13 replies to this topic

[postve]

Okay, I need to reach across the pond for this one to the guys who truly understand our lovely little classic mini - here’s what’s going on with my other mini;

- new clutch
- new clutch slave
- newer (I have three and tried them all and yes they work) master cylinder

Been bleeding for ages and although clutch does get hard, and moves the clutch arm, cannot get into gear. If I hear there air in the line I am going to jump off a bridge as been trying forever to get it out - assuming you blokes come to the same conclusion ?

Adjusted everything on the clutch arm, multiple times

Car shifts into gear when off no problem

Now here is the interesting part;

If I drop in a crowbar and pull the clutch arm back and adjust the screw out to match, I can manually manipulate such that I can get it into gear when I start it - if this makes any sense whatsoever, if I do the regular adjust clutch, will not go into gear.

I am really hoping I am making sense and pound away for clarity.

Finally, does anyone know of a “pumping” brake bleeder kit they sell exclusively for mini and not the cheapo do it yourself stuff

Thx in advance M8’s

[Spider]

Sorry to hear of your troubles here - have you any hair left on your head ?

 

Because of the design of the Slave Cylinder, with the Bleed Nipple right over where the hose come in to it, there can be a fair sized cavity left inside the cylinder, which will hold air.

 

One way (of many) you can get around this is to fully release the adjustment, the small screw on the clutch cover that has the lock nut, that should allow the arm to come most or all the way in, pushing the piston of the cylinder almost or all the way to the bottom, thus reducing the size of this cavity and the air held in it.

 

 

[postve]

Okay thank you Spider that is worth a go as I have tried everything and only thing holding us up - will do so tomorrow and update ya - 7:17 pm on my side - thx M8

Also, open to other recos in the meantime

[NLinPEN]

I haven't bled the clutch slave cylinder on a Mini, but it is notoriously difficult on an MGB. That slave cylinder looks similar to the one shown in Spider's drawing above. The trick for the MGB is to not mount the cylinder on the car but have it hanging loose on its flexible hose. Then take some tie wraps and squeeze the piston in as far as possible. This reduces the internal chamber to its minimum volume. Now you do your conventional bleeding procedure with your helper who pushes the clutch pedal, but hold the slave cylinder in your hand such that the bleeder nipple is at the highest position. Once you have removed the air from it there is one more step: make sure that the master reservoir is full. Have the helper push the clutch pedal and cut the tie wraps while there's pressure on the hydraulics. This will push out the piston and finalizes the procedure. Now you can install the slave cylinder to the clutch housing.

Edited by NLinPEN, Yesterday, 05:22 AM.

[postve]

Thank you for this option, I will
Meticulously go through this as well if required and makes absolute sense!

[Spider]

I haven't bled the clutch slave cylinder on a Mini, but it is notoriously difficult on an MGB. That slave cylinder looks similar to the one shown in Spider's drawing above. The trick for the MGB is not not mount the cylinder on the car but have it hanging loose on its flexible hose. Then take some tie wraps and squeeze the piston in as far as possible. This reduces the internal chamber to its minimum volume. Now you do your conventional bleeding procedure with your helper who pushes the clutch pedal, but hold the slave cylinder in your hand such that the bleeder nipple is at the highest position. Once you have removed the air from it there is one more step: make sure that the master reservoir is full. Have the helper push the clutch pedal and cut the tie wraps while there's pressure on the hydraulics. This will push out the piston and finalizes the procedure. Now you can install the slave cylinder to the clutch housing.

 

This too will work for a Mini one BUT be sure the slave you have is the type that has a Circlip in the bore of it, like that in the drawing. Some of the non-genuine ones don't have them, and you don't want the piston popping out !

 

[postve]

Good point and I can confirm it does have that clip..

[NLinPEN]

 

This too will work for a Mini one BUT be sure the slave you have is the type that has a Circlip in the bore of it, like that in the drawing. Some of the non-genuine ones don't have them, and you don't want the piston popping out !

 

Thank you for that warning: I was not aware of such non-genuine items.
 

[Steam]

You can also use a hand vac pump to suck fluid into the cylinder and the air out.

[KTS]

i'd highly recommend one of these (the 150ml ones) for bleeding brakes/clutch 

 

https://www.louis-mo...number=10091745

 

the stahlbus bleed valves are an excellent investment too; not cheap, but makes bleeding and fluid changes a simple job - no assistant required

Edited by KTS, 14 June 2025 - 10:44 AM.

[postve]

Spider/Nilpen - tried it this morning and it definitely was rock solid with the straps, followed your instructions and the clutch was very firm. Once O was done and followed your instructions the clutch went back to being soft???? I watched closely to make sure all the air was out, as your process worked but, pedal went soft - gonna try one more time and open to recommendations - note the master should be good as have three

Edited by postve, 14 June 2025 - 01:24 PM.

[postve]

Heyyyyyyy, it seems to have worked !!!!!!! Thx Spider/Nlinpen and all, let me test and pray now!!!!

[postve]

She seems to be shifting np now, a few adjustments but came down to air in the space - brutal!! Thank you again Nlinpen, your feedback absolutely solved the issue!!!!!!

Edited by postve, 14 June 2025 - 03:02 PM.

[NLinPEN]

She seems to be shifting np now, a few adjustments but came down to air in the space - brutal!! Thank you again Nlinpen, your feedback absolutely solved the issue!!!!!!

Great to hear! Have fun with your car.