56 replies to this topic

[markrally]

good progress but trust me you wont need power steering.

if you carry on adding anymore weight it will be very slow aswell

[Jammy]

The blocked up petrol filler neck looks very neatly done indeed! I really want to learn lead loading, but can't get the oxy stuff needed!

[Custom_Minis]

Anybody else having problems accessing the web site?

[Renessy]

good progress but trust me you wont need power steering.

if you carry on adding anymore weight it will be very slow aswell

I know he's going to be running on 15 inch wheels. maybe that's why he is installing the power steering....

Het won't be any slower with some extra weight either.... At least not afther his turbo/compressor added!

[Poly_Patje]

Anybody else having problems accessing the web site?

Hey Custom Minis, which provider do you use? I had a lot of problems with spam text about pills and lots of other unwanted text as comment on the photoalbum and since then I blocked some global addresses. The biggest one is RR.com (Road Runner high speed online) which is hosting internet in the States.

Please send me an PM with some info so I can check it out to let you access the website.


Patrick.

[Poly_Patje]

@ Jammy: I just use a normal hobby gasburner that looks like the one on the picture below:



You do not need an Oxy burner for lead loading. You only need low temps and nothing that get above 500 degrees Celcius.


@Mark & Renessy:
Renessy is right. The mini will be running on 15" wheels with 195/45 or even 215/40 tires, then steering can get heavy with these tires. And the big supprise is that I am going to build a compressor on the busa engine so then it will have lots of torque and BHPs.

[Jammy]

Interesting you say that Poly Potje. I bought a lead loading kit from Frost Restoration, but thought I need Oxy stuff. Is that Propane or Butane?

[Poly_Patje]

Interesting you say that Poly Potje. I bought a lead loading kit from Frost Restoration, but thought I need Oxy stuff. Is that Propane or Butane?

Hey Jammy, that does not make a difference if you use propane or butane.

Using butane when the temperature is below 0 °C, then there will not be any gas because the boiling point of butane is at -0.5 °C and then it vaporizes. The boiling temp of propane is at -42 °C and that makes it usable when it is freezing. The second thing is gas pressure. When the environment temp is at 15 °C, then propane will be at 6.5 bar and butane 1.7 bar.

With these things in mind you can make a choice. If you are working in an environment with normal temperature conditions (above 0 °C), then you can use butane. The second thing you have to look at is the amount of heat you need for your job. The amount of mixed air/gas will produce a certain amount of heat and when there is more pressure and you use a high temp torch, more fuel can be used that result in higher temps.

Here in the Netherlands, these small gas burners are supplied with propane bottles. I experienced when shaking the bottle, the flame gets uncontrollable because more liquid propane will evaporate. For lead loading large areas the easiest way is using a large camping bottle and a hand torch. For small areas a small burner will be ok.

For lead loading, you do not need high temps so I think that butane can be used as well.

[Poly_Patje]

It is a long time ago, but I am still working on the Mini.

The arches are hand made from 1mm steel plate (this was a bit difficult, even to make both sides for front and rear identical),
 normal_IMG_2213.jpg   29.77K   107 downloads

Added the TTS dry-sump system to the busa engine.
 normal_IMG_2305.jpg   30.86K   57 downloads

Made some adapter/spacers and change the bolt-pattern from 4x4" to 4x100mm (front is 48mm and rear is 52mm).
 normal_IMG_2366.jpg   19.19K   53 downloads

Made my own wiring-loom from scratch. There was no fault in it and the engine started directly after turning the key.
 normal_IMG_2378.jpg   28.17K   25 downloads

Added full stainless Goodridge oil-lines with thermostat and oil-catch can.
 normal_IMG_2411.jpg   32.1K   57 downloads  normal_IMG_2412.jpg   29.48K   26 downloads

Meanwhile a stainless 2.5" exhaust system is made. The header had to wait because there was no money left. I do not want to spoil it by going for less quality. Because of the regulations it must have a cat. So I added a 400cpi metalcat (race cat) to do the job, this one is made for at least 300hp).
 normal_IMG_2429.jpg   30.31K   28 downloads  normal_IMG_2456.jpg   27.59K   77 downloads

Ok, now just some eye-candy. Replace all black hoses for nice looking blue vac. hoses.
 normal_IMG_2470.jpg   35.69K   43 downloads

Added a simple removable frame in the rear the make a bit stiffer.
 normal_IMG_2907.jpg   29.46K   72 downloads

Now I am making slow process because I am waiting for the rotors and brackets to fit my Subaru Impreza WRX 6-pot calipers.
 normal_IMG_2926.jpg   24.51K   33 downloads  normal_IMG_2936.jpg   23.86K   44 downloads

 normal_IMG_2937.jpg   23.29K   26 downloads  normal_IMG_2945.jpg   24.37K   22 downloads

 normal_IMG_2948.jpg   22.98K   25 downloads

[Poly_Patje]

Here are some pictures of the current progress.
I have done lead-loading on the front arches, the solid Mini grill is put into place and finished and the fibreglass bootlid is modified to fit properly.

 normal_IMG_4137.jpg   15.38K   28 downloads  normal_IMG_4176.jpg   20.34K   20 downloads

 normal_IMG_4234.jpg   30.47K   20 downloads  normal_IMG_4235.jpg   30.55K   29 downloads

Next project is finding a way to fasten the bonnet and bootlid without anything on the outside, so it gets a smooth finish. I also want some kind of hinges on the inside and locks to keep the bonnet and/or bootlid a bit open to let the hot air out when needed. Upto now I have not found a proper solution.

Edited by Poly_Patje, 29 September 2008 - 09:53 AM.

[Ethel]

Surely standard car door latches would do the job? Many vans have compact latches on the rear doors.

[Poly_Patje]

After working too many hours on the project, the car finally started last week.
After not using the engine for 362 days, it fired up without any problems!

Click here for hearing the engine start (divx movie).

Next things to do before taking her out for a spin are:
- finishing bulkhead;
- making the dashboard;
- putting the seats and belts back in;
- bleeding the brakes;
- putting the chain on.....

[jaapio1984]

After working too many hours on the project, the car finally started last week.
After not using the engine for 362 days, it fired up without any problems!

Click here for hearing the engine start (divx movie).

Next things to do before taking her out for a spin are:
- finishing bulkhead;
- making the dashboard;
- putting the seats and belts back in;
- bleeding the brakes;
- putting the chain on.....

do you also have some new pics

Jaapio

[Renessy]

Pat,

I think I was one of the first to hear that you had your mini running..... Awesome! Just awesome!

Hope you can get it on the road fast so we can go for a spin.

Congrats and see you soon!

René








Now I really have to hustle to get mine running soon....

[Poly_Patje]

Ok, the Mini is getting finished. Paint job is done (30+ degrees during many days of preparing before painting (sanding)).

This is an image of the current situation:
 IMG_5367.jpg   592.73K   62 downloads

What is left to be finished:
- Covering complete bulkhead with isolation material;
- Modifying the loom near the ECU in such way, that I am able to reprogram the ECU for using a turbo;
- Redesigning steering because there is to much 'free' movement without any response to the wheels when driving;
- Adding all self-made devices for measuring every engine condition (temps, speed, etc) for tuning and logging;
- Finishing the dashboard in carbon fiber;
- The last thing is putting the rear and side windows in and closing the mini...

So, it looks like a short list, but time is needed to fully finish it. After finishing I can go the dutch RDW again for getting it 'street-legal'.