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The Ring Runner 150bhp VVC 'Tro!


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#1 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:21 AM

Hello folks,
Thought it was about time I put a little something up about the 'TRO. I started life as a 1995 Metro K-series 1400mpi Gti in Flame Red with Silverstone Interior, but a couple of years (and owners) ago it was converted to 1800vvc on R65u gearbox by Reyland Motorsport.

This conversion can take two main routes, which I will list simply for your info:

R65u gearbox- this method reatains the metro's OE close ratio gearbox, but requires the flywheel and clutch from a rover 100 (although the slightly larger clutch can be sourced from a rover 216). The 1800cc engine can then be bolted straight on to the R65u gearbox, as the 1800 block is a bored out version of the 1400 (and therefore lighter too!) The whole unit can then be mounted by simply swapping the bottom half of the two metro engine mounts for the 1800 engine mounts. The ecu needs swapping for the relevant 1800cc engine (non vvc, vvc (mems 2, mems 3) or if you're lucky the VHPD lotus elise 190 engine). If you are starting with an MPI model metro then the standard fuel pump is fine.

PG1 gearbox - this method retains the Donor's 1800 OE gearbox, which comes in many forms. This includes the option of A close ratio Torsen ATB (Automatic Torque Biasing) LSD box, not unlike the quafe ATB, that came with the Rover 200 BRM.- For not a lot of money! However the metro has a clutch cable and most decent Pg1 box's are hydraulic, so you either have to convert the metro's clutch pedal to work a hydraulic push rod and reservoir (the same as a mini) or try and find the bits from a cable version PG1 and convert your gearbox to accept a cable. You also have to weld a bracket onto you metro's subframe to accept an extra sump mount or modify an MGF subframe to fit your metro. Which is easier than it sounds because an MGF subframe is a slightly altered Metro subframe in the first place. You will have two marry-up the engine mounts as you do with the r65u but you will also have to weld a cable bracket to the bottom half of your 1800 n/s engine mount. (if you go the cable route that is).
You will also need two gear linkage selector rods from a rover 200 to mate your metro linkage to the Pg1 box. The ecu will obviously need swapping as above with the r65 method.

They did a pretty comprehensive job of bringing the rest of the car up to scratch with spax adjustables with hydrolastic units pumped up to 350 psi with modified (shortened) arms to lower the ride height 35mm at the front and a 55mm at the back. This straightens out the standard metro r100 wonky stance (they always look like they are jacked up at the rear).
Since then it has had a bit of rust replacement - mainly a N/s floor pan. Also the OE air filter has been replaced by a silicone elbow and K&N Filter. The wheels are 14inch compomotives.

Edited by Alburglar, 11 January 2007 - 06:18 PM.


#2 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:23 AM

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#3 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:33 AM

But recently she took a little trip to the ring.
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and she started firing on 3 after a sloppy gear change from 4th to 3rd at 120mph! So I tried a little of this in a field in Germany:
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But she ended coming back like this:
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#4 lew

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:45 AM

my mate has done the same thing but he has a mapable ecu, metro challenge turrets on the wheel arch and spax adjustables all round with mini suspension, it is the fastest metro iv ever been in


looks real nice mate

#5 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:53 AM

She sat on the Drive for ages until I could find the time to look at her. Once the head was off all was clear. Detonation! Bugger-all to do with the missed gear change. There were marks to indicate valve bounce, but they had only just touched the carbon deposit on the pistons and not the actual pistons themselves. Detonation was apprarent due to the cleanliness off the top and bottom face of each piston. The pistons must have been getting really hot, probably due to a lack of fuel at the top end of the revs, and started to burn away the carbon deposits at these sites. Resulting in a bloddy great hole:
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So I've now removed the rest of the engine awaiting a full re-build:
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And cleaned up the R65u box ready for the re-built engine:
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Edited by Alburglar, 11 January 2007 - 12:57 AM.


#6 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 12:56 AM

my mate has done the same thing but he has a mapable ecu, metro challenge turrets on the wheel arch and spax adjustables all round with mini suspension, it is the fastest metro iv ever been in


looks real nice mate


Thanks
Not sure about the mini suspension on a metro but turrets have got to be next on my list when I've finished my mini.

#7 Woody

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 07:17 AM

HI mat , in what will i find a R65u box ?
Fingers crossed it is a rover 400 1.6 , as i have one for spares on my yard !

#8 Pie

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 11:15 AM

WOAH!!!! Michael Palins book is half price!!!

Looking nice and clean there Al, thos epics are bringing back some memories lol.

#9 mighty_mini

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 11:27 AM

Howdy al.

I do like your little metro :goaway: The K-Series is a mighty fine engine indeed. I cant wait to get my little 1.6 in my mini :D


One thing, i might be wrong but i was under the impression that K-series 1.4's were stroked 1.1's and 1.8's were stroked 1.6's... am i not correct? If so, thats ruined my plans for when i rebuild the 1.6 :goaway:

#10 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 06:17 PM

HI mat , in what will i find a R65u box ?
Fingers crossed it is a rover 400 1.6 , as i have one for spares on my yard !


Yeah that'll have one. might have the R65 tho not the r65u, The 'u' being 'uprated'. not alot of difference in it tho. I think it's just closer ratio's in the 'U'.

The numbers are stamped on the side of the box

#11 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 06:26 PM

Howdy al.

I do like your little metro :goaway: The K-Series is a mighty fine engine indeed. I cant wait to get my little 1.6 in my mini :D


One thing, i might be wrong but i was under the impression that K-series 1.4's were stroked 1.1's and 1.8's were stroked 1.6's... am i not correct? If so, thats ruined my plans for when i rebuild the 1.6 :goaway:


That can't be the case for the 1400's the block's look identical to the 1600's and 1800's (don't know what bore sizes) but 1.8s are definately a stroked version of something. It would make sense that it was the 1.6 but I reckon all three blocks could well be the same, just with different liners. I can find out for defo.

#12 Alburglar

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 10:39 PM

Well I've made some enquiries. It is only the very ealiest K-series that differ. They are the same block from 1100cc up to a 1400cc and even share the same liners, but with different strokes. However anything other than the earlist of early blocks (which will certainly include any of the twin cams Dave, so not to worry) has the same block right the way through from 1.1 to 1.8! and with special liners and pistons you can even reach 1.9 and 2.0 without an overbore, but apparenlty this is bloody expensive.

Obviously the heads have different inlets and outlet sizes too.

Hope that helps

#13 mighty_mini

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 03:05 AM

oh yes it does my friend... :D thanks for finding out for sure. Im assuming the old old old ones will be the carbed version. I do intend to run mine as a 1.6 for the time being, but if i rebuild it for use with a turbo, i might aswell make it a 1.8 as it'd be rude not to :goaway: VVC head with a set of piper cams will do nicely too.yum!


Hope the rebuid goes well!

#14 Alburglar

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 02:52 PM

Right, it's already going pete tong.
I can't afford to pay someone to re-build the bottom end and I haven't got the time to do it myself so it is all now for sale.
I'd prefer to sell it together, so if anyone wants the complete car then £800 ono and it's yours just needs the bottom end re-built, gearbox has done 60,000miles and is in A1 condition - same for the vvc head which is in A1 condition.

Pm Me if interested

#15 Alburglar

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 08:47 PM

FAO DAVE MIGHTY MINI

1.1, short stroke long rods 75mm pistons
1.4, std stroke 2 lengths of rods depending on wet liner or damp liner, 2 types
75mm pistons depending on 8v/16v or 16v only pistons,
These combinations can be found in wet or damp-liner blocks.
1.6, std stroke, longer rod than 1.1 + 1.4 80mm vvc pistons, (its a big bore 1400).
All above share the same big-end bearings.

1.8, long stroke,bigger big-end dia, long rods, 80mm vvc pistons.
All above share the same main bearings and thrust-washers
1.6 and 1.8 are only found in Damp-liner blocks.




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