12 replies to this topic

[postve]

Guys/gals

I will be damned if I have to take this thing off for the 4th time!!!!! I have a brand new timing cover, and the thing still leaks - yes u will see gasket sealer as I am sick of taking this thing off - any other suggestions as tired of this problem - lol

https://imgur.com/a/y3CmHOs

[Homersimpson]

Guys/gals

I will be damned if I have to take this thing off for the 4th time!!!!! I have a brand new timing cover, and the thing still leaks - yes u will see gasket sealer as I am sick of taking this thing off - any other suggestions as tired of this problem - lol

https://imgur.com/a/y3CmHOs

If it still leaks after using gasket sealer then the leak may not be from there but either the back plate to engine gasket or the seal around the crank pulley.

 

I would pull the whole lot off, new gaskets, sealant and change the seal again.  Make sure when fitting the timing cover that you put the pulley on while the cover is loose to centralise it on the seal as well.

[postve]

I hear ya Homer and been there, new aluminum (fancy red one) backplate, seals and timing cover and the damn thing still leaks -arghhhhh

[sca]

Use rtv

[Spider]

A few things here.

 

The point on the cover represents one of the low points where oil will run to, from a higher point, so carefully check that it is in fact the timing cover, I've seen head gaskets leak, but down here is where it is easiest seen. Check that it's not the halfmoon seal or the front engine plate gasket.

 

The cover needs to be centralised before tightening up. There was a tool available for doing this I made mine;-

 

 

There's suggestions of using the pulley to do this and that maybe possible, but you need to be 100% sure when inserting each screw that you and not pulling the cover out of alignment, much harder said than done.

 

Be sure all the threads in the backing plate are flush and not pulled, even a light countershinking here doesn't hurt, but keep it very light as the plate is thin.

 

Be 100% sure the flange on the cover is dead flat.

 

Don't over-tighten the cover.

 

I have had some duff gaskets, it seems they were not made from gasket material !!

 

The seals in these are usually a double lip type, while nothing to do with sealing them, put some grease between these lips. Be sure the shank of the Damper or Pulley is not grooved.

 

For what ever it's worth, I use Threebond sealant on these, though prior to going to that, I also had good success with Permatex No. 3.

[postve]

Thx Spider and some past pictures putting it in and followed online instructions to the letter - it leaks right at the “valley”, or bottom curve just above gearbox

https://imgur.com/a/QSpb1do

Edited by postve, Yesterday, 06:31 PM.

[postve]

Use rtv

Buying some today as I am gonna be stubborn and not take that damn thing off again!!!!!

[Spider]

Thx Spider and some past pictures putting it in and followed online instructions to the letter - it leaks right at the “valley”, or bottom curve just above gearbox

https://imgur.com/a/QSpb1do

 

It appears that you replaced the Main Gallery Oil Plugs - good move, however have you checked you're not getting a leak from that ?

[postve]

Spider, I don’t think so but I suspect the timing plate might be slightly warped, hence the leak at the bottom

[Spider]

Spider, I don’t think so but I suspect the timing plate might be slightly warped, hence the leak at the bottom

 

Assume nothing - check everything !

[postve]

Wise advise Spider but I am quite confident that it is a slight warp in the plate (I am angry with myself as I might have over tightened) - gonna go RTV as again I do not want to go through the pain of taking this off again - if that fails - I have no choice - besides it’s 40c over here !!!!

[Earwax]

A bad pun to keep your spirits up.  Stay postve.     Now in all seriousness, Spider's and Homers thoughts are spot on . 

 

A couple of helpers for the above.

 

My eyes cant see, but if the oil galley plug has been changed to a grub screw , then thread types can differ slightly. (ask me how i know). I ended up grinding out a little half moon extra off the engine plate so i could access the plug/grub screw in situ.  I used a hydraulic sealant rather than loctite.

 

the branding on the plate, reminded me of a recent other thread where a Supercharger kit from the same company required elongating of a hole to allow fitment. If you have your old plate , just check alignment- as it is very possible to slightly pull the seal off centre - after centring it.  So check for this as well as straightness - whilst at it check the tensioner bolts fitment ( if you have a tensioner) - for the same thing

 

Not sure if applies to your engine plate - but the placement of short bolts ( top rear i think) is important to ensure you don't push the timing cover out when tightening.

[postve]

Thx as always earwax!!! I am going to do a few prayers for my quick fix but my fate awaits me I suspect!!

Edited by postve, Yesterday, 08:56 PM.