im replacing them, and id like to ask..... can i do it without the tool. i have been told i can do it with a screw driver and an assitant. also, are there only 4? because i got a head set, and there are only 4 in it.
replacing valve stem oil seals
Started by
psycho mini driver
, Oct 22 2004 07:21 PM
3 replies to this topic
#1
psycho mini driver
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Posted 22 October 2004 - 07:21 PM
#2
mini90
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Mini Mad
Posted 22 October 2004 - 08:06 PM
You are asking for grief doing it without stripping the head down. There are only 4 in a normal set, you can buy 4 more seperately for the exhaust valves normally they are only fitted to the inlets.
#3
Guess-Works.com
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Posted 22 October 2004 - 10:10 PM
You can do it with the head on, but you will need a specialist tool for compressing the spring... like this one....
OHV Spring Compressor
and some method of preventing the valve from dissapearing into the combustion chamber....
There are two ways I've heard of doing this..
The first is with the use of a compressor and an adaptore which is stuck into the spark plug hole. Adaptor
The second is the use of a length of cord which is threaded into the bore through the sparkplug hole ( leaving a little tail to remove it !! ) and then rotating the crank to squash the cord up against the bottom of the valves...
Or
Remove the Head.
OHV Spring Compressor
and some method of preventing the valve from dissapearing into the combustion chamber....
There are two ways I've heard of doing this..
The first is with the use of a compressor and an adaptore which is stuck into the spark plug hole. Adaptor
The second is the use of a length of cord which is threaded into the bore through the sparkplug hole ( leaving a little tail to remove it !! ) and then rotating the crank to squash the cord up against the bottom of the valves...
Or
Remove the Head.
#4
dklawson
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Posted 23 October 2004 - 01:44 AM
Guessworks is absolutely right. The tool he posted the link for is ideal. I made my own version of that tool and replaced my seals as a stopgap measure until I could rebuild my engine.
Skip the compressed air method of holding the valves up. The collets/keepers are frequently stuck so tightly to the valve stem and spring washer that it takes a lot of force (and or the whack of a hammer) to dislodge them. This typically opens the valve if the compressed air method is used. I found the tried and true method of a length of clean cotton roap worked much better.
Once you've got the keepers off... back the crank off just a couple of degrees to lower the rope and free the valve (just a wee bit). Try and wiggle the valve from side to side with the seals removed. If you can feel more than just the slightest motion you need to have new guides installed. New seals will help oil burning only for a short period if the guides are worn.
Skip the compressed air method of holding the valves up. The collets/keepers are frequently stuck so tightly to the valve stem and spring washer that it takes a lot of force (and or the whack of a hammer) to dislodge them. This typically opens the valve if the compressed air method is used. I found the tried and true method of a length of clean cotton roap worked much better.
Once you've got the keepers off... back the crank off just a couple of degrees to lower the rope and free the valve (just a wee bit). Try and wiggle the valve from side to side with the seals removed. If you can feel more than just the slightest motion you need to have new guides installed. New seals will help oil burning only for a short period if the guides are worn.
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