Trigger pulley
#1
Posted 05 February 2007 - 12:24 PM
I am trying to source a pulley for me megajolt kit and have a question.
I can get my brand new crank pulley machined at a local machine shop (probably cheap, through work) but need to know where the missing tooth sits in relation to the woodruff key cut out on the pulley. Does anyone have a piccy of one that they could post up?
From what I have read I think the missing tooth needs to correspond with TDC, which means it would be inline with the woodruff key slot, no??? Then I mount the pickup 90 degrees before that?
One other thing, does the pulley need re-balancing once it's been machined?
I thank you please!
#2
Posted 05 February 2007 - 07:39 PM
#3
Posted 05 February 2007 - 07:44 PM
#4
Posted 05 February 2007 - 07:46 PM
#5
Posted 05 February 2007 - 08:11 PM
#6
Posted 06 February 2007 - 04:35 PM
PM me or email me if ya need a CAD copy of it.
#7
Posted 06 February 2007 - 04:39 PM
#8
Posted 06 February 2007 - 05:12 PM
If you have a piece of sheet metal and some tin snips you can make your own.
Or they are premade for about 13GBP.
You can also see that one of the examples is an A series motor pulley.
You could make it slightly larger then the pulley and face it in or out as need for space.
http://www.kimmins.info/
Edited by Bill USN-1, 06 February 2007 - 05:13 PM.
#9
Posted 06 February 2007 - 06:20 PM
#10
Posted 06 February 2007 - 06:21 PM
#11
Posted 06 February 2007 - 06:59 PM
aaah, could just have a different pick-up location I guess!
I would determine where you want the pick up first and then position the notch according to that.
I machined the pulley on my GM DIS conversion in the miniengine forum.
And I ended up making 2 pulleys because the first ended up placing the pickup straight down at the motor mount!!
So I moved it to the 9 o'clock position and made my brackets there.
#12
Posted 06 February 2007 - 07:28 PM
I am going to do a review/guide when I fit it all to the mini too. Loads of photos and CAD drawings of brackets and stuff shall be on there. Any further info from other sources is more than welcome too (thanks for the input so far).
#13
Posted 06 February 2007 - 08:04 PM
http://www.specialis...odCategoryID=17
Why not try these?? Other than cost??
http://www.turbomini...p...vt&tid=7423
Edited by Mini Sprocket, 06 February 2007 - 08:08 PM.
#14
Posted 06 February 2007 - 08:39 PM
I have also heard talk of a MED one.
I think I will do a review full of links for places to get the kit etc and pin it somewhere or put it in the FAQ section.
It's made for interesting reading over the last few weeks! I didn't even know what 'wasted spark' meant before I started looking into this stuff!
#15
Posted 06 February 2007 - 11:57 PM
I have the damper off mine atm waiting to go to the machine shop. £10 will have it turned down to fit the freshly-baked-off alloy toothed ring from an 1800CVH.
This seems to me to be a much neater and less labour costly method.
Alternatively borrow / buy / steal a cheap pillar drill and using a decent cobalt bit, low speed and plenty of 3in1, do it yourself!
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