12 replies to this topic

[bens_cab]

Hi guys just got a 1981 mini 1000cc for my girlfriend its been stored for a couple of years so sold as a non runner
anyway i was told the solonoid had gone nut i cleaned the earths and replaced the battery and it seems to spin over on the key nice now

ive changed the plugs leads rotor arm and cap but when i try and start it nothing it will fire every now and then but wont start
ive stripped the carb down and cleaned it all made sure the float was working ok but it still wont start

so ive got a good spark and fuel because the plugs seem wet but no go go the car also has electronic ignition so no points any help would be good

its has stage 1 tuning kit fitted

[Big_Adam]

How old if the fuel as modern petrol tends to go off after a while.

[Guess-Works.com]

New fuel

[Phaeton]

Have you got nay compression? Take out plugs & put finger over hole & turn over engine. Also consider buying a tin of easystart & try to start it with that. If it fires & runs on that then it's a carb/fuel issue, are you uaing new or old fuel?

Alan...

[dklawson]

There could be any number of things wrong. As mentioned by Big_Adam, if the fuel has been in the tank a couple of years you should drain it out and replace it with fresh gas. After that, I'd disconnect the fuel pipes at the carb and crank the engine over to flush out all the old fuel in the lines. Don't forget that the float bowls will be full of old gas also and should be drained.

Your plugs were wet... which normally would indicate fuel is getting through the carb but I'd still recommend marking the orientation of the carb's vacuum chamber (so you can put it back in the same orientation) and removing it (carefully). With that removed you'll be able to pull the piston and needle up/off. Use a pipe cleaner sprayed down with carburetor cleaner to carefully clean the inside of the jet tube. Use very soft ScotchBrite with carb cleaner to clean the needle. Use a plastic tube to blow back down through the jet to to confirm that air/fuel can pass through the connection to the float bowl. Old fuel and brass can form a very tenacious gum/varnish that may be partially or completely blocking the jet. Once you've cleaned the inside of the jet tube, the needle, and confirmed air/fuel can pass through to the float bowl you should be ready to try again.

Apart from that it sounds like you've done everything I would do. However, since you don't know what the previous owner may have done prior to parking the car, I'd check the static ignition timing also. IF after cleaning the carb and insuring the ignition is working and timed correctly, you may need to take another look at the carb to see if the previous owner had screwed up the needle adjustments prior to parking the car.

[bens_cab]

cheers for the replys i think ill change the fuel first then check the timing ect ect like i said i got the car as a non runner i dont even know if it was running before it was stored its defiantely got good compression

ill also try the easystart just so ive done it do you just spray it in the plug holes?

also whats a clean 81 mini worth without mot and tax it was restored in 2003 its got mamba alloys peco zorst bucket seats and the bodywork looks good couple of bubbly bits was it worth £400

[TOMMO0302]

I'd say it was definately worth that, dependant on why it didnt have an MOT of course.

Dont you put the easy start into the carb? Or does it make no odds?

[bens_cab]

from what i could make out from the guy i got it off he put it in the garage because the solonoid had gone but i just cleaned all the earths up and it seemed to sort that problem

it looks pretty solid underneath subframes look new ect

soon as i get it running ill bang it in for a mot

its a new thing for me im into vws ive got a mk1 golf 20vt cab that ive just converted so hopefully the mini will be no major problem for me

he says

[dklawson]

Some people spray starting fluid down the carb throat while cranking. I don't do that and I don't encourage you to either. My method may be unorthodox, but I spray the starting fluid on the air filter element then crank the engine over. This way only fumes get into the engine. The spray is very combustible so use it sparingly and with caution.

I've been warned all my life that excessive spraying of starting fluid directly into the carb throat is a good way to wash the lube oil off the cylinder bores. Again, use it sparingly.

[Retro_10s]

I use easy start the same way you do DK,... seems to work but i've always thought easi-start was a bit of a bodge. Nevertheless fingers crossed, you might find once she's started up and idled for a few minutes she'll relax and get used to be being disturbed

[bens_cab]

well just been out in the snaow took the plugs out cleaned them of then soaked them in fresh petrol and broom started on the button ive let it get up to temp but it doesnt like coming of choke feels like its starving of fuel going to get a couple of can filled then add that to whats in there as its on the empty mark im hoping it just needs a good run to clear itself

cheers for all the advice once its running its mot time

[dklawson]

Glad to hear you got her started. The fact that she doesn't want to run at idle when warm and off the choke indicates to me that there may be the blockage/deposits on the needle and jet tube that I mentioned earlier. If you're careful, cleaning them off as I described can be done without affecting the mixture. Of course... it could also be that she doesn't want to idle because of carb "tweaking" the previous owner did before giving up on the car.

[bens_cab]

well its going for the mot tommorow so ill get the garage to see what the co is doing if they can adjust it even better i think its running lean as

soon as its motd ill give it a good run and adjust the co until its running sweet i may even take the wideband sensor from my golf and stick up the zorst to see what its doing