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A+ Block Swap To A Series


Best Answer Ethel , Today, 11:48 AM

You just need to use the transfer idler that matches your gearbox castings and the other transfer gears that match it. 

 

Though there's these if you have to put A into A+ casings

 

 

The plain oval A series timing cover should be easier with a duplex setup, you can use A+ but it'll likely need a bit of fettling not to rub. Pretty sure you won't need to change the back plate.

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#1 GD5

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Posted Today, 10:45 AM

Forgive me. I can see people have asked this before and got lots of detailed answers but I've now got my head in a twirl. This is for my 86 Midas Kit car.

 

I had a fully complete A-series setup. For long and reasons the block I now have is an A+ short block ( I can get the number of it if it helps) The gearbox I have is a 22G1832. Now from what I understand that will fit. 

 

My questions I guess are ? And I hope its easy yes/no or buy this bit as my head is mashed :(

 

 

I may need to do a little clearancing for the box to fit because of bearing straps in the A+ ?

 

I will probably have to change the timing plate and housing ? (I have a new Kent duplex vernier kit)

 

The head I have I will drill out to 11 Stud. (not worried about that)

 

The big one I'm struggling with is the drop gears and housing etc. Do I need the A+ housing or do I use all my A stuff including drop gears etc. 

 

Again apologies I'm so confused.  I'm trying to get everything together to get things going again after 10 years in bits . 

 

Thanks for any help 

 

Graeme.

 

If anyone is near me in Kilmaurs and wants a laugh at the mess of bits I have and point me in a direction your more than welcome. I'll make coffee and biscuits. Once I have all the bits I'm more than happy getting it together and machining etc. 

 



#2 Ethel

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Posted Today, 11:48 AM   Best Answer

You just need to use the transfer idler that matches your gearbox castings and the other transfer gears that match it. 

 

Though there's these if you have to put A into A+ casings

 

 

The plain oval A series timing cover should be easier with a duplex setup, you can use A+ but it'll likely need a bit of fettling not to rub. Pretty sure you won't need to change the back plate.



#3 DeadSquare

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Posted Today, 11:59 AM

You use the words "StrapS" in conjunction with Bearings.

 

Is this a Full Race engine ?

 

What is / Are the dimensions of the Strap-S ?



#4 GD5

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Posted Today, 12:09 PM

You just need to use the transfer idler that matches your gearbox castings and the other transfer gears that match it. 

 

Though there's these if you have to put A into A+ casings

 

 

The plain oval A series timing cover should be easier with a duplex setup, you can use A+ but it'll likely need a bit of fettling not to rub. Pretty sure you won't need to change the back plate.

 

Thank you! I really appreciate the quick and clear answer. So I'm good to go by the sounds of it so long as I can find all the bits from before :) 



#5 GD5

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Posted Today, 12:16 PM

You use the words "StrapS" in conjunction with Bearings.

 

Is this a Full Race engine ?

 

What is / Are the dimensions of the Strap-S ?

Forgive it is my by poor use of terminology, I should have used the term Caps at this stage. I doubt I will get it to a point of tune that I will need to strap the caps. A worry for a future date. you never know. 



#6 GD5

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Posted Today, 12:20 PM

Thanks for the fast responses. I will now proceed to work through all my boxes and try see what I'm missing after all these years  Greatly appreciated :)



#7 DeadSquare

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Posted Today, 01:10 PM

 

You use the words "StrapS" in conjunction with Bearings.

 

Is this a Full Race engine ?

 

What is / Are the dimensions of the Strap-S ?

Forgive it is my by poor use of terminology, I should have used the term Caps at this stage. I doubt I will get it to a point of tune that I will need to strap the caps. A worry for a future date. you never know. 

 

I have never found a gear box that can't accommodate a 1" square, centre main bearing strap on a shaved cap and I have only heard of a rear main bearing cap failing once, and that was when a different flywheel had been fitted without having the "bottom end " re-balanced.



#8 DeadSquare

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Posted Today, 01:27 PM

 

You just need to use the transfer idler that matches your gearbox castings and the other transfer gears that match it. 

 

Though there's these if you have to put A into A+ casings

 

 

The plain oval A series timing cover should be easier with a duplex setup, you can use A+ but it'll likely need a bit of fettling not to rub. Pretty sure you won't need to change the back plate.

 

Thank you! I really appreciate the quick and clear answer. So I'm good to go by the sounds of it so long as I can find all the bits from before :) 

 

If you are upgrading from a single to duplex timing chain, there are two screws that hold the backplate to the front main bearing cap that won't clear the duplex chain.

 

The two holes in the back plate need to be sufficiently countersunk for (ideally two 1/4" UNF Allen screws) to sit flush with the backplate.  As a second best, use two of the Phillips Head screws that hold the door check straps.

 

What cam are you using ?

 

Do you have a Dial Gauge to set the Vernier timing sprockets ?



#9 nicklouse

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Posted Today, 01:29 PM

They will fit together fine.

every thing is interchangeable on the block with the exception of the dizzy and dizzy drive.



#10 GD5

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Posted Today, 02:29 PM

 

 

You just need to use the transfer idler that matches your gearbox castings and the other transfer gears that match it. 

 

Though there's these if you have to put A into A+ casings

 

 

The plain oval A series timing cover should be easier with a duplex setup, you can use A+ but it'll likely need a bit of fettling not to rub. Pretty sure you won't need to change the back plate.

 

Thank you! I really appreciate the quick and clear answer. So I'm good to go by the sounds of it so long as I can find all the bits from before :) 

 

If you are upgrading from a single to duplex timing chain, there are two screws that hold the backplate to the front main bearing cap that won't clear the duplex chain.

 

The two holes in the back plate need to be sufficiently countersunk for (ideally two 1/4" UNF Allen screws) to sit flush with the backplate.  As a second best, use two of the Phillips Head screws that hold the door check straps.

 

What cam are you using ?

 

Do you have a Dial Gauge to set the Vernier timing sprockets ?

 

Good tip I will order some screws now for when it comes time ! Yes I have a dial gauge for this when it comes to setup. 

 

I'll report back tomorrow, I'll need to nip upto the unit to check what I purchased all that time ago lol :( 



#11 GD5

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Posted Today, 02:30 PM

They will fit together fine.

every thing is interchangeable on the block with the exception of the dizzy and dizzy drive.

Ah good Shout! I'll need to check what I have. I'll report back tomorrow after a trip to my unit !



#12 GD5

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Posted Today, 03:54 PM

Ok been to my unit so here's my rough build list of parts I have etc .

 

a+ 1275 Block to +20 

Omega 6.5cc dished pistons on 12G411 rods with ARP bolts balanced

Crank is balanced and treated Cam 6232

Dizzy 25D ( I now know I'll need to replace this and the drive spigot thing)  59D looks like what I need for now ?

Pre-Verto flywheel all balanced with clutch etc

Swifttune SW8 CAM kit with double springs and vernier Duplex chain kit

hif44 carb on Minispares manifold

maniflow 3-2-1 exhaust manifold 

 

Head Is a 12G940 as before  - I currently have choice of pressed rockers or the solid ( I believe the pressed are better ) 

gearbox as before 22G1832

 

Aim for now is to get this project going and improve later, feel free to comment on anything, Everything so far has been a great help and I'm feeling alot more motivated to ge ton with things :) Thank you all

 

G


Edited by GD5, Today, 04:14 PM.





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