15 replies to this topic

[Mito]

I fitted a filter king a few years ago to the mini and I'm assuming I checked the pressure at the time and was happy with it...

 

I've just come to check the pressure again today and I couldn't get a reading when the car was running. After searching around on the internet for videos on seeing up the filter king, I stumbled upon an Australian video that indicated I had the inlet and outlets the wrong way round. 

 

The instructions I received with the filter king had the outlet pipe pointing upwards, so I'm not entirely convinced that they were accurate.

 

https://youtu.be/ob0...eIENWF635AsZ5hV

 

Following this I've switched the pipes around and now get a consistent reading with the car running

 

 1000040394.jpg   35.36K   3 downloads

 

As I understand it, some things in Australia go the other way round  , so can anyone confirm that the inlet is the pipe that points downwards and the outlet is horizontal?

Edited by Mito, 27 July 2026 - 08:09 PM.

[PACINO]

Hi! I ran that filter for several years. I bought it from Minispares, and they stock the replacement parts too. I eventually took it off and sold it.
Now, since I’m not sure my twin HS2 carb setup is getting enough fuel, I want to buy another Filter King—but one with a gauge—just to be certain.
That way, I can monitor the flow at all times.

https://i.ibb.co/sp4...z/s-l400-3.webp

By the way Mito, I was looking at another thread where you showed the great bodywork you did on the car. I’d like to know if you could fabricate some corner sections like that. The roof is in pretty bad shape where water collects, and I need to repair it. If you could make them for me, I’d buy them and weld them on myself



Kind regards!
Luis

Edited by PACINO, 28 July 2026 - 12:23 AM.

[Spider]

If you look under the cast bosses, they have IN and OUT cast in to them.

 

 

 Filter King - Outlet.JPG   68.15K   0 downloads

[Mito]

It is stamped out underneath on the horizontal outlet. That confirms I've had the fuel pipes on the wrong way around for the last 4-5 years.

 

@luis my fabrication skills are not that great. I would try to source a second hand roof and cut the parts out of that or just ask for the corners you require.

[Ethel]

To repair those corners I'd get a load of corrugated cardboard to build up a sort of  3D  contour map female image. Copy that to a former carved out of MDF -potentially also built up in layers, if you can bolt/clamp them together solidly enough. Flex your new tin across it on the line of least resistance & get tapping to  mould it to the rest of the curves. You can use a dolly, old brake disc or 2nd  hammer head if it needs more oomph than the MDF will stand to squeeze the bowl in to it. Leave the return to flat flange  in the gutter til last, that'll  be all stretching & could be achieved by gradually working along the fold line with pliers.

[mccarefree]

Hi folks.

 

I'm just recommissioning my modified Tahiti. It's running but I'm chasing a misfire, which I think I've tracked down to a dodgy HT lead (annoyingly, the leads on there are, or were, good Lumenition silicon and look fine!). However, during my own recommissioning I have been reading a lot about fuel filters and pressure regulators. Fitting a filter is obviously good practice but do I need a regulator with a mechanical pump? The engine is a 1275 developing 82bhp (when on song) through a single HIF44.

 

Thanks for thoughts. 

[Mito]

If you've got the correct mechanical pump fitted, then you should be okay. There are a number of different mechanical pumps though, so check to make sure it is the correct one. Acdodd  has a video on YouTube about it

[68+86auto]

Hi folks.

 

I'm just recommissioning my modified Tahiti. It's running but I'm chasing a misfire, which I think I've tracked down to a dodgy HT lead (annoyingly, the leads on there are, or were, good Lumenition silicon and look fine!). However, during my own recommissioning I have been reading a lot about fuel filters and pressure regulators. Fitting a filter is obviously good practice but do I need a regulator with a mechanical pump? The engine is a 1275 developing 82bhp (when on song) through a single HIF44.

 

Thanks for thoughts. 

 

With the correct pump, you don't need a regulator and I wouldn't recommend one. I recommend testing the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct. I have seen the wrong springs supplied in rebuild kits causing too high pressure.

[Spider]

 

Hi folks.

 

I'm just recommissioning my modified Tahiti. It's running but I'm chasing a misfire, which I think I've tracked down to a dodgy HT lead (annoyingly, the leads on there are, or were, good Lumenition silicon and look fine!). However, during my own recommissioning I have been reading a lot about fuel filters and pressure regulators. Fitting a filter is obviously good practice but do I need a regulator with a mechanical pump? The engine is a 1275 developing 82bhp (when on song) through a single HIF44.

 

Thanks for thoughts. 

 

With the correct pump, you don't need a regulator and I wouldn't recommend one. I recommend testing the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct. I have seen the wrong springs supplied in rebuild kits causing too high pressure.

 

 

I've come across a lot of mechanical pumps over the last few years that have had quite high pressure - up to 7 PSI.

[mccarefree]

Many thanks (Ladies and) Gents for your advice. The fuel pump is the OEM unit and has always worked ok though it was designed for a 50bhp, not an 80+bhp motor. I'll leave it alone but add a filter when I can get to it. Thanks again - you've probably saved me £80+

 

Regards

 

Martin

[PACINO]

It is stamped out underneath on the horizontal outlet. That confirms I've had the fuel pipes on the wrong way around for the last 4-5 years.
 
@luis my fabrication skills are not that great. I would try to source a second hand roof and cut the parts out of that or just ask for the corners you require.

Yes. That is one of the paths I'm following.
Thanks, Mito!

[PACINO]

To repair those corners I'd get a load of corrugated cardboard to build up a sort of  3D  contour map female image. Copy that to a former carved out of MDF -potentially also built up in layers, if you can bolt/clamp them together solidly enough. Flex your new tin across it on the line of least resistance & get tapping to  mould it to the rest of the curves. You can use a dolly, old brake disc or 2nd  hammer head if it needs more oomph than the MDF will stand to squeeze the bowl in to it. Leave the return to flat flange  in the gutter til last, that'll  be all stretching & could be achieved by gradually working along the fold line with pliers.

Thank you very much, Ethel. It is always a pleasure to read your words.

[Earwax]

To Mccarefree --  probably you already know - but be careful of having too many  filters inline.  Not sure what is 'standard' when using the mech pump - but for electric "push" pumps often a coarse pre-filter close to the fuel tank  and then a normal looking one either at the back or in the engine bay ,,,,,,,,,     The pre filter ( just to peek at )is part FPA906 on Minispares

[Ethel]

MDF isn't particularly strong, but it is harder & denser than a lot of timber. It's most dense on its surface so a multilayer laminate should be fine, also easier to shape, provided you back or box it in to prevent the layers separating & sliding

[Spider]

There was a chap who 3D printed in a plastic some sheet metal pressing dies. He was hoping to get only 3 or 4 pressings from them, but ended up being able to do something like 100 before the dies had died. It was a somewhat complex and detailed die too.

For something like these, because the pressings are more extreme, be the dies made in MDF or 3D printed perhaps 2 sets of dies might be in order, first set to take the pressing a wee bit over 'halfway' and the second set to the finished shape. You'll also find the finished product will come out better formed.