19 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi All
I have a restored Morris Cooper 998, Mk1. While it has been superbly put together, the real concern I have always had, is that the radiator looks way too close to the fan.

This would then mean it is impossible to change a broken fan belt. The fan is the old type 16 blade.

My own idea of how to correct this problem would be to elongate the radiator cowl holes, or radiator bracket holes to enable the radiator to be positioned, say 5mm further away from the fan.

I however dont think i have enough room toward the inner left wing.

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you get around it?
What is the correct spacing between the fan and radiator?

Thanks

[Big_Adam]

bloke gave me a great idea.

Undo the top rad mount the squeese the belt out.

Sorted.

[mk=john]

So, did you have the same problem then? If I undo the topr bracket, then what about the bottom of the fan being too close to the rad? Did this cause a problem for you?
Thanks

[Big_Adam]

Well....I took the long route and took the rad, fan, pulley, head, carb, inlet manifold off (long story)

but a bloke was asking about how to tighten the fan belt and I meantion I could never get one off so he suggested it. Sounds like a good idea as my fan should moves out a fair way,

But I have not tried it yet.

edit

oh, if you take the top ran mount off to move the rad out a bit then the bottom can stay were it is. Acts as a pivot point. So feed the belt round the fan then off, pop on the new and put it all back together.

Edited by Big_Adam, 09 December 2006 - 10:21 PM.

[mini-gti]

exact process i used to change mine just undo the top mount the feed the belt round the fan blades, and hay presto its off

gaz

[mk=john]

Thanks guys
Just to let you know, at the bottom of the fan, it is only about 5mm away from the radiator core.....would your process of undoing the top bracket still work then, I mean, enable the radiator to have enough clearance from the bottom of the fan?

Dont forget, my fan is the old metal 16 blade type.

[starrider]

yeah, i just did mine the same way a few weeks ago. it's still a tight fit and you have to bend the blades just a tad to get the belt between the shroud and blades. just be careful not to break a blade off. hardest part for me was trying to determine if the belt was to tight or to loose. i took the grill out to make it easier. i also had to loosen the top hose just a bit. just take your time and don't try and rush it.

[1984mini25]

I think if I remember correctly that the radiator cowling on the early minis has a notch in the fan side to allow the belt to be pulled through?

[mk=john]

Yes, there is a notch on the upper cowl, but the question here was the distance betweenthe fan blades end the radiator.

I dont think my blades will bend, as they are the old 16 blade type.

The belt is almost new, not causing a concern right now, but I would like to change it to a new one anyway, just to put my mind at rest so I know I can easily do it in a real emergency on the roadside.

Is the fan very close to the radiator on many minis? What is the typical gap?

[Jammy]

Yea, the fan should be pretty close to the radiator. This is to get the best cooling possible.

[mk=john]

Hi
The fan is only about 5mm away from the radiator core, the belt widths normally are over 10mm, with a similar depth. So, thats why I say it looks impossible. So, its this gap normal then?

I cant see that it is, as undoing the top cowl bracket isnt the normal way to change the fan belt!

[Udo]

If you undo the top mount and use the bottom mount as a pivot for the rad the gap between the rad and the fan will increase because of where the pivot point is. Then as stated above there should also be a notch to help

Cheers

[Bam]

Just take the rad out, i ahev had mine in and out 4 times in a day before, it doesnt take long!!!

[dklawson]

"Just take the rad out"

This is a case where the differences between early and later cars are significant. "Just take the rad out" doesn't apply to a Mk1. It's not a two minute job. The way the two-piece cowl is attached, and the way they interfere with the hoses means taking the radiator out is a bit complicated and usually involves bloody knuckles on your hands.

Yes, the belt notch is there on the cowl but if the radiator core has ever been replaced, the fan will likely be closer to the core than BMC originally designed it. Over here, some of the race drivers I know say they take an extra new belt, fold it over double, and use cable ties or duck tape to attach this extra belt to the timing cover. That way, if they ever brake a belt at the track they already have a replacement ready to go without messing with the radiator. While this is OK on a race car, it probably isn't practical on a street machine as the belt would likely dry rot before it's needed.

I've switched to the 6-blade tropical fan. I wondered when installing it if I needed the 1/8" thick spacer between the fan pulley and the water pump flange. I went ahead and used it, but I may leave it out next time. Yes the fan needs to be close to the core to work, but I don't believe it needs to be within 5mm. Ideally, the tips of the fan blades should be just inside the entrance to the cowl regardless of where this positions the fan relative to the radiator.

[mk=john]

Hi
I am not sure if the rad at the moment is to the original BMC spec and dimensions. Is it possible (or wise) to invest in an original (reproduction) radiator which is exactly like the original? Just because this may give a bigger gap between the fan bladeds and radiator.

Thanks