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Removing Ballast Wire To Fit Electronic Ignition


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#1 babsbrown

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 07:04 AM

Good morning guys,

I'm fitting a 45d with electronic ignition and 0.9 ohm coil as recommended by the seller



My engine is a pre A+ in a 90s car.
It has the pink and white ballast wiring
With yellow and white wiring from the solonoid.

To fit the kit and remove the Ballast wiring (at risk of melting looms) can I do the following?:

Fit new dizzy and coil
Run a white wire 12v switched live from fuse box (terminal 1) to the coil +

Run the red wire from dizzy to coil +
Black wire from dizzy to coil -

To keep the Ballast wiring. Could I simply run a 12v supply to red distributor wiring. And then connect the black distributor wiring to the coil -? Leaving the pink white, yellow white wires in situ?

Looking at the wiring diagrams it seemed that pre ballast they had white and black from dizzy to coil-. And a switched ignition supply (white) to the positive terminal.

Thanks, Babs

Edited by babsbrown, 16 May 2025 - 07:12 AM.


#2 Ethel

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 11:30 AM

Depends on the electronic ignition. It probably has its own internal ballast, which would be wired with a new feed off the fuse box as you suggest. That's how the factory 65D dizzy was wired with that coil.

 

I'd confirm with the supplier.



#3 babsbrown

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 12:22 PM

Thanks Ethel, I confirmed with the supplier

The Ballast wiring remains in place.
A 12V supply is connected to the red wire on the dizzy.

The black wire on the dizzy connects to the negative on the coil.

However it is harder to start now so I will be looking further into this.

The coil I'm running is now a 0.9ohm one with electronic ignition.

Cheers

#4 68+86auto

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 12:34 PM

You need to bypass the resistive wire just like you described initially.



#5 babsbrown

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 01:51 PM

You need to bypass the resistive wire just like you described initially.


Thanks,

I've tried both ways now and are both successful.and run equally well
With that in mind I'm going to keep my ballast circuit in place and keep my old coil and dizzy (points) one spare In case this electric one packs up and leaves Mr stranded

#6 68+86auto

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 02:31 PM

You need to bypass the resistive wire just like you described initially.

Thanks,

I've tried both ways now and are both successful.and run equally well
With that in mind I'm going to keep my ballast circuit in place and keep my old coil and dizzy (points) one spare In case this electric one packs up and leaves Mr stranded

The coil and module needs to see the full 12v. Yes it may run with the resistor in place but it is reducing the coils output. You should be able to see this by checking the dwell, it is probably a lot higher than the approximately 20 degrees that a high energy system will run at during idle.

Edited by 68+86auto, 16 May 2025 - 02:33 PM.


#7 babsbrown

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 03:42 PM

You need to bypass the resistive wire just like you described initially.

Thanks,

I've tried both ways now and are both successful.and run equally well
With that in mind I'm going to keep my ballast circuit in place and keep my old coil and dizzy (points) one spare In case this electric one packs up and leaves Mr stranded
The coil and module needs to see the full 12v. Yes it may run with the resistor in place but it is reducing the coils output. You should be able to see this by checking the dwell, it is probably a lot higher than the approximately 20 degrees that a high energy system will run at during idle.

Ah thankyou, in that case I'll revert to plan one :D cheers for your help

#8 cal844

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Posted 16 May 2025 - 08:27 PM

So you'll need

12v wire to coil positive
12v to the red wire on distributor (possibly fit 2 wires to your terminal for coil positive (to power coil and module in one wire)

Bare in mind the timing is different from points to electronic distributors.

Edited by cal844, 16 May 2025 - 08:28 PM.


#9 babsbrown

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Posted 18 May 2025 - 06:35 PM

So you'll need

12v wire to coil positive
12v to the red wire on distributor (possibly fit 2 wires to your terminal for coil positive (to power coil and module in one wire)

Bare in mind the timing is different from points to electronic distributors.


Thanks I've done exactly that, and she runs nicely. Timed it up, as the curve was a bit too advance on full advance.

#10 Ethel

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Posted 19 May 2025 - 10:50 AM

Expect that's right. If it isn't the coil & wiring will get hotter than intended.






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