27 replies to this topic

[spud]

I've just put a new clutch in my 1275 and have thoroughly cleaned and greased all the pivots etc but the clutch is still stiff in operation. I have yet to change the hydraulic hose as I've done a search and learned that in time they restrict making the fluid more difficult to pump through. Will this make a lot of difference. I guess the existing pipe is the original as fitted in '96.

Is there anything else I can do?

I've considered such things as lengthening the clutch pedal and relocating the holes in the pedal nearer to the fulcrum. All to decrease the effort needed to operate the clutch. I appreciate that the mini clutches are stiff to operate as a rule but my left knee joint and hip joint aren't in particularly good condition to start with

Any help appreciated.

Spud.

[Retro_10s]

have you bled the system through?

[ginigwunkle]

have you changed for std clutch setup?

i changed my std clutch to a race clutch and its loads stiffer due to the spirngs on the backplate/diaphragm being stronger...

i left my std rubber pipe on from 95 cooper

a bleed is always good anyway but mite not make a difference, air would make it easier...

[spud]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Yes, I did bleed the system and it was fitted with a new standard verto clutch (190mm).

I was under the impression that the verto clutch was introduced to make the clutch operation easier in order to match the smoother operation of the clutches fitted to modern cars. It appears to be a wrong assumption. The last time I had a mini in the mid 80's (how old am I!!!) the brake pedal was easier to depress than the clutch !!.

I don't mind if I adapt the present system somehow so that the clutch pedal has a much longer 'sweep' or even if it is higher to start with, I'm just more concerned about how much force is required to actually press it. I also have a 2001 diesel vectra and the clutch action on that is so easy. If I could only adapt the brake servo to operate the clutch - now there's a thought!!

Cheers,

Spud.

[taffy1967]

Well something has got to be wrong because the Verto clutch is usually very soft, or at least is supposed to be. The only issues i've had is when the actual clutch arm sticks and then the pedal won't depress. All it takes is a gentle tap with a screwdriver (and perhaps some WD40) to coax the arm to move and then get someone to keep pressing and releasing the clutch so the arm starts working again properly.

Edited by taffy1967, 09 March 2007 - 01:38 PM.

[spud]

All the 'wok' was cleaned up including the clutch arm joint and then well greased so i can't think that the problem lies there. Like I said i did not change the hydraulic hose, neither did I change the slave cylinder as I assumed that they were OK.

To be honest I've been out and tried my clutch again and it isn't bad enough to think that something is wrong. The clutch bite feels about right. Probably the real problem is my dodgy knee and hip joints which can't handle having to apply so much pressure. A physio once told me that sometimes even the seating position, posture and operating angles of the joints can irritate them. Do any physios or chiropractors use this forum?

I have just tried 'fixing' a small extension bar on the end of the clutch pedal to decrease the applied force required and it certainly works. It might be worth doing properly.

Any other suggestions anyone?

[TOMMO0302]

No other suggestions, but it sounds as you say like nothing is actually wrong, its because you use another car. I sometimes drive a fiat brava, which feels like a luxury car because the clutch is so easy compared to the mini, i had an Alfa GTV a while back, after driving that and then driving the Brava, the brava felt like an old banger! Its all relative in my opinion, but i can certainly see how seating position could help, the further back you sit, the more muscle you will be using, as opposed to more joint movement if that makes sense?

[spud]

Yep, that sounds about right!!

I'm thinking of getting a spare clutch pedal to play with -

1) Drill a new hole for the clutch master cylinder clevis pin nearer to the pedal spindle.
2) Reshape the pedal so that it sits higher up to start with
3) Extend it slightly.

It will be a lot of experimenting but I'm sure it will be worth it. I notice with modern cars that their clutch pedals do have a longer range. Though I'm not too sure if item 1 is a wise move as the master cylinder rod would not be in alignment with the piston in the cylinder , if that makes sense!

What d'ya think?

[ginigwunkle]

i have a company 55plate vectra and the clutch is scarily light too!

when i get back in the mini i feel ive lost my let trying to press the clutch, stil not too bad.

could it be that your just not used to the feel of it yet?

lol

[spud]

Yes, perhaps I just need to build up my leg muscles. Next time I see a mini owner I'll look to see if their left leg is thicker than their right.

I'm going to take out the pedal box to see if I can adapt the clutch pedal in any way. the other thing I was considering is to raise the seat slightly so that I would be pressing my foot down rather than across to operate the pedal. I dread to think what it would be like with some sort of racing/heavy duty clutch.

If I get it wrong, how much should I expect to pay for a second hand clutch pedal?

Thanks for everyone's help so far,

spud.

[minislapper]

WHOA !!!!!!

You said at the top that you have not yet changed the hose, which is a much easier job than re-designing the whole clutch pedal layout, so do this first and then see what happens !!!

Yes these hoses can and do break up inside and restrict the flow of fluid !!!!!!

[spud]

Right Dudes!!

Hydraulic hose now changed but no noticeable improvement - so what should I consider next?

Auto gearbox!!!

Spud.

[Guess-Works.com]

Maybe something as simple as a little lubrication on the actual pedal in the box, it runs with a bush on a pin, and overtime these can rust and sieze... First thing to tri is a little easing oil ( 3 in 1 - NOT WD40 ) on the pedal at the pivot, and work the pedal ( not only will this potentiall free the pdeal, but will give your leg some exercise too )

[pogie]

HI Spud, this is an interesting thread for me as my left knee got severely damaged as a result of a scooter accident last year and my Mini has been laid up ever since.

I have owned my Mini for 8 years and always felt the clutch was heavy compared to all my old pre-verto cars and intended to overhaul it, but never go around to it before the accident. As my knee is badly damaged and will need replacing at some point, I have to give it as easy a time as possible, so at the moment I am driving an automatic Escort but I would really like to get behind the wheel of the Mini again. My Mini is one of the few pre-accident hobbies I have left and I would be gutted if I had to sell it because I couldn’t use the clutch.

I am planning to do the same as you and replace the clutch but I am also intending to replace the pivot arm and pin, the release baring plunger, slave cylinder and hose and also do as GuesWorks said and lube up the pedal box. If this still leaves the clutch too heavy I am intending to look at smaller bore master cylinders, which should reduce the pedal pressure at the expense of longer pedal travel.

One thing I hadn't considered and I must admit I don't really understand is Line Pressure. A friend introduced me to a neighbour of his who races a historic Formula 5000 single-seater and who also used to own a motor sports part and accessories business. I picked his brain about master cylinders etc, but this guy also mentioned that running a hose with a larger internal diameter would reduce the line pressure and should help give a lighter peddle. I can't really get my head around this as it seems to me you are still moving the same amount of fluid for a given force at the peddle, but it's something I’m going to look into if overhauling the clutch assembly doesn't reduce the peddle pressure enough for me to comfortably drive the Mini.

My Misses has asked why I don’t convert the mini to an auto-box, but having driven my friends Clubbie Estate auto, I have to say it was probably the worst gearbox of any vehicle that I have ever driven (even worse then the CVT box in my current Escort) and would completely destroy the character of my RSP.

Edited by pogie, 13 March 2007 - 10:46 AM.

[Guess-Works.com]

A good condition auto can be great to drive, ok not as sophisticated as modern auto's ( remeber the A series auto was designed in probably the 50's and has changed squat since then ) but realy good for cruising. The generally have better gear ratios than the manual with a better top end cruising speed. The only down side is, you need a good condition well maintained and serviced one, auto boxes are renowned for problems associated with poor maintenance.