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Do I Have To Buy A Door Skin Folding Tool


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#1 CBJ805T

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 11:55 AM

Hi All, 

 

When folding the return on the A-Panel and door skins, do I have to spend £90 on the correct tool? 

 

I've been searching for a 2nd hand one, but can't find one and I'm just asking where there are any other options before I spend out on the tool 

 

thanks 

 

Chris 



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 12:58 PM

Looked in the FAQs ?

https://www.theminif...m/124-exterior/



#3 stuart bowes

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 01:24 PM

you will probably need to get the fold started with a little hammering anyway. once you have the A panel tacked in place at the top and bottom

 

after that it's not out of the realms of possibility to use some pipe grips with a couple of bits of wood or plastic or something just to protect the panel as you work your way along

 

you need fairly long ish arms on it though, even the right tool is a bit of graft to be honest (not 'hard' as such just not easy to keep doing over and over again)



#4 Gaz66

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 02:04 PM

To be fair I'm dreading this myself.
I've got some alloy door skins which I have visions of turning into a smashed in mess 😁

Edited by Gaz66, 29 September 2025 - 02:04 PM.


#5 sonikk4

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 08:11 PM

In a word NO. I use a panel beating hammer and dolly for the majority of the A panel and then after that i use a couple of pieces of stainless steel strips and vice grips.

 

Yes i also have a folding tool and yes it works BUT it also leaves marks, so not ideal.

 

Now for door skins i only use a panel beating hammer and dolly, various dollies as you need flat and curved. Right at the top of the skins i use a pointed style hammer and very carefully dress the flange over. Occasionally i will revert to the pieces of stainless and vice grips.

 

For the alloy door skin i would just be using a hammer and dolly. On the dolly face use some masking tape to minimise any marks. You will get some on the folded lip from the hammer face but take your time and gently apply. When you have a nice crisp fold a quick go over with a DA will deal with most if not all marks if any.



#6 Cooperman

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 08:19 PM

It is possible to fit new skins without the clinching tool. The best way is to initially bond the skin onto the frame using 'Tiger Seal' or equivalent. Then, once the adhesive has cured, it is easier to tap over the flange onto the inside of the frame. Finally do the welding at the top edges and linish back.

When fitting aluminium skins the best thing is to position the skin, then lightly heat the aluminium to make for easier flanging over. The biggest problem with aluminium is the clamping of aluminium onto steel and the consequent electrolytic action in the longer term. But since ally skins are really only used for competition, it probably doesn't matter.



#7 Gaz66

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Posted 29 September 2025 - 09:25 PM

Some good advice here 👍
With the alloy skins what is the alternative to the spot welds?

#8 68+86auto

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Posted 30 September 2025 - 04:19 AM

A combination of panel beating hammers, dollies and locking pliers will get it done. In fact you can't do it without these even with the "correct" tool.



#9 Cooperman

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Posted 30 September 2025 - 12:58 PM

Some good advice here
With the alloy skins what is the alternative to the spot welds?

 

Any good structural adhesive. Araldite works well as does 'Tiger Seal' or 'JB Weld'. 






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