10 replies to this topic

[tucker]

I all

Recently purchased a second hand engine off a mate and we weren't 100% sure if all the bits were actually what we hoped.

So have now pulled it apart and can be quite sure of the following:

MED 83.5 crankshaft

1293CC bore with new pistons

Kent 296 CAM

and I'm going to stick a big valve MG Metro head on that I have spare.

SO:

1) Does this sound like a set up which will all work together?

I want it for road use but to be quick. I don't mind that the cam is probably a bit too lary.

2) What maintenance would you do while the gearbox and head are off?

3) What else should I put into this engine to get the most out of it?

I was thinking a lightened fly-wheel. Was also considering mappable ignitiion system and maybe a Weber rather than HIF44 but I don't know if this is worth the expense.

Cheers all.

[The Matt]

With a +0.020" overbore (normally 1293 bore) and a stroked crank, you're looking at somewhere in the region of 1330 (something like 1327 if I worked it out right). It should make for a reasonably torquey motor, but I think I'd ditch the 296 cam for something with a rev range more suited to the lower down grunt of a longer stroke engine. Something like a Swiftune SW5 maybe??? I'd make sure you've got vernier timing gear in there, check the gearbox for wear, tolerances etc.

Generally, should be a good engine if it's put together well, but the main thing I'd be thinking about is getting the compression ratio right, which with a stroked crank may mean removing some metal from the combustion chambers in the head, or skimming the head. It all needs to be to suit the engine and driving style.

I'd probably go for a tuned HIF44 carb on it (decent inlet manifold, correct needle) and an LCB exhaust manifold.

As for the igntion, yeah, you could go for mappable, something like the Megajolt setup that I am about to fit to mine, there are plenty of options out there at the moment.

How will the car be used? Everyday or occasional weekend fun?

EDIT: What FD is the gearbox running? Maybe you could also look at changing that to suit your engine build? Could go for a 3.1:1 ratio?

Dunno, I've never had a longer stroked engine personally.....

Edited by mini mad me, 26 February 2007 - 10:10 AM.

[Retro_10s]

In my eyes i think that'll be quite a pokey little motor mate. I would recommend keeping with the HIF44 and getting it all setup properly by a recognised Mini specialist with a rolling road. Webers are fun... but when a correctly needled HIF44 that's in good nick is workable for up to around the 140 horses mark.. i don't see much point in fitting a Weber on this spec unless you like the induction roar.

Gearbox wise.. and with this spec... I would just check over everything and make sure there isn't any stupid amounts of wear on anything in there, if there isn't a central oil pick up pipe in there,.. fit one.

Mappable Ignition such as MegaJolt is a great idea if you like to play around with stuff... also enables you to set up spot on timing etc... there's lots of threads on running it and fitting it on TMF.

To get the most from that engine you need to rebuild with care, checking all tolerances etc and torque figures (as with any engine really). Use a good quality gasket set with a 'Payen' type Head gasket (BK450) Replace the oil pump, New followers (if needed... check for scratching etc) MG metro Manifold was probably the best manifold used on the Aseries engine (A+), Get a decent exhaust setup from either Maniflow, or get a 1.75" RC40. Get a decdent air filter on there too, Standard air box with a K&N standard replacement is a very worthwhile upgrade.. and often out performs the cone type filters.... ITG do agood kit... think it was developed by Keith Calver bla bla bla, and is supposed to be rather good for harnessing optimum flow etc.

You seem to have most things sorted though mate... Big head, Big Cam, 1293 is a nice rebore size so plenty of life left in the block, quality crank. I wouldn't worry about the cam being too lary... Guessworks has a 290 in his 1293 and it's smooth as! there are a couple if small things you can do to help smooth the cam out at idle.. but if it's lumpy.. it will always be slightly lumpy no matter what you do.

While the head's off It's be worth De-cokeing it (getting all the crud off the valves + chambers and making them shiny and new looking again) The difference i noticed once i'd de-cruded My old 1098 was immense! Replace the Valve stem Oil seals or at least check they're all present.

Now wait for someone with a better knoweledge than me to come along

[tucker]

Really helpful - many thanks.

I have most of those things - no idea if current needle will be appropriate but essentially I have the stage 1 kit. Just need to look into getting a megajolt then.

One final question:

This engine was not put together by either me or my friend so I have no idea if the cam timing is correct. If I assume that it is correct and install it is there a danger that I will ruin the engine if it is out? How difficult is it to check and sort this out when the engine is installed - is it better to do it with the engine out of the car?

Thanks all

[The Matt]

Really helpful - many thanks.

I have most of those things - no idea if current needle will be appropriate but essentially I have the stage 1 kit. Just need to look into getting a megajolt then.

One final question:

This engine was not put together by either me or my friend so I have no idea if the cam timing is correct. If I assume that it is correct and install it is there a danger that I will ruin the engine if it is out? How difficult is it to check and sort this out when the engine is installed - is it better to do it with the engine out of the car?

Thanks all

Definitely better to set the cam timing (or at least check it) with the engine out. As I said above, I'd go for a vernier timing kit from the likes of Kent or Swiftune. That way you can get the very best from your chosen camshaft.

[Herman]

Get the timing chain cover off, and have a look. The guy said that it was definately a duplex set (two chains as per 1275 Cooper S rather than just the one) - but knowing your luck it'll be a proper vernier set...

[biggav]

i have a 1380 with 296, stage 4 head, maniflow exhaust and Vizarded HIF44 with a Mg manifold its a bit of a bum in heavy traffic as the lowest comfortable cruise speed is over 15 mph below that, its jerky and horrible!! hate to think what it will be like with a 2.76:1 FD!!!

[Herman]

It's the metro turbo final drive, which is 3.2 IIRC.

[tucker]

I haev 10" wheels is the only thing - do you think it would be worth sticking bigger wheels on? I'd be gutted to have to do this because. my wheels are pretty much the only good thing about my car!

[Retro_10s]

No. Ten's handle best. which is what you when you've got power under the bonnet.

[Herman]

3.2 = taller than 3.44, which is what you've got at the mo.

Lovely job.