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Verto clutch removal


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#1 seria

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 10:46 AM

Hi there,
1992 Rover mini cooper with Verto clutch.
There are oil in the clutch housing and therefore I am thinking of changing the oil seal and at the same time change the clutch lining. Question is how do I remove the pressure plate, driven plate and flywheel in-order to access the oil seal. I have read haynes but do not understand. Appreciate your help. Or yes while the engine is out what else do i need to look out for.
Thanks for your help.

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Edited by seria, 12 March 2007 - 10:48 AM.


#2 yerdusk

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 10:52 AM

i replaced my verto clutch not too long ago and it was a complete nightmare! Basically i followed the haynes manual a little, but just took things out as i needed to. I didnt lift the engine completly out, just loosened mounts and tilted it. The bolts around the clutch housing are a pain to remove but once these are off its not too bad! I used a puller to remove the clutch plate, flywheel etc, bought it from machine mart. Was only about £15 i think. Hope this helps a little?!

#3 seria

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 11:00 AM

Do i need to loosen the center nut?

#4 TimS

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 11:27 AM

You need to take the center nut out, then use a special 3 legged flywheel pulled to take the flywheel and clutch off in one go. The flywheel/ crank will need locking in place to do this. Then you will be able to access the oil seal once this is off.

PULLER
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Edited by Flappyplasticbits, 12 March 2007 - 11:27 AM.


#5 TOMMO0302

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 12:09 PM

Just make sure you read the instructions when using the puller. You need to ensure that all 3 bolts are screwed in equally so you are pulling the clutch straight off and not at an angle. You also need to ensure that you use the circular black thing in centre of above pic in the crank nose to protect it from the big bolt to its left.

#6 The Matt

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 12:13 PM

I noticed that my local Halfords now stock these tools too. Deffo worth having one!

#7 TimS

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 12:41 PM

Mini Mad Me is right. Halfords used to stock the Sykes one shown in the first pic, but now stock exactly the same one made my lazer.

Posted Image

They are £14.99 see LINK

Edited by Flappyplasticbits, 12 March 2007 - 12:42 PM.


#8 autotester

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 12:54 PM

These verto clutches can be extremely difficult to remove. I bought the puller from Minisport it's a very substantial piece of kit. Approx 20mm thick plate for the body of the puller.. It eventually freed the clutch but a needed an extension pipe on the wrench and I still had to give it a 'tap' through the starter hole. Be sure you use the correct 3 studs the later verto uses a different thread ( both sets come with the kits)

#9 seria

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 04:22 AM

Thanks everyone. Will give it a go.
Cheers.

#10 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 07:24 AM

Use a BREAKER BAR, Yes flywheels can be a pain to get off, but be patient.....

#11 The Matt

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 09:03 AM

Use a BREAKER BAR, Yes flywheels can be a pain to get off, but be patient.....


Yeah, sometimes it's even worth leaving them under tension on the puller, going off for a ciggy or a cuppa, then coming back to have another go! :thumbsup:

#12 mk=john

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 11:12 AM

Yes, be patient with the flywheel. I have a pre-veto clutch and the flywheel can be a bugger to remove. Sometimes its best to have an assistant to tap the back of the flywheel (with an ally or brass bar), while you tension the puller.

The flywheel will eventually suddenly drop off....it can be quite scary the first time as it drops off very suddenly!!

I am not sure about verto, but on a pre-verto set up Imake sure the 1 & 4 cylinder pistons are at about TDC as there is a key which my otherwise jam making flywheel removal virtually impossible!!

Done wimp on tighteling the flywheel bolt when the flywheel goes back on, torque it up properly to the specified value, plus a little bit more.

#13 seria

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Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:41 AM

Thanks everyone. The clutch was out, change the oil seal clutch bearing and fix back with no problem. Now I am changing the rubber cone to coil spring. Here i am stuck again. How do you remove the knuckle joint at the end of the trumpet? Is it screw on or just slot in.
Thanks.

#14 The Matt

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Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:53 AM

The knuckles just slide in. But whilst you're in there I'd be replacing the knuckle joints anyway as they are nice and cheap! :thumbsup:

#15 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:58 AM

Parallel punch down the middle of the trumpet, and smack with large hammer




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