Starting My Mini Up
Posted 05 June 2026 - 04:20 PM
I have a similar issue with my -88 to this post: https://www.theminif...ving-from-stop/
When I let go of the clutch and press the throttle there's a clunk.
I have looked through the engine bay. MY suspicion is the top steady. I can move it slightly by hand (I don't think it is supposed to?) and the bolt closest to the rear bulkhead is loose (I cannot tighten it). Is my suspicion correct?
Also, I can rock the engine by hand. I do not believe this is normal. It can't be. Can it?
Super Mini Mad
Posted 05 June 2026 - 09:52 PM
It does sound like the upper engine steady - near clutch end. I have had an adjustable one out of a car for about 12 months - went to refit yesterday and crumble crumble of rubber.
The long bolt doesn't have to be tight tight - it just locates the back of the arm - With the exhaust headers in place / and the slave cylinder nearby - it can be a pain to fasten on the bottom. Also check the engine steady 'bar / bracket on the end of the block - the bolts here have been known to sheer ( and often remain in the block). The aftermarket repair kits ( with different versions depending on what is left inside the block) do a great job - but are a pain to fit in a tight space
Starting My Mini Up
Posted 05 June 2026 - 10:49 PM
It is definitely the top steady. I went to feel the loose bolt and I could pull it out so it has sheered at the engine block. It is basically flush with the engine block so I'll try a screw extractor and put a new bolt in. The rubber on the arm itself seems to be fine.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 06 June 2026 - 06:49 AM
It is definitely the top steady. I went to feel the loose bolt and I could pull it out so it has sheered at the engine block. It is basically flush with the engine block so I'll try a screw extractor and put a new bolt in. The rubber on the arm itself seems to be fine.
If you're dismantling the steady and the bushes have been on the car a while I'd take the opportunity to renew them if they are easily available where you are. It's fairly easy to do and you'll have all bases covered.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 June 2026 - 09:11 AM
It is definitely the top steady. I went to feel the loose bolt and I could pull it out so it has sheered at the engine block. It is basically flush with the engine block so I'll try a screw extractor and put a new bolt in. The rubber on the arm itself seems to be fine.
If you can't easily get the sheared bolt out the block, Somerford Mini sell various repair kits as listed below:-
Engine Mountings (with diagrams):
https://www.somerfor...0_100769_100796
Broken Steady Kits
"What's even more frustrating than worn out upper steady bar bushes is one or both of the mounting bolts shearing off in the cylinder block when you try to replace
them! Sometimes one or both block bolts have even been sheared beforehand by the shock caused by ineffective bushes. Either way, a classic situation of a five
minute job turning into a major exercise can result if engineering workshop techniques or tools such as 'easy-outs' are required to remove the remainder of the bolt(s).
Somerford Mini can supply an easy-to-fit mounting bracket assembly which bypasses the use of the offending engine block bolt holes.
The four broken steady kits provide alternatives for use on cylinder blocks where either the longer bolt only or both bolts have broken, on engines without or with
a crankcase breather on the flywheel housing (the latter for 1275cc engines from 1969 on). Each kit includes an adaptor bracket, plus the bar retaining bracket
with appropriate bolts and washers."
Ill. No. Part No. Description Qty. Rqd. Remarks
147 ESK003 BROKEN STEADY KIT, for sheared longer bolt 1 Engines without flywheel housing breather. All models 1959-69; not 1275cc 1969 on.
ESK004 BROKEN STEADY KIT, for two sheared bolts 1 Engines without flywheel housing breather. All models 1959-69; not 1275cc 1969 on.
ESK006 BROKEN STEADY KIT, for sheared longer bolt 1 Engines with flywheel housing breather. 1275cc 1969 on.
ESK005 BROKEN STEADY KIT, for two sheared bolts 1 Engines with flywheel housing breather. 1275cc 1969 on.
Edited by mab01uk, 06 June 2026 - 09:16 AM.
Super Mini Mad
Posted 06 June 2026 - 10:17 AM
While at a kit-car show recently, I came across a set of left-handed drills. Could be just the thing for this - combination of the heat and the torque of drilling would probably have it out.
There are stud-removers (left-handed tapered thread things - look a bit like backwards threaded taps) but the cheap ones I've bought, at least, have always been horribly brittle.
Starting My Mini Up
Posted 06 June 2026 - 10:35 AM
Thank you all! I will try to extract the bolt first (fingers crossed). Otherwise I'll try your methods. Might also invest in this kit: https://www.minispar...hand-drive-1275 just to be safe in case of future disasters.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 06 June 2026 - 08:24 PM
Starting My Mini Up
Posted 10 June 2026 - 08:05 AM
Just for future reference, does anyone have a picture of the ENGINE STABILISER KIT LEFT HAND DRIVE 1275 - Mini Spares installed properly?
One Carb Or Two?
Posted Yesterday, 09:53 PM
“Easy-Out” are fine until you snap one in the hole. Been there, done that!
The best option is to drill out the broken bolt and fit a HeliCoil. However, access to do this is poor with the engine in the car.
Best option is to buy one of the temporary repair kits and wait until the engine is out for another reason and do the job correctly.
Also been there done that on my first mini - had to get the engine out and take the block to get the bolt and Eezi-out spark eroded and the block welded (nice work on cast iron!) and re-tapped - it was a good engine that I wanted to save.
Of course when the bolt snapped on my current mini (in the icon) I knew there was the stabiliser "saver" bracket so just used one of those (still on there after 22 years...)
Edited by mini-mad-mark, Yesterday, 09:53 PM.
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
