8 replies to this topic

[Edington]

Still working on the sky and as usual not come across this problem in many years of working on minis. I am replacing both engine mounts the ones that bolt to the front subframe. Having taken the old ones off (they've had it) I have been trying to fit two new ones but there is no way with them fitted that the engine sits in the subframe to be able to insert the fitting bolts. So are there different thicknesses of mount?  

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[nicklouse]

Fit one side loosely with the nuts on. Then lift the engine on that side. The other side will drop. Fit nuts and bolts. Tighten up both sides.

 

ps May the Fork be with you.

[Cooperman]

First of all, I always weld some substantial nuts onto the new mounts, 5/16" UNF. Never use the mounts with the Riv-Nuts and metric bolts.

Then I fit the mounts onto the engine after putting a thin layer of grease onto the sub-frame to help with sliding the engine into position. I also always increase the hole size in the sub-frame to 3/8" or 10mm, which helps with location.

[Steam]

There were some threads a while back regarding new mounts being a different size, a search will help you find them.

[KTS]

as Nick suggests above;  with the engine clear of the subframe fit both mounts to the engine as normal.  before fitting the engine to the subframe remove the upper bolt that secures the mounting bracket to the gearbox on the crank pulley side (this allows the bracket to rotate inward as it drops into the subframe).  a little bit of copper slip on the bottom of the engine mount will help it slip into place

 

lower the engine into the subframe clutch end first and loosely fit the bolts (and nuts) through the subframe.  once that's done, lower the other end into the subframe 'til the holes line up and insert the bolts and at that end - fit washers nuts etc finger tight.  when dropping the engine in keep an eye on the mounting bracket to make sure it doesn't foul on the crank pulley etc as it folds in

 

once the bolts are in, get a scissor jack under the gearbox (crank pulley end) and jack it up until you can refit the engine mount bracket upper bolt.

[Edington]

OK will give it a try. I managed to fit both nuts and bolts through the subframe and engine mount on the clutch side which as usual is a real fiddle, even with long fingers! It seems as though the engine needs to go a fraction towards the clutch end to make the crank pully engine mount sit down into the subframe!

[imack]

Slacken the two through bolts on the engine mounting bracket on the radiator end of the gearbox. It will give some more wiggle room.

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[Edington]

Thanks for the thought imack but already tried that, even took it right off! I think I might have to start over again but not looking forward to it!

[Edington]

Just spent a painful few hours removing the engine mount nuts and bolts from the clutch end and started again. This time I fitted both engine mount nuts and bolts on the crank shaft pully end. Left them loose and waggled the engine until first one then the other clutch end engine mounting bolts slotted in. Don't ask me why fitting the clutch end first meant I couldn't get the crank case pully engine mount holes to line up, I tried everything. But there again there is always something new to learn !! PS someone said you can fit an engine with the servo in situ but you need to take most if not all the auxiliaries of the engine and it's still very tight. My friend who used to rally minis put his servo under the back seat, wise move :)