8 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi
I recently had a gear crunching problem when selecting 1st or reverse gear on my 3-synch gear box. I bled the clutch, and replaced all wearable clutch parts (pre-verto clutch) to include clevis pins, clutch arm, plunger, release bearing. push rod. I also bled the system. Also, I made sure there was no excesive play in the clutch pedal clevis.

The crunch problem is now solved, but I find that if changing to first or reverse from a standstill, the clutch pedal has to be very low to the floor to avaoid a crunch. Even though this is not posing a problem, can anyone tell me if it normal for a Mk1 mini for the biting point to be low in the pedal travel?

Thanks

[Big_Adam]

I THINK! reverce has no scncro so it crunches unless you double clutch or change slowly. My El Gordo does it often. Only a little tho.

[mk=john]

Hi
So, is this correct on my Mk1 by design? If it is not correct, following all the work done which I described, what could be the reason for a low clutch bite point?

Thanks

[Big_Adam]

Sorry John, not got much clue on Mk 1, El Gordo is a Mk3 or 4.

[*DJH*]

Hi
I recently had a gear crunching problem when selecting 1st or reverse gear on my 3-synch gear box. I bled the clutch, and replaced all wearable clutch parts (pre-verto clutch) to include clevis pins, clutch arm, plunger, release bearing. push rod. I also bled the system. Also, I made sure there was no excesive play in the clutch pedal clevis.

The crunch problem is now solved, but I find that if changing to first or reverse from a standstill, the clutch pedal has to be very low to the floor to avaoid a crunch. Even though this is not posing a problem, can anyone tell me if it normal for a Mk1 mini for the biting point to be low in the pedal travel?

Thanks

I Think Guessworks Needs To Step In Here, It Sounds Like You Have A Worn 1st Gear But Don't Hold Me To That...

[minislapper]

Clutch pedal nearer to the floor is a sign that the clutch is in good order (which you would hope as you've just replaced it). As it's a pre-verto you can adjust the pedal travel.

[mk=john]

Hi
Yes, I have eliminated all play. But how do I go about adjusting pedal travel? The clutch pedal cant possibly rest in a higher position than it does at the moment. The bottom of the clutch pedal near the clevis to the Master cylinder rests against the channel in the bulkhead when the pedal is released.
So the foot part of the pedal cant go higher.

Thanks

[Grayedout]

Disconnect the spring and pull the clutch arm away from the cover by hand until all the play has been taken up. Now wind out the bolt that sits in the clutch cover until it sits a few thou (check Haynes for spec) from the clutch arm and tighten the locknut.

Then re-connect the spring and see if this feels any better !!

[mk=john]

Hi
Yes, the stops are already adjusted to give the maximum throw, but what I was referring to with adjusting pedal movement, is that there seems no way of adjusting the pedal throw itself.

I have replaced a worn clevis pin on the clutch pedal. The position of the clutch pedal at rest is is the foot end of it is about 1 inch lower than the brake pedal. The only way it seems to raise this height would be to grind some metal off the other end of it (Where is touches the inside of the bulkhead cross member).

This would then bring it so it is level to the brake pedal at rest.
So can anyone tell me if the clutch pedal and brake pedal on a Mk1 should be level at rest, or should the clutch pedal sit 1 inch lower as it does at the moment?

I dont have a crunch problem, as long as the clutch is depressed all the way down....so, is all this normal or not?
Thanks
John