8 replies to this topic

[Kamil]

Hello

 

General info : 1972 Austin Clubman, 998

 

 

I got a few questions here:

 

Q1. Is this engiine steady standard?

 

Pic1.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 154213.png   453.71K   4 downloads

 

Q2. What is this red bracket? Is it a bracket from an old engine steady? this is on the clutch side of the car, and car is left hand drive.

 

Pic2.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 153936.png   482.93K   3 downloads

 

Q3. Here is a pic of my old, cut enginesteady. I am looking for a new one but this one that shuld be for 998 but it says ti attaches on the bulkhead where the heater hoses go thru. But my heater hoses are on the other side of the bulkhead.

https://www.minispar...er-850-998-1098

Enyone can send me link to the steady i need to buy?

 

Q4. How do i acces those steady blots from the back for this mount to take it off?

 

Q5. What is the metal tube on the left from the cut enginesteady?

 

Pic3.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 153901.png   520.6K   0 downloads

 

Q6. What is the dirty white wire going to the engineblock?

 

Pic4.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 153811.png   514.7K   1 downloads

 

Q7. I assume this is ok? Car drives fine. Why is this plugged off?

 

Pic5.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 153924.png   361.46K   1 downloads

 

Q8. Is this plug on the brake splitterthing some kind of sensor? shuld something be be plugged in?  Is this standard?

 

Pic6.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 154012.png   514.41K   1 downloads

 

Q9. How many steadys shuld there be on this car? When i look for parts, i see engine steadys, upper, lower, clutchsteadys. Also 2 enginemounts, right?

Also some of them are called "1broken bolt", "2broken bolt", "with breather", "without breather". Im new to this and the steadys are very confusing to me.

 

Thanks

 

[mab01uk]

Q1. Is this engiine steady standard?

No it looks like the original single standard factory engine steady bracket on the bulkhead (clutch side of car) has broken and someone has replaced it with a pair of (red) non-standard/aftermarket steady bars and brackets.

 

Q2. What is this red bracket? Is it a bracket from an old engine steady? this is on the clutch side of the car, and car is left hand drive.

Yes, the red bracket is part of the original engine steady mounting.

 

Q3. Here is a pic of my old, cut enginesteady. I am looking for a new one but this one that shuld be for 998 but it says ti attaches on the bulkhead where the heater hoses go thru. But my heater hoses are on the other side of the bulkhead.

On a RH drive car the heater hoses swap positions with the Brake & Clutch master cylinders, compared to a LH drive Mini.

Note: A 998cc Minispares aftermarket extra steady bracket (as shown in your link) is different to a 1275cc bracket as the thermostat on the cylinder head is in a slightly different position.

 

Q4. How do i access those steady bolts from the back for this mount to take it off?

From inside the car up underneath the dash panel parcel shelf.

 

Q5. What is the metal tube on the left from the cut engine steady?

One of the engine breathers.

 

Q6. What is the dirty white wire going to the engineblock?

Wire is for the oil pressure warning light switch.

 

Q7. I assume this is ok? Car drives fine. Why is this plugged off?

Vacuum pipe take-off on inlet manifold, usually for a brake servo if fitted but can be blanked off if not needed.

 

Q8. Is this plug on the brake splitterthing some kind of sensor? shuld something be be plugged in?  Is this standard?

Later UK Minis with twin circuit brakes have this valve in link below in that position on the bulkhead:-

https://www.minispar...d-in-engine-bay

 

(Earlier single brake circuit UK Minis had a limiter valve on the rear subframe).

 

As your Mini is LHD Export spec it likely has a different brake system and valve spec.
 

Q9. How many steadys shuld there be on this car? When i look for parts, i see engine steadys, upper, lower, clutchsteadys. Also 2 enginemounts, right?

Also some of them are called "1broken bolt", "2broken bolt", "with breather", "without breather". Im new to this and the steadys are very confusing to me.

What year is your Mini as there were several different arrangements of engine steadies over the years?

Originally early Minis were just one upper engine steady and 2 engine mounts down on the subframe.

Edited by mab01uk, 18 May 2026 - 06:47 PM.

[Kamil]

Its a 1972 austin clubman 998.

 

Thank you for all the answers you have provided. 

 

What year is your Mini as there were several different arrangements of engine steadies over the years?

 

[mab01uk]

A 1972 Austin Clubman 998 should have a remote change gearbox, which has a long alloy casting bolted to the back of the gearbox (inside the front floor tunnel), with a large rubber mount bolted to it under the car in the floor tunnel up behind the gearlever. This remote mounting, the two engine mounts on the subframe and a single upper engine steady bar (on clutch side of engine) was the standard setup for that year of Mini and was quite good if all the rubber mounts were in good condition.

Check the rear remote change rubber mounting is ok as they can split as the rubber ages and cause excessive engine rocking.

GEARBOX EXTENSION REAR MOUNT (REMOTE) :-

https://www.minispar...ar-mount-remote

 

Later Minis from about 1973/74 changed to a rod change gearbox to improve the gearlever feel/shift, however the rod change was a lot less rigid setup when compared to the earlier remote change and so BL introduced various factory arrangements of extra steady bars fitted low down on the front subfame to the gearbox.

Edited by mab01uk, 18 May 2026 - 06:49 PM.

[Kamil]

hmmm

 

I was wondering why my tunel is hacked up but probably thats why. I accualy have a rod change gearbox.

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 204106.png   525.91K   2 downloads

 Skjermbilde 2026-05-18 204444.png   548.23K   1 downloads

 

I do have alot of movement in the engine/gearbox as sometimes i can hear my gearlever or something around there clunking when starting to accelerate.

 

 

Also another question I was thinking of changing the clutch line to New braided one. Wuld you reccomed to buy the long one that goes from clutch master all the way to slave cyl or the short one and keep the copper tubbing?

 

 

A 1972 Austin Clubman 998 should have a remote change gearbox, which has a long alloy casting bolted to the back of the gearbox (inside the front floor tunnel), with a large rubber mount bolted to it behind the gearlever. This remote mounting, the two engine mounts on the subframe and a single upper engine steady bar was the standard setup for that year of Mini and was quite good if all the rubber mounts were in good condition.

Check the rear remote change rubber mounting is ok as they can split as the rubber ages and cause excessive engine rocking.

GEARBOX EXTENSION REAR MOUNT (REMOTE) :-

https://www.minispar...ar-mount-remote

 

Later Minis from about 1973/74 changed to a rod change gearbox to improve the gearlever feel/shift, however the rod change was a lot less rigid setup when compared to the earlier remote change and so BL introduced various factory arrangements of extra steady bars fitted low down on the front subfame to the gearbox.

Edited by Kamil, 18 May 2026 - 06:48 PM.

[mab01uk]

Gearlever area looks like a bit of a bodge job...!

Ideally you need this mounting below from Minispares to help stabilise your rod change conversion, assuming the centre floor tunnel has not been too butchered...

 

ROD CHANGE GEAR LEVER CONVERSION BRACKET (MSSK053)
Kit which enables you to fit a rod change gearbox to an earlier round tunnel:-

https://www.minispar...version-bracket

Edited by mab01uk, 19 May 2026 - 08:43 AM.

[stuart bowes]

good forum this, isn't it :)   

 

possibly a good time to point out it's possible to subscribe on an annual basis, which helps the site but also gives you some discounts in a number of places (https://www.theminif...sive-discounts/)

 

totally optional, if that interests you there is a 'subscriptions' link at the top left of this page

 

good luck with the car and keep posting pics, we all love a build diary or a post about someone doing repairs

[mab01uk]

 

Also another question I was thinking of changing the clutch line to New braided one. Wuld you reccomed to buy the long one that goes from clutch master all the way to slave cyl or the short one and keep the copper tubbing?

 

 

Not sure of the clutch line route on a LHD Mini, but I would probably keep the short one. However the long one should also be ok if you prefer it and can route and secure the braided pipe ok.

Others with LHD Minis may be able to recommend on this better from their own experience of LHD Minis.

Edited by mab01uk, 19 May 2026 - 10:54 AM.

[mab01uk]

It was the later Rod change gearbox Minis that had the additional factory fitted engine steady bars, low down on the front subframe, which probably explains why your earlier Mini has had several aftermarket upper engine steadies fitted, in an attempt to try to stop excessive engine rocking movement, when the rod change unit was fitted.

Edited by mab01uk, 19 May 2026 - 09:05 PM.