12 replies to this topic

[PeteD]

Hi all, I know this is a controversial topic with divided opinion, but I an interested in the technical.

 

I currently have my 1992 1275 carb mini sprite with no outer wings, front panel or bonnet, so I'm starting from nothing.

 

I am keen on putting a fibreglass front (fixed) with a fibreglass bonnet, however what are peoples experience getting them to fit nicely?

 

My worry with installing a metal front is 1) I'll be doing it, and I have little idea what I'm doing at the best if times, 2) longevity of a front end installed by me 3) just the lack of space getting the engine in/out, working on it etc.

 

Thanks

 

photo for attention, ha...

 

 

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[Gaz66]

If you buy a "skin" steel front it will be lighter than a fibreglass one according to my rallycrosser mate plus you can always kick it back into shape😁
If you want lightness then a carbon one is the way. 👍

[bpirie1000]

Depends what for and where you use the car.

Hill climbers need weight saving. Where as rally boys need the dirt kept away and rigidity..

Have to say though space under the bonnet is always a benefit when doing g works on the engine repeatedly...

[PeteD]

Car is just a tinkering project really, been in the garage for 15 years, just planning to have it on the road for summers etc.

 

Access has always been my concern, hence looking at options that allow. another option is making a steel front I can remove, but feels like it will become over engineered and expensive (always a consideration these days)

[Steam]

You will need to make some strong rigid support bars to tie the subframe back to the bodywork, don't be tempted to skimp on them either as the front end alignment and strength will be compromised. I fitted a glass flip front to a mini many years ago and it was fine and fitted well after some fettling.

[nicklouse]

Car is just a tinkering project really, been in the garage for 15 years, just planning to have it on the road for summers etc.

 

Access has always been my concern, hence looking at options that allow. another option is making a steel front I can remove, but feels like it will become over engineered and expensive (always a consideration these days)

You say access. Then you do NOT want a one piece front end. They are a pain and make the simplest job difficult. Or they need removing and putting on the ground.

 

a two piece front is workable. And if you have it bolt on access can be found with the removal of a few bolts.

[PeteD]

 

Car is just a tinkering project really, been in the garage for 15 years, just planning to have it on the road for summers etc.

 

Access has always been my concern, hence looking at options that allow. another option is making a steel front I can remove, but feels like it will become over engineered and expensive (always a consideration these days)

You say access. Then you do NOT want a one piece front end. They are a pain and make the simplest job difficult. Or they need removing and putting on the ground.

 

a two piece front is workable. And if you have it bolt on access can be found with the removal of a few bolts.

 

 

Yeah this was more my thinking as read a lot about flop fronts actually getting in the way a lot more than the access they provide.

 

Removing the engine is not something I plant to do a lot (do any of us) so I just maybe making an issue out of nothing, but the other benefit of reducing places to rot... I'm torn.

As @Steam mentioned regarding bracing, I do have some braces, but also been looking at the Arc Angels braces that are built as part of the shock mount, looks a clean solution. https://the-arc-ange...&product_id=346 I also like he concept of the up and over, but once again cost and I'm assuming the wiring loom (when I get one!) will need some customising to make this an every day solution....

[Steam]

If you flip it with hinges using removable pins and have the lights on a plug and socket then access is unlimited and removal is a 2 min job.

[nicklouse]

If you flip it with hinges using removable pins and have the lights on a plug and socket then access is unlimited and removal is a 2 min job.

And where do you put the front.

 

been there done what would not do again. ( thought it would be fine on the race car so tried it again).

[imack]

If you flip it with hinges using removable pins and have the lights on a plug and socket then access is unlimited and removal is a 2 min job.

And where do you put the front.

been there done what would not do again. ( thought it would be fine on the race car so tried it again).

Even a removable bonnet is a pain in the neck trying to find somewhere to put it so it doesn't get damaged.

[Ethel]

I had a flip front back in the day. It coped fine without brace bars, but it was a Mk3, without rubber subby mounts. I don't think I'd trust a solid mounted later subby as the rear mounts are still in a worse place. It was also pre SVA/IVA, I'd find a friendly MoT tester before even contemplating a flip front on a road car now. GRP has about twice the strength to weight ratio of steel - BUT a moulding thick enough to be adequately rigid will weigh at least the same and it's never going to be as well attached as with umpteen spot welds.

 

I didn't find access much of a chore (Dzus fasteners, front hinges) & it could be better if you managed a good set up with cable latches, possibly from the rear doors of a Transit or similar.

 

Given the amount of fettling welded wings need to get a good fit there's no way a flipper will be as neat without an immense of work & added complexity.

 

My Midas has bloody awful bonnet access really. However, you can do a surprising amount from under wheel arches because the bottom of the inner wings are roughly level with the damper mountings.

[Steam]

If you flip it with hinges using removable pins and have the lights on a plug and socket then access is unlimited and removal is a 2 min job.

And where do you put the front.
 
been there done what would not do again. ( thought it would be fine on the race car so tried it again).

You are neither the first or the last to do this, you put the front off to one side or the front or if you are feeling adventurous on the roof. The one I did was a van so I put the front into the back. It's not rocket science.

[r.tec]

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This is my version. My intensions:

 

1  in case of an accident I wanted as much metal around me as possible: metal = ductile, GRP = brittle

 

2 front completely detachable when chaning engine/gearbox which is at least once a year

 

3 seperate bonnet in GRP for quick access in between

 

For fixing I let myself inspire by the Harper rally Mini, i.e. Allen screws with welded-in nuts

 

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Edited by r.tec, Today, 04:34 PM.