11 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi
My previous post was about bleeding the clutch on my pre-verto mini. Bascially, i am getting clutch drag, and it crunches in 1st and reverse. Its only when the clutch pedal is right down to the floor as far as it will go, that the gears dont crunch.

Does this mean the biting point is too far down the pedal travel? if so, how do i adjust?

Thanks

[Big_Adam]

busy busy John,

You can adjust the clutch stop gap which I found to move the bite point up for a while until the clutch settle. But there's way less crunching from it. Thing with reverse tho is there isn't a sncro on it. To adjust tho, look at the clutch arm, were the slave clinder attaches, down there (moving down the clutch arm) there is a bolt sticking out from the clutch housing. This is were the stop gap is done. Take the spring off the clutch arm then pull the clutch arm, it should wiggle a little in and out. then use some feelers put them between the arm and the bolt head. the gap should be 0.5mm. Undo the nut on the bolt (this locks the bolt in place) and adjust as needed. Then tighten it all back up again.

Also,,,,,buy a haynes. :P

[mk=john]

Hi
Thata already done, but the problem is the clutch is dagging. It only stops dragging when I press really hard on the pedal when it is right down as hard as it will go!

[Big_Adam]

ooooooow. ... ... errm ... .... sorry no idea now. My usefulness has ended.

Sorry man,

[Mini-Dave]

The gap is surposed to be 20 thou

i think this is for a new clutch, not sure tho, so if its worn, you can wind the screw out, so the gap is smaller, but make sure theres still a tiny gap, this should make the biting point higher, it did on my mates car anyway. i hope this is the right thing to do, and ive not just given wrong advice lol

by the way, try when putting it into reverse, make sure the car is not moving wait a couple of seconds, then push it into reverse slowy. it shouldnt crunch then.

Dave

[mini13]

Ahh been there before!

I have found on my car that the haynes adjustment doesn't work, maybe due to having an uprated diaphram...

Anyway what works for me is pop the return spring off, pull the big arm out by hand, wind the little 7/16" stop bolt out until it just touches and take it back 1 flat and lock it up, give the lever a wiggle and there should just be a tiny bit of clearance, also i do this with the engine hot to make sure the clearanc doesn't vanish when the engine warms up.

Oh also check the throwout stop, (big nuts at the end of engine) there should be clearance with the pedal all the way down.

also I'd suggest replacing the wearable parts so you know where you are, fairly easy except for the bit actually in the cluch housing...

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=32882

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=32985

can't find the push rod that goes into the slave cylinder...

[mk=john]

Hi
Thanks for the help, but I have another question on this subject. As mentioned, I am experiencing clutch drag, and also crunching in 1st and reverse. I have noticed however that the clutch pedal at restis about 1 inch close to the floor than the brake pedal at rest. Is this wrong? On first guess, I think if the clutch pedal was highr at rest, then this would allow more mtravel, and therefore there would be no crunch.

Should, and how would I adjust the clutch pedal itself so it rests a little higher? Would this also potentially solve my problem?

Thanks

[Mini-Dave]

erm, id say proberly not, because its still guna only be able to push the master cyclinder the same amount

try adjusting it!

Dave

[mini13]

the clutch pedal should be about that much higher, except on early cars.

[mk=john]

So, I guess the pedal is connected directly to the pushrod on the Mater Cylinder, right? I may try getting a new slave cylinder push pin, this may be a n=bit longer than the one already on there. Would this help do you think?

John

[Maxmini]

Have you adjusted the clutch throw with the two nuts at the bottom of the clutch arm ?. Press the clutch down and get some one to wind the inner nut to the clutch housing boss then realease the clutch pedal and turn one more flat of the nut clockwise then lock off with the second nut see if this helps sounds like you might not be disengaging the clutch hence the drag.

[vasi]

Maxmini has the method as such.

After setting the return stop, the nuts set the limit of the throw, move them in and you get less throw, move them out and you get more.

Move them in too far, you get drag.

Move them out too far, you create side load on the crank causing the engine to dip or stall.

In the odd situation where you find that the difference between the two limits, drag and stall is too fine, remove the flywheel / clutch assy and ensure the driving straps are parellel to the flywheel. This situation sometimes occurs when a hotch potch of parts are made up.