16 replies to this topic

[TheYoungestGary]

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone can give me some advice for a very very annoying oil leak which seems to be getting worse on my ‘84 sprite.

It appears oil is leaking from the inner cv joint, from the area where it connects, so maybe a o ring has possibly perfished? It seems to be getting worse after the car has been revved higher.

https://flic.kr/p/2scbTHE


Is it just a case of replacing some kind of seal.

Any advice would be hugely appreciated as I’m not too sure what to do

Thanks,

TheYoungestGary

[TheYoungestGary]

Sorry, ‘94 sprite I mean

[TheYoungestGary]

Just in case it matters, I recently did an oil change on the car, and have driven it a few times since, but had to put the car up on ramps and after revving it quite high to get it up the ramps, I noticed oil leaking quite a lot from that spot

Edited by TheYoungestGary, 10 May 2026 - 09:52 AM.

[SKIDDERWOLF]

unless its dribbling down from higher up on the block (Rocker cover or Tappet chest covers) it ooks to be from the driveshaft output shaft seal, Straightforward to change but obviously requires the shaft to be removed. I would check the pot joint ground diameter as this can also wear through contact with the output shaft seal lip and the resulting groove will make a good seal difficult. This ground diameter also provides a running fit on the bronze bush in the diff side covers again any wear here will increase movement and make a oil tight seal difficult.

 

Out of interest what grade oil did you use? could it be that that a thinner grade oil has been used during the change? 

 

i would also check for any blocked Engine breathers which wont be helping through blowby pressurisation.

Edited by SKIDDERWOLF, 10 May 2026 - 11:40 AM.

[TheYoungestGary]

Hi mate

Used 20w50 from mini spares

[TheYoungestGary]

And doesn’t appear to be dripping from anywhere else I don’t think

[mbolt998]

There's a seal where the driveshaft comes out of the differential that looks like it's gone. They're made of some kind of plasticky rubber with a sort of spring inside them. Both of mine had gone completely brittle over time and thus were not sealing any more.

 

A very cheap replacement but quite a bit of disassembly to get there. A good opportunity to replace the other suspension bushings and CV boots while you have it all apart.

[lsto]

https://www.minispar...-shaft-oil-seal
Replace the seal and see how you go. Should be a quick job for a local garage or if your handy with the spanners give it a go.

[TheYoungestGary]

Okay sounds good, thanks all. Im up for giving it a go, do you reckon it can be done on the drive with standard tools?

[Shooter63]

If you unbolt the brake caliper off the hub and hang it out the way, disconnect the top and bottom ball joints off the suspension arms, that should give you enough lateral movement to release the inner CV to get to the side plate where the oil seal is, there is a tool that releases the inner CV that Minispares sell which makes releasing the inner CV easy, Animals tend to use big screwdrivers. The inner CV is held in place by a C clip, one of Minispares exploded drawings will show you.

 

Shooter

[TheYoungestGary]

Cheers mate. I fear this may be a bit over my head. I will probably have to take it to a garage to do!

[Aridgerunner]

From my perspective after doing this with engine out of the car I can honestly say doing it in the car would cause me to lose my temper several times. Once you get the pot joint out (which can be a real bugger) you then remove the housing with the seal in it. There are very thin metal shims there and getting those back in place while laying on your back is another nightmare.

Unless you have access to a lift and a lot patience I think taking it to a garage is your best bet.

Having said that, if the leak is not too bad you can drive it the way it is and park over a piece cardboard. Check your oil before going on a drive. Adding oil is easy.

[Spider]

I've replaced lots of these over the year. I just pop the Pot Joint off, then pry the seal out and fit the new seal in. Be sure to put grease between the lips of the seal (it should have double lips). Some sealant on the OD is also a good idea and the right sealant can aid with fitting. To further aid with fitting, if you find a big socket that closely matches the size of the seal, then put a long extension bar on it, you can come in through the Drive Shaft Window in the subframe, a few taps with a mallet and it should be in. Be aware, iOil will come out once you remove the Pot Joint, it's possibly best to drain the oil first, though I just jack up that side of the car nice and high.

[TheYoungestGary]

Thanks guys. I imagine I will probably just take it to the garage after I finish some work I am currently doing on it. Annoyingly I have just changed the oil and sounds like it will need to be drained again.

It did leak from that spot before, but it only leaks when stationary and I rev the engine hard, which is very strange. I took the car out for a 40 min drive the other day, and no leak after that. So no idea why it’s only when the car is stationary?

[mbolt998]

Thanks guys. I imagine I will probably just take it to the garage after I finish some work I am currently doing on it. Annoyingly I have just changed the oil and sounds like it will need to be drained again.

It did leak from that spot before, but it only leaks when stationary and I rev the engine hard, which is very strange. I took the car out for a 40 min drive the other day, and no leak after that. So no idea why it’s only when the car is stationary?

Don't rev the engine hard when stationary. How do you know it wasn't leaking when you were driving it? The oil might have just blown away somewhere.