Mark 1 Clutch Arm Setting
#1
Posted Yesterday, 01:13 PM
I've read the haynes and they talk about pulling out the arm until free movement is taken up and then setting the stop. When I pull the arm I'm clearly stretching the cylinder, and then if under clearance of 0.5mm it will spring back against the stop. Is this correct? To me it seems that the plates are sitting very close and I'm not getting enough stroke. Throwout is set with the clutch depressed as advised.
Stuck in how to move the bite point up?
#2
Posted Yesterday, 01:49 PM
What do you mean by stretching the cylinder? You can’t.
vertical? Rarely.
Don’t forget to remove the spring.
#3
Posted Yesterday, 05:03 PM
Can I suggest setting the stop by first removing the spring, then pull the arm out by hand, it will only need the lightest touch, wind the adjustment bolt head (the one that takes the 7/16" spanner) out until it touches the arm, then wind it back 1/4 turn and lock it off at that. Replace the spring.
If that doesn't do it, then there's other issues.
#4
Posted Yesterday, 07:41 PM
Thanks a lot
#5
Posted Today, 08:25 AM
Silly point, but you are sure there is no air in the hydraulics and the master and slave cylinder seals are fine? You can check the slave by pulling back the boot to see if dry and look up under the dash with a torch to see if the master cylinder has leaked at all.
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