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Mini Spares Performance Copper Head Gasket


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#1 Aridgerunner

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Posted Today, 12:51 PM

I have purchased their GEG300 copper head gasket. I asked them about using a sealant and they said not necessary. They also said I should run the engine for about one minute without any coolant in the system and then retorque the head.

Have.any of you used this gasket and followed those instructions?

#2 DeadSquare

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Posted Today, 01:44 PM

Those sorts of head gaskets are best used when the head and the block have both been under a surface grinder, ie, very clean very true surfaces.

 

Re-torquing the head as described, is good, fairly common practice, although I'd seek their suggested allowance for atmospheric temperature and RPM, to raise the head and block to their optimum temperature, before assuming that the 1 minute run-time, is the critical factor.

 

I do it when ever I replace a head gasket, but I run the engine at fast tick-over for about 10 minutes to get things evenly warm, if for no other reason, to check for leaks.  If I am able to, I re-torque the head a final time after 500 miles.



#3 PoolGuy

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Posted Today, 02:49 PM

I have purchased their GEG300 copper head gasket. I asked them about using a sealant and they said not necessary. They also said I should run the engine for about one minute without any coolant in the system and then retorque the head.

Have.any of you used this gasket and followed those instructions?

Yes, and that's exactly how I do it. I let it cool before checking the torque. (I use that process for any A series gasket, not just the copper one)



#4 Spider

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Posted Today, 06:11 PM

I have purchased their GEG300 copper head gasket. I asked them about using a sealant and they said not necessary. They also said I should run the engine for about one minute without any coolant in the system and then retorque the head.

Have.any of you used this gasket and followed those instructions?

 

With every commercially available head gasket, I do similar.

They have a heat release sealant on them. I am not keen to run the pump dry (though the seals in them are a run dry type these days) and I like to have something in the cooling jacket to equalise the temperatures, so I fill with plain water, do at least one heat cycle, check the whole cooling system for leaks. Let it cool over night, drain the plain water, retorque the head, reset the tappet clearance, then fill with coolant.



#5 lippo

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Posted Today, 08:02 PM

 I make no comment as I haven't done a head gasket for 30 years but I saw this YouTube video recently and it piqued my interest;

 



#6 Spider

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Posted Today, 10:51 PM

Sorry, I should have included this from ACL - jump to Q14 (though for completeness, I have posted the whole article);-

 

 

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