I've removed the heater, turns out the newish pipe to the heater valve was blocked with crud from the heater matrix.
All cleaned and matrix properly flushed through then topped up with de-ionised water. Bluecol used 50/50 with the de-ionised water to fill the radiator. I could still only get around 2.5 litres in there in total, I guess there's a lot of water in the block that's difficult to drain.
The car is getting to temp and staying there, the heater is hot to the touch, and no overheating whilst idling.
As we have discussed on another thread, yesterday I got the heater out of the car and flushed it. I put it back in, but empty of water. Should I try filling it at the higher inlet as much as possible? Or will air find its way out again when the entire system is refilled?
Yes, I filled mine with de-ionised water prior to connecting it back up to the head/upper rad hose. Saves any issues further down the line with air pockets.
Coming back to this. Now it is winter the internal heater is in need. Although the general engine heating issue is well controlled (which included the flushing of the internal heater filled with vinegar for some hours, which seemed to blast hot inside the car for purposes of testing), the internal heater blows pretty cold. Unless driving fast. Again, the general engine heating is fine. But not the internal heater. Pipes to/from are cold. Pulling and pushing in the heater knob changes nothing. Is the issue the valve in the engine compartment (connected to the push/pull knob) or just a need to replace the entire internal heater unit?
I would guess it's the heater valve on the cylinder as if the engine/radiator is getting warm but the heater pipes are cold then it could be because of the valve not opening.
Did you flush and reverse flush the matrix? Did the water flow through easily? If so, then there's nothing wrong with the heater.











