10 replies to this topic

[amsgw]

Hello, after some advice about removing a VERY stuck pot joint. It's a rod change box, the engine is still in the car. We've borrowed the official tool from our local mini garage who are exceptionally kind! We've managed to get the passenger side off with this no problem - the driver side however is simply not moving at all, I suspect the circlip is completely wonky. The tool has actually sheared a good amount of aluminium off the diff output cover in preference to moving the joint. The person behind the hammer is an ex power lifter so I don't think the amount of force is the issue... Does anyone know a good way to get at the joint other than this?! Do I have to cut the pot off?!? This sounds like an epically bad idea but I've exhausted everything else so far

[bpirie1000]

Cold chisel....dturn pot chisel again..

Bearing puller.
Apply some heat...


Is engine in car or out of car? On a ramp or on the ground?

[alpder]

If you're doing both sides then it sounds like you're removing the engine? Unless the pot joint has to come off the gearbox for some other reason, I prefer to use the 'big screwdriver and a hammer' method and remove the drive-shaft from the pot-joint. It's easier to do and a lot less brutal.

[amsgw]

Pots have to come off to replace the diff output gaskets which are leaking - she's on jack stands currently as I take the wheels off to disconnect the upper ball joint to relax the inners to get easier access to the pot

Bpirie where would you put the puller against? Or do you mean use a slide hammer on one?

[Designer]

Hi,

 

I have had this problem and somewhere there is a posting about this but I cannot find it.

Apparently it is caused by the groove in some of the new pot joints not being machined correctly.

This means that the circlip cannot be compressed therefore allowing the pot joint to slide off the output shaft.

One way to overcome this is to tap the pot joint lightly, try to remove it, if not successful turn the joint a few degrees tap it again then try removing it.

Repeat the process until hopefully you have success.

The reasoning behind this is to make sure the circlip is evenly spaced around its groove in the output shaft thus helping the movement of the point joint outwards to compress the circlip.

If the circlip is resting on the top of its grove in the output shaft it is by reason protruding below the bottom of the shaft by its diameter and possibly a fraction more.

Due to the incorrect machining there is no chamfer to allow the joint to slide over the circlip, the circlip comes up against a square edge.

By tapping and getting the circlip so that it is even around its groove there is a greater chance of it being compressed.

Fortunately when I had this problem I was removing the engine so all I did was split the joint cover both halves with plastic bags and get new boot bands for when reassembling them.

I hope this explanation helps.

 

Paddy

[nicrizz]

I’ve also had this problem, again it was caused by a poorly machined modern pot joint.
I managed to get the pot joint off by

1. Remove the diff from the car
2. Remove the plug from the centre of the pot joint, this allows you to get to the diff splines
3. Use 3x tig welding filler rods with the ends ground flat, insert them around the edges to compress the circlip
4. I then used a workmate and 2 pieces of 4mm flat steel under the pot joint with the diff hanging below. Using a punch I tapped the output shaft and the diff fell out from the pot joint. Put something soft underneath to catch the diff.

I have photos but no idea how to post them

[amsgw]

I’ve also had this problem, again it was caused by a poorly machined modern pot joint.
I managed to get the pot joint off by

1. Remove the diff from the car
2. Remove the plug from the centre of the pot joint, this allows you to get to the diff splines
3. Use 3x tig welding filler rods with the ends ground flat, insert them around the edges to compress the circlip
4. I then used a workmate and 2 pieces of 4mm flat steel under the pot joint with the diff hanging below. Using a punch I tapped the output shaft and the diff fell out from the pot joint. Put something soft underneath to catch the diff.

I have photos but no idea how to post them

That's a unique way, thanks - was this on a mini? Pulling the diff means pulling the engine and I really don't want to have to do that again because of a blummin gasket

[Spider]

Sounds like the C Clip may have been replaced at some point and over-streched in the process. When they are over stretched, they can come out of the groove when the joint has been fitted and so on removal, they may not retract in to the groove but become jammed in the splines.

 

I've removed them when like this with a bearing puller. The Joint needs to be taken apart, leaving the outer bell, then fit the puller over the bell with the screw of the puller wound in deep into the bell and keep going with it through the centre plug, these are only pressed steel, you will damage the plug beyond repair, but you'll get the bell off. The Plug that ends up damaged can be replaced.

You maybe able to remove it by belting the back of the bell, but you'll likely damage other parts of the diff in the process.

[nicrizz]

That's a unique way, thanks - was this on a mini? Pulling the diff means pulling the engine and I really don't want to have to do that again because of a blummin gasket

Yes it was on a mini, no matter what I tried I couldn’t get the joint to pop.
It was attached to a quaife diff and I didn’t trust myself to cut it off.

Sometimes the long way is the easy way

[amsgw]

Ah I know nicrizz I'm just on an exceptionally short deadline and starting to lose hope!

Spider if I'm understanding you correctly,that would leave the tail of the pot on the splines but reveal the circlip which you then remove before retracting what is now essentially a collar..? Don't suppose you have any photos, I'm struggling to wrap my head around it but this sounds like it might be the best route!

[Spider]

Spider if I'm understanding you correctly,that would leave the tail of the pot on the splines but reveal the circlip

 

Sadly, no, this doesn't reveal the C Clip - not until you get the Bell of the joint off and if it has jammed in the way I think it has, then regardless of what method you end up using, you'll be shearing the clip into a few pieces.

The Plug I have referred to above, in the centre of the joint, it's similar to a freeze plug.