16 replies to this topic

[mccarefree]

Morning, folks.

 

1994 1275 Tahiti (last of the carb cars). I have a Maniflow cast alloy inlet manifold with inlet/outlet spigots for plumbing into the hot water hoses. I've never done it but have heard quite a lot recently about the advantages. My issue with doing it is that it seems that I should redirect the hot water hose attached to the heater controller to one side of the manifold then a new hose from the opposite side back to the heater circuit. My issue question is that the ID of the heater hose is 5/8" whereas the spigots on the manifold are 1/2". Is there a recognised way of sorting out this difference or even some sort of kit designed for the purpose? Thanks for anyone's thoughts.

 

Ps. Great day at Brands yesterday - Many of you must habe been there!

[Rubbershorts]

Do you have a picture of your current set up. Is it the floating in-line heater valve or the take off from the head? Daz.

[mccarefree]

Thanks for reply. It's the later 'floating' heater calve. Current photos are too big to upload!

 

 

[Rubbershorts]

Thanks for reply. It's the later 'floating' heater calve. Current photos are too big to upload!

Regarding the photos. You need to reduce their size. I run mine through the Instagram tool (Instasize). This saves a reduced copy of the original which you can then post on here.

 

Attached is a picture of how I've done my pipework. This is the version where you can use your heater independently, without cutting the flow to the manifold. My pipes have been changed to the Minispares silicone hoses, but I think all the diameters are the same as the original. Where the ones disappear into the bulk head I've used a reducer joint to take account of the 5/8 and 1/2" difference. The joints are in the car near the heater to neaten up the engine bay. 

 

https://www.minispar...-or-water-pipes

 

The T joints were purchased from Ebay.

 

Hope this helps. Daz.

Attached Files

•  Pipes.jpg   38.6K   21 downloads

[mccarefree]

Many thanks for both. I'm a dinosaur that doesn't use 'Insta' but perhaps it's time!

 

Re the tech stuff - lovely clear photo, thanks; I'll see if I can apply it to my set up. I understand that the flow through the manifold depends on where you T off the supply relative to the heater valve.

 

Cheers

[mccarefree]

So, Daz - You T'd out of one heater hose then back into the other?

[Rubbershorts]

Many thanks for both. I'm a dinosaur that doesn't use 'Insta' but perhaps it's time!

 

Re the tech stuff - lovely clear photo, thanks; I'll see if I can apply it to my set up. I understand that the flow through the manifold depends on where you T off the supply relative to the heater valve.

 

Cheers

If you have whatsap you can send yourself the image through that and I believe that also reduces it enough.

[mccarefree]

Thanks for the WhatsApp hin t. I'll remember that!

[Rubbershorts]

So, Daz - You T'd out of one heater hose then back into the other?

Yes, and if you look at the picture, I had to tuck the heater valve away underneath the pipework for all the joints to work properly. I've had a few goes at this and this is the neatest solution by far. 

[Rubbershorts]

 

Thanks for reply. It's the later 'floating' heater calve. Current photos are too big to upload!

Regarding the photos. You need to reduce their size. I run mine through the Instagram tool (Instasize). This saves a reduced copy of the original which you can then post on here.

 

Attached is a picture of how I've done my pipework. This is the version where you can use your heater independently, without cutting the flow to the manifold. My pipes have been changed to the Minispares silicone hoses, but I think all the diameters are the same as the original. Where the ones disappear into the bulk head I've used a reducer joint to take account of the 5/8 and 1/2" difference. The joints are in the car near the heater to neaten up the engine bay. 

 

https://www.minispar...-or-water-pipes

 

The T joints were purchased from Ebay.

 

Hope this helps. Daz.

 

I've just noticed something. The pipe that goes from the thermostat housing to the first T joint. I've had to force that section onto the thermostat housing as it isn't the correct diameter. You will probably need a stepped T for that first one if using your original piping. You could just buy a length of black silicone hose, use a regular T,  and force it like I did. I had to make sure the housing in-let was sanded nice and smooth, then applied a little lube and pushed (....said the vicar to the blah, blah,blah). Daz.

[Ethel]

The water comes out of the head & returns via the bottom  hose. You'll want the valve between the T & the heater in either hose. An alternative would be to get a crossover valve that switches flow between the manifold & heater. Several other car models have them, there's plenty for London Taxis on Ebay.

 

Rover did it much like Daz, so there's a bottom hose with 2 return 5/8 pipes, they also used a restricter to prevent the manifold hogging all the flow.

[mccarefree]

Thanks everybody. I have T-pieces and new hose on order. I should be able to work it out from information provided.

Regards. Martin

[mccarefree]

Thanks everyone for suggestions and advice. I've got it together so we'll wait and see if I have done it right.

 

Regards

 

Martin

[Ethel]

If needs  be you can  tweak it to balance flow by clamping a hose, then make an educated guess for a restrictor.

[Rubbershorts]

If needs  be you can  tweak it to balance flow by clamping a hose, then make an educated guess for a restrictor.

Hi Ethel, what would a hose restrictor look like then? And I'm presuming they come in different flow rates? Mines been running as intended as fitted as above, but I haven't had any need to use the heater since I fitted it. That's probably going to change this weekend (Minis in the Mountains in the lashing rain) so I'll probably find out if the manifold hogs the hot water as you suggested it might. Daz.