12 replies to this topic

[Tomm]

Right, minidave delivered my 85 mayfair the other night, wacked it on the drive as it was rather late, went out thismorning wacked some petrol in it went to drive it round to my garage and I seemed to have cluctch problems.

well i put the car uin neutural, started it, engaged the clutch and then went to select 1st but there was no movement at all. At this moment i was rather confused as dave said that he was driving the car round the other day no problems at all. I thought that the carpet behind the clutch may have been restricting travel so i ripped all that out and tried again but the same thing happened? could not select the gear, so i turned the car off and selected first as i thought it may have been some thing to do with the car but no slid in fine... then leaving the car in first i went to start the engine but it just jumped forward which made it clear to me thati had clutch problems.

What could this be? I have a spare 998 and bx in the garage so whatever it is it shouldnt be to much of a problem to sort although i dont fancy stripping the whole lot down to start again!

Any advice on what it could be?

[Ste84]

Do you mean you can put it in gear with he engine off but can't with it running?

I had this problem a few weeks ago. My clutch slave cylinder was shot (seemed completely sized when I took it off even though I'd been driving it a week before hand). £20 for a new cylinder and fitted it myself in half an hour but get someone to press the clutch and look to see wether the rod which comes out of the slave is being pushed. if there's no movement then it's a fault in the hydrulic system, could be the master cylinder and not the slave if this is so, but more likely to be the slave.

[Tomm]

I have a spare fully working clutch slave cylender so that wont be a problem but i cant see it being this as it was driving the day before it was delivered to me as far as i am aware.

What would have happend th the cylender for it to not be working propery?

[TOMMO0302]

The seals could be gone or the rod corroded. Have you got someone else to push the clutch pedal whilst you check the movement of the arm? As it might not be hydraulics..

[Phaeton]

Is there any fluid in the master cylinder? Also I had mine seize up on me & it was the shaft that actually pushes the clutch plate, but in that case the pedal was solid & wouldn't move.

Alan...

[Tomm]

I will just go and have a better look and let you know!

[taffy1967]

If your clutch fluids dropped, then you probably just need new slave cylinder seals.

Common problem really and I once had seals go on a 12 month old Mini and yet my current Mini will be 17 years old at the end of this year (we've owned it for over 13 years) and it's using the same seals.

[Tomm]

OH well i suppose it will be best to change the slave cylinders then and top it with fresh fluid...

I have a Cylinder with ood seals at the moment so that wont be a problem but what do i do with fluids? is it just a simple case of taking it of and replacing it with another?

This mini is about ten years younder than my old City and the seals on the city are ace haha!

[minidaves]

urm never drove it, i only had it running. i guess either the clutch has corroded to the flywheel so a quick 4th gear rock with foor on clutch should solve this or the slave cylinder is shot

dave

[Tomm]

oh i swore you said you was driving it dave, meh i cant remeber haha, so what you recon give it a wee rock in 4th and then if this doesnt sole the probelm then its the slave ?

Ok i will try that tommorow!

[Tomm]

Right,

ui had a go at changing my slave cylinder today, went to take the working one off of my old car and get a bit of practice in before working on my new pride and joy. I removed the ruber boot and found the small split pin in the bottom and i cant get the thing out for love nor money!

Any advice?

how do i go about rebleading the clutch?

Edited by tomm, 26 March 2007 - 08:33 PM.

[Bass Man]

If you can't remove the split pin just cut it off, you are going to use a new one to replase it anyway.....

Bleeding is easy with a one man kit, just connect up, fill M/C with fluid, loosen the nipple 1/4 turn and pump away until you start to feel resistance. When you start to feel resistance keep an eye on the fluid level in the M/C and keep pumping until there are no air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple.

If you have changed the m/c this can take a lot of pumping to prime, once it is primed things happen very quickly, there isn't a lot of fluid in there and it is easy to pump the m/c dry and reintroduce air. Even with the one man kit it is easier with two people.

[Tomm]

oh so its pretty much the same as bleeding a set of brakes on a bike?

yeh i might cut the old one off but i need to keep this one good so i can put it on my new car.