5 replies to this topic

[TheBebbs]

Evening all!

 

I've owned my Thirty for 30 years and recently dragged it out of the corner where it's been sitting for 17 years. We are fully aware it will need a full restoration and lots of parts replaced. I have a very excited 12-year-old and 17-year-old wanting to help strip and rebuild the car —neither has ever been in it.

 

Mechanically, i can do pretty much anything. Electrics baffle me and never tried welding on cars, but have done plenty of industrial welding as a youngster.

 

Before we start stripping it, I wanted to see if we can get it running again. It had no issues when it was parked up, but it has not been run for at least 10 years. We have put a small amount of oil in the bores to soak for a few days, rocked it in gear, and the engine is turning very freely. We treated it to an oil and filter change.

 

We put a known good battery on it today. I removed the plugs and dizzy cap so we could try to turn it over without firing it up - Mainly to check that it has oil pressure. When we turn the ignition switch, the dash lights do not illuminate, and nothing happens when the key is fully turned except for a click noise from behind the dash. Hazards work, so there must be some power somewhere.

 

We put a bar across the starter terminals, the starter is turning but not trying to engage drive to the engine, so that one problem Second problem is what appears to be no power to the ignition switch.

 

I stripped and cleaned the starter tonight; nothing obvious was stuck. The pinion on the front moves freely in and out, so I'm guessing something was stuck inside the starter, preventing it from engaging. I sprayed it internally with contact cleaner and got lots of slimy grime and dirt out of it, so maybe that was the problem. Built it back up and will refit this tomorrow.

 

Any tips on how I can test the ignition switch? I have a multi meter, but not really sure how to use it. Also, any other tips on what to check on the starter would be gratefully received.

 

Images from this week, and 30 years ago...........

 

 457133677_10162574415466614_5185346912256093082_n.jpg   67.87K   1 downloads

 

 454717263_10162509871156614_7461337983256866657_n.jpg   98.99K   0 downloads

 

 20250508_154124 reduced.jpg   91.31K   0 downloads

 

Thanks in advance for any tips or advice, i'm sure i'll be back with plently of questions as things progress

Edited by TheBebbs, 17 May 2025 - 11:25 PM.

[Designer]

Hi,

 

Welcome to the forum.

Good to see you are a TMF+ member but you do need to register your membership with Minispares in order to get the 71/2% discount on you orders.

Great to hear that two young ones are keen to get involved in the restoration of your 30.

You will get plenty of genuine advice and useful tips on this forum.

Take your time do not rush, invest in a Haynes Manual or better still a workshop manual if you can get one.

By two sets of ear mufflers for your children to protect them for the inevitable cursing that is compulsory when working on a Classic Mini. Oh and plasters.

My tip to start of with is to rig up a temporary fuel supply directly to the carb so that you are using fresh fuel. What is in the tank will be useless.

But above all the three of you enjoy the journey ahead together.

 

Paddy

 

Paddy

[Blumeanie]

Congratulations on getting the the mini back to life! Very exciting.

I also have 2 young boys - they are very eager to help, but kids' attention span is short.

I get them to help for short periods and then let them go off to other non mini pursuits...

Your 17 year old is likely driving. I expect he'll be MORE interested in getting it running!

One step at a time. Persistence will get you there!

[sonscar]

Clean all the connections at the starter,you may have already done this.The click is possibly the start relay on the triangle bit near the brake servo which can get crusty.Enjoy,Steve..

[Steam]

Well done on keeping a mini for 30 years and bringing a new generation to the Minijoy.
A better way to test the starter than a bar is to run a light wire from the lucar connector on the starter solenoid imstead of the wire thats already connected and touch the other bare wire end to the main battery terminal just above it on the solenoid. I actually use a foot switch to power the solenoid. Once it is turning over from the solenoid then you can start to check things.
Being sat 17 yrs poor earths will likely be your main issue. All earth points will be corroded and rusty and will need cleaning back to good bare metal and retighted well. Main earth from battery to body in the boot, earth engine strap on clutch side, body of solenoid to engine etc.
If you put your multimeter on a volt scale 8f auto range or on a 20v scale then you can test for voltage to the body. Although a 12v test light may be easier at first.
Meter on ohms or resistance nd you can test switches and also whether earths are onnected properly
The fuses in the fuse box may be corroded or faulty. Meter on ohms with the battery disconnected will prove fuse integrity.

[stuart bowes]

If you've done welding professionally then I'm sure you're gonna be fine but just bear in mind the metals involved are less than a mm, .8 or .9 so you'll need a setup based on that instead of a more industrial high power setup.

You just weld a series of small tacks allowing time for cooling and building up a 'dime stack' gradually. Distortion will be a concern in places more so than with thicker sections

Any bits you cut off take them to the bench and do a bit of welding on them so you can practise welding and prepping old metal to new

Good to hear getting kids involved though my oldest just starting to show a slight interest but not enough to actually put any effort into trying

Edited by stuart bowes, 18 May 2025 - 11:36 AM.