Hey!
Im going to buy this camkit ( http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=35808 ), for my pre a+ engine.. But i have been told, that I just need another oilpump to make my engine compatibel, is that right? And which oilpump should i choose for a roadengine?
I have also notices that my coreplugs are badly corroded, so I want to replace them.. Are they easy to replace? how?!
And last! I wont to mount my coil on the clutchhousing, but i cant figure out what thread it is?!
Best regards JP
Questions!
Started by
Wired
, Mar 20 2007 11:08 PM
6 replies to this topic
#2
dklawson
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Posted 21 March 2007 - 03:08 AM
Whenever you're tearing an engine apart, it's a prudent move to install a new oil pump. Most new cams (and presumably this one) will be "slot drive". Any slot drive pump will work. However, assuming your engine is not a turbo and not going to become a turbo, stick with the "regular" pumps although you could go with a high-performance one. What that means is the fit of the pump components is a little better and the reduced clearances result in higher flow and slightly better pressure. There is a chance that you may have to tap an additional hole in the block if your new pump uses a different bolt pattern than your existing pump. This is not hard or tricky. Bolt the pump up using the fastener(s) that do line up and use the pump body itself as a jig to locate any additional tapped hole(s).
EDIT: Sorry, I neglected your other questions.
If the core plugs aren't leaking, why replace them? If you must, take a small chisel and place its point in the center of the plug such that its blade is vertical. Strike with a hammer and the chisel will punch through. Tap the chisel sideways to rock the plug so you can lever it out. Clean the hole in the block with fine sandpaper or ScotchBrite to remove rust. When fitting the new plugs, smear a little bit of sealant around the rim (if you wish... it isn't always necessary) and hold the plug up against the hole in the block. Find a large socket that just fits inside the plug and use it as a drift so you can hammer the new plug into the block.
You want to mount the coil on the clutch housing? Well I'm not sure what tapped hole(s) you'd like to use for that. Hopefully others will be able to advise you. However, I think you'll find that most of the threads will be imperial, probably coarse thread, and probably 5/16 or 3/8" in diameter.
EDIT: Sorry, I neglected your other questions.
If the core plugs aren't leaking, why replace them? If you must, take a small chisel and place its point in the center of the plug such that its blade is vertical. Strike with a hammer and the chisel will punch through. Tap the chisel sideways to rock the plug so you can lever it out. Clean the hole in the block with fine sandpaper or ScotchBrite to remove rust. When fitting the new plugs, smear a little bit of sealant around the rim (if you wish... it isn't always necessary) and hold the plug up against the hole in the block. Find a large socket that just fits inside the plug and use it as a drift so you can hammer the new plug into the block.
You want to mount the coil on the clutch housing? Well I'm not sure what tapped hole(s) you'd like to use for that. Hopefully others will be able to advise you. However, I think you'll find that most of the threads will be imperial, probably coarse thread, and probably 5/16 or 3/8" in diameter.
Edited by dklawson, 21 March 2007 - 03:17 AM.
#4
Guess-Works.com
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Posted 21 March 2007 - 09:53 AM
I have my coil on the transfer case (above the starter motor) and there are two 5/16" UNF threaded holes in the right place...
Only issue is, if yours is a modern mini ( ie one with the air intake elbow coming through the inner wing ) it wont fit... as the gap between that and the dizzy will not be big enough for the coil to sit.
Only issue is, if yours is a modern mini ( ie one with the air intake elbow coming through the inner wing ) it wont fit... as the gap between that and the dizzy will not be big enough for the coil to sit.
#5
Dan
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Posted 21 March 2007 - 11:02 AM
Fit a Mini Spares Sureflow oil pump, they are the best. You don't need a Turbo version, just a standard type but steer well clear of a genuine Rover / Unipart oil pump because they are rubbish. All Sureflow pumps will fit all blocks because they have many bolt patterns in the body and you just use whichever layout of bolts your old pump had but with any new pump you must ALWAYS dismantle it and inspect it before fitting. Clean it out, check it actually turns and moves oil. Make sure it is very clean and dry then smear the inside of it and the gasket with cam assembly grease (NOT normal grease) before re-building and fitting it.
Genuine pumps are so poorly made with such wide tollerances that they are nearly worn out when new. This is why so many people have so much trouble getting oil pressure in a newly assembled engine. Use a Sureflow pump and you will get pressure almost instantly and retain oil in the engine very well while switched off.
Genuine pumps are so poorly made with such wide tollerances that they are nearly worn out when new. This is why so many people have so much trouble getting oil pressure in a newly assembled engine. Use a Sureflow pump and you will get pressure almost instantly and retain oil in the engine very well while switched off.
#6
Wired
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Posted 21 March 2007 - 12:36 PM
Cant find the correct Sureflow pump on their webshop, can only find this one: http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=37564
#7
icklemini
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Posted 21 March 2007 - 07:09 PM
thats a pin drive pump.. no good if you have a slot drive cam..
http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=32665 will do the job (if its a big bore engine)
as Dan has said - take it apart and make sure it is spotlessly clean - also check the clearances (details in the haynes)
a lot of 'new' oil pumps are way out on tolerances.!!
hth,
Dave
http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=32665 will do the job (if its a big bore engine)
as Dan has said - take it apart and make sure it is spotlessly clean - also check the clearances (details in the haynes)
a lot of 'new' oil pumps are way out on tolerances.!!
hth,
Dave
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