Since reinstalling the engine and gearbox which have both been professionally rebuilt, the gears have been stiff and difficult to engage. I put this down to being new. Second gear didn’t feel right to engage from day one, but now I can’t engage it at all. As if there isn’t enough travel on the gearstick to put it in gear.
I removed the gear stick and changed the split nylon bush at its base and regreased it. At first this made things worse and I couldn’t get 4th or reverse. So I took it out again, but this time loosened the bolt on the side that goes into the groove on the large ball. Pressed it down and tightened it up and tightened the side screw.
I’m now back to where I was with 4th and reverse back ok but still can’t get 2nd.
I’m convinced it is the selector issue and not the gearbox itself.
Any ideas?

[Phantom3D]

I had a similar issue after a rebuild back in 2014. For me it was the wrong ordering of some shims/spacers in the bottom of the gearbox. Sorry for the lack of details, this was a while back

[1958jcb]

I have the later 1967 gearstick

[Ratters]

Hi

My mini cooper mk1 had a stiff change between gears and when selecting 1st.

I found that by packing the upper retaining cup (two screws) on the remote to be a bit higher with a couple of flat washers between the cup and the casting the selection was much improved. May work for you.

[Spider]

First, I'd suggest assuming nothing and checking everything.

 

I agree that often a fresh built gearbox can be a bit tight to shift, but they usually loosen up fairly quickly, not get tighter and in particular, not get tighter in any particular gear.

I'd suggest from where you are at now separating the remote off the gearbox and feeling the movement of the remote while uncoupled while also checking it for free play, then selecting gears from the levers under the diff cap, this will steer you are to where it's likely the issue is.

A common source of issues with these gearboxes is the knuckles that are on top of the diff housing, being fitted the wrong way around, having play in the ball & socket or being loose on their splines, though these usually result in the shift not having enough throw rather than being tight.

[Earwax]

For me now , i make sure I can emulate the gear changes in the box( when still split) and then at the knuckles and then with the extension housing bolted on ---- all whilst engine is out of the bay ( ask me why I say NOW)

 

 

 

Can you play with the knuckles ( male and female) whilst still in the engine bay????   -  I must admit i haven't tried because I thought I didn't have enough room for the correct angles etc,,,,, so i pull the engine.

 

 

In the extension housing - the Primary Shaft with the 2 finger claw at the end sits at an angle when not engaged - so its orientation can be out just a touch 

 

and as Spider suggests the orientation / movement of the shafts and knuckles is key.