6 replies to this topic

[Daze]

Sorry to bring up yet another distributor/coil/ballast thread, but I couldn't find another on the search which helped.

I've now installed my 1989 MG metro 1275 in my Mini and I'm having problems starting it. There's a few other issues to iron out, but one of them which I discovered was that I have a very weak spark and I believe this is due to using a non-ballast coil on a ballast set-up.

I am using the standard MG metro dizzy at the moment with a Lucas sports coil (the gold one). My old engine, a 998 A+ non-metro, was a 1982, indicating its probably a non-ballast set-up?

My question is then, how can I convert to use a ballast set-up? Or how can I run it on a non-ballast set-up?

I am planning on buying a performance distributor, coil and ignition pack from H&H Ignition shortly anyway, but was hoping to get the engine running before I buy that. Don't have the funds at the moment. Also, I am hoping to re-do most of the loom on the front, so ideally, I would like to route new power straight from the fuse box, or wherever it comes from - direct - if that makes sense?

Thanks.

[Dan]

Are you talking about the electronic type distributor?

I think we have established once and for all that the electronic ignition coil is non-ballasted. In any event the module definitely needs a full 12v.

DO NOT use a Lucas Sports Coil with any electronic ignition system. You don't need to and it can be damaging to both the coil and the module. You may have already fried the module and that may be why you have a weak spark. Electronic ignition naturally produces spark energy equivalent to a Sports Coil in a contact breaker ignition system anyway. ONLY use the genuine electronic ignition type coil with the 64DE4 dizzy. Try a standard coil to see if it helps. The gold Sports Coil is for non-ballasted, contact breaker type ignition systems only.

Edited by Dan, 19 March 2007 - 05:34 PM.

[Daze]

Thanks Dan.

OK, I'll just clear up on a few points. The gold Sports coil I am using at the moment was my old coil working on my 998 A+. That had the standard distribution with an electronic ignition module. This worked like this for 10,000 miles and 2 years, without problems.

The dizzy on the MG metro engine I have is indeed another electronic one (ie, doesn't have points). Just a rotor arm, nothing else.

When you say the standard one, do you mean this one on the Minispares site: http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=38291 or this one? http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=35392

Just a reminder again, the engine in question is an 1989 MG Metro 1275 with original distributor and ignition module.

[Dan]

No, THIS ONE. GCL143 Coil Electronic Ignition. The clue's in the name . Some aftermarket electronic modules (specifically the Aldon/Pertronix version) can survive for a while with a Sports Coil as they are in theory designed to work with any coil that the contact breaker system would use but ultimately they all fail eventually when used with it. There is a genuine Aldon performance coil that will work with that system indefinitely. I'm not lying or making this up, electronic modules don't like and don't need a Sports Coil and there is no Sports Coil that is compatible with the module used in the 64DE4 dizzy. Electronic ignition generates up to 36,000 volts from a standard coil and that is more than ample.

[Daze]

Thanks Dan for the info. I believe and understand what you're saying.

I am still a tad confused though. Regardless of my previous set-up, I need to know how to get my Metro engine running. Like I said, I am hoping to buy a performance distributor kit from H&H soon, but was hoping to do that after this engine runs. Is it worth buying it now and fitting it as a complete kit (includes new dizzy, coil, ignition module, instructions!! etc)?

I don't particularly want to spend out £20-odd on a coil or other parts which will no longer be needed in a few months time. I am just trying to start this engine for a minute or two, just to confirm its a good runner with good oil pressure, etc. Clutch, gear-linkage and driveshafts are not attached!

Thanks again!

[Dan]

If the module has been fried by the coil then it isn't going to be starting anything It might not have been and it might still work with the right coil but you have to consider it. Still got your 998 dizzy? Try that and its own coil just to get the engine running. It won't be any great shakes for actually driving but it will start and run the engine. Or it could not be the dizzy and coil causing the problem at all but it does sound like it is from what you've said.

Sure it's not just timed way off? How have you checked the spark strength?

[Daze]

Thanks for your reply again Dan.

After speaking yesterday to a few Mini guru's I know, I believe that the timing is a full 180 degree's out. I think. I am giving up on starting this engine anyway for the time being. Among this and other things, I think I have decided to go for a full engine kit from MED.

Thanks again for the help!!