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Rear subframe


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#1 screech

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 07:02 PM

As i finally got my radius arms yesterday i can now get on.
So been out there for a bit, and just want to make sure bits iv done look right, i.e, the seals are on the radius arms right, the rear and front mounts etc..

any other advice large or small will be much appreciated.


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Edited by screech, 29 January 2007 - 07:04 PM.


#2 The Matt

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 07:55 PM

Those rear brackets are a bugger!

From memory, you have to put the bolts in the front mount (the two that face forward into the sill) before you put the brackets on. Then you can put the brackets on and tighten the bolts up from behind it. Though I bolted the barckets up after the frame was in place I fink ;)

#3 screech

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 07:59 PM

why did you have to do it that way?

#4 $way

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 04:12 PM

From memory, you have to put the bolts in the front mount (the two that face forward into the sill) before you put the brackets on. Then you can put the brackets on and tighten the bolts up from behind it. Though I bolted the barckets up after the frame was in place I fink


eh? dont understand what you mean here?

you'll have to take the brackets off and fit them to the rad arms first, then put the rad arm shaft through the subframe, then tit around for ages getting the brackets to line up with all 4 holes...

#5 DTXDave

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 09:27 PM

I recently replaced a rear subframe myself. It was a learning experience I can tell you. I kept a blog which starts here and ended here with the correct fitting of the subframe. Includes photos.

Hopefully it will prove helpful.

:w00t:

Edited by DTXDave, 30 January 2007 - 09:29 PM.


#6 screech

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 12:34 AM

Well they are fitted :( hopefully they are right.


Got the car home tday and my dad let me put it in the garage, and the subframes out already :ghost: , although i sort of forgot to take off the brake pipe so it came down with the subframe, so il prob have to replace all that now... oops lol.

So now iv got it on the floor and can move the radius arms myself, they dont seem to make the clunking noise that they did when i was driving it, any ideas? like would they only make big noises when under a load if they are knackered?
If not, what else could the clunking noise have been, it was VERY bad!


mark

Edited by screech, 07 February 2007 - 12:44 AM.


#7 screech

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 01:04 AM

bump :wub:

#8 miniboo

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 06:16 AM

looks ok to me.fit all the bolts loosely first as it may take a bit of jiggling to line the frame uo with all the holes.

once all loosely fitted tighten up

#9 TOMMO0302

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 12:04 PM

It can be very hard to recreate noises when you dont have the weight of the car on it!! Of course, it still 'could' be something else, but can't help you with what

#10 screech

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 09:45 PM

ok cheers guys.


Well the subframe was ripped out tues night, the under sill has been scraped away :w00t: , and this is the out come :angel:

Edited by screech, 08 February 2007 - 09:49 PM.


#11 $way

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 10:19 PM

i cant work out what the hell that picture shows lol.

doesnt look too bad to weld up...

what does it show though, where is it on the car???

#12 screech

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 10:30 PM

the first one is the battary box, and the other 1 is basically under the rear seat? drivers side, bout 6 inches from where the rear soreage thing starts.

And if you look at the last one, the hole at the left of the pic, thats at the bottom of the arch near the front mounting point.


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#13 screech

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 07:43 PM

like this... :angel:

#14 screech

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 07:15 PM

well iv just welded up the big hole, just got a couple od little pin holes to fill in.

Whats the best way to protect it from rusting again as its a new weld, seam seal? stone chip?

Its going to be painted with POR15 in the end.

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#15 $way

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 07:29 PM

a decent rust inhibiting primer, zinc rich or red oxide is good.




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