Ive recently realised that my choke return spring was missing, so i have to put the choke off from inside the engine bay. Not only that but my accelarator cable has slipped a bit. Could i just have a lower idle now? It doesnt happen all the time, the red light flickers then comes on when its dead. i hope it is this, but i just have to ask you guys incase its something more serious as i have a big trip tomorrow.
Also my wipers only work at 2 speed... bad earth?
Car sometimes cuts out when i put the clutch in
Started by
Protarmic
, Jan 21 2007 09:20 AM
8 replies to this topic
#2
Big_Adam
-
- Members
-
- 7,435 posts
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 21 January 2007 - 12:39 PM
lo. You say the red light flicks on. Yeah means the engines turning off during driving from fuel starvation or too low an idle. As it's happened to me when I had scung on the float needle.
....wait a sec. How on earth did you loose the choke return spring? It's under the choke arm and wire! Was the carb built without it?
....wait a sec. How on earth did you loose the choke return spring? It's under the choke arm and wire! Was the carb built without it?
#3
Protarmic
-
- Members
-
- 238 posts
Mini Mad
Posted 21 January 2007 - 11:22 PM
lo. You say the red light flicks on. Yeah means the engines turning off during driving from fuel starvation or too low an idle. As it's happened to me when I had scung on the float needle.
....wait a sec. How on earth did you loose the choke return spring? It's under the choke arm and wire! Was the carb built without it?
Ok so nothing major. aslong as i dont roll out onto a roundabut again and try to accelarate off.. only to realise my engine isnt running. I have twin carbs, and for some reason its not there, maybe the previous owner took it off for some reason... alot of strange things with my car.
#4
Big_Adam
-
- Members
-
- 7,435 posts
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 22 January 2007 - 12:01 AM
Ah, twins have 1 spring to do both then?
Just on my single HS4 the spring is in between the carb body and the choke leaver controller thingy me bobby.
Have you not got a rev counter with which to check your idle?...........beacuse now that I think about it the car would prob be a bit of a bugger just starting due to a low idle now bought about by lack of choke. Could be badly set up beacuse the choke pops the idle up a bit and richen the mix.
Just on my single HS4 the spring is in between the carb body and the choke leaver controller thingy me bobby.
Have you not got a rev counter with which to check your idle?...........beacuse now that I think about it the car would prob be a bit of a bugger just starting due to a low idle now bought about by lack of choke. Could be badly set up beacuse the choke pops the idle up a bit and richen the mix.
#5
Protarmic
-
- Members
-
- 238 posts
Mini Mad
Posted 24 January 2007 - 08:21 PM
Ah, twins have 1 spring to do both then?
Just on my single HS4 the spring is in between the carb body and the choke leaver controller thingy me bobby.
Have you not got a rev counter with which to check your idle?...........beacuse now that I think about it the car would prob be a bit of a bugger just starting due to a low idle now bought about by lack of choke. Could be badly set up beacuse the choke pops the idle up a bit and richen the mix.
Turns out its been overheating.. It did start after i put radweld in the system.. and i have a blockage now. Shame i only realised after a 500 mile trip... Im trying to use radflush to remove some C**p from the pipes. I hope i havent damaged it completly, with the amount of times it cut out on the road, then a complete stop resulting in a tow home (20 miles from my house). Its been running today. I hate radweld
#6
dklawson
-
- TMF+ Member
-
- 10,923 posts
Moved Into The Garage
- Name: Doug
- Location: Durham, NC - USA
- Local Club: none
Posted 24 January 2007 - 09:39 PM
Regarding the idle speed and the red light....
Put a tach on the car and determine what speed you're idling out. Depending on what has been done to your engine you can set the idle speed wherever seems right. I target somewhere between 800 and 1000 RPM on my car but that is my personal target and isn't necessarily right for you.
The red light isn't necessarily an indication that the engine has stopped. It is an indication that the RPM aren't enough to keep the alternator self-energized. It means your engine is running very slow (hence my comments above about checking your idle RPM).
What concerns me is that you report that stalling only happens when you push the clutch in. Traditionally this has been an indication that you may need to check the clutch adjustments. When the clutch travel limit isn't set properly, pushing in the clutch allows the crank to move forward (heavily) against its thrust bearings. When the idle speed is low and the clutch adjustments aren't right there can be significant decreases in RPM... even stalling. Letting this go can result in damage to the thrust bearings and/or crank.
Again, check your idle speed but also check your clutch adjustments while you're in there.
Put a tach on the car and determine what speed you're idling out. Depending on what has been done to your engine you can set the idle speed wherever seems right. I target somewhere between 800 and 1000 RPM on my car but that is my personal target and isn't necessarily right for you.
The red light isn't necessarily an indication that the engine has stopped. It is an indication that the RPM aren't enough to keep the alternator self-energized. It means your engine is running very slow (hence my comments above about checking your idle RPM).
What concerns me is that you report that stalling only happens when you push the clutch in. Traditionally this has been an indication that you may need to check the clutch adjustments. When the clutch travel limit isn't set properly, pushing in the clutch allows the crank to move forward (heavily) against its thrust bearings. When the idle speed is low and the clutch adjustments aren't right there can be significant decreases in RPM... even stalling. Letting this go can result in damage to the thrust bearings and/or crank.
Again, check your idle speed but also check your clutch adjustments while you're in there.
#7
Protarmic
-
- Members
-
- 238 posts
Mini Mad
Posted 24 January 2007 - 09:56 PM
Well it happened when i came to a stop at roundabouts and put the clutch in and braked. I think this is just overheating as the car ran fine before the radweld, even after the accelrator cable slipped and i put the choke off.
The pipe coming from my engine pay to the heater was boiling hot, and the out pipe was cold as hell. There must be a blockage in the heater
The pipe coming from my engine pay to the heater was boiling hot, and the out pipe was cold as hell. There must be a blockage in the heater
#8
fikus01
-
- Members
-
- 1,910 posts
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
- Local Club: SMAG - Southend Mini Action Group
Posted 24 January 2007 - 10:08 PM
or an airlock
#9
Protarmic
-
- Members
-
- 238 posts
Mini Mad
Posted 24 January 2007 - 10:13 PM
or an airlock
Yeah i thought that at first so i popped the radiator cap off for awhile... still didnt work. Another thing though, even after taking both pipes off the heater to drain the water, i only got 2 litres out. They hold 5 litres dont they?
Also, with this over heating, does that because you to lose oil?
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
