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New water pump


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#1 nicmate

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:58 AM

Hello. Firstly want to say how great and helpful this forum has been so far! ^_^ Being a bit of a nobbie when it comes to all this mechanical type stuff, the forum has been invaluable. But I can't seem to work out how you flush the water system before fitting a new water pump. Can anyone give me a "Nobbie guide to flushing your cooling system"?

Edited by nicmate, 26 March 2007 - 08:58 AM.


#2 Big_Adam

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:14 AM

How to empty out coolent;

1) Locate radiator bottom hose (passenger side of engine, down the back (furthest from grill) side of rad)
2) Remove spring clip from bottom hose of rad from the lower point on the rad
3) Once clip is removed, yank the hose off.
4) wait for water to drain out of bottom of rad.

Simple, no?

If that don't work (as the bottom hose clip is a right pain to get to) then try undoing the clip on the pump end of the bottom house, then unto the rad top mount and bottom mount (need to take grill off to get to the bottom bolt of rad) then pull the shroud and pipes off in one go,

#3 nicmate

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:24 AM

Cheers for that. I remember reading something about flushing the system with running water, first one way, and then back flushing it. Any idea what that means? And if so, how to do it?

#4 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:31 AM

It's a quick way to flush out any deposits.....

Disconnect the heater pipe on the head (by the tap) and connect hose pipe, switch on hose ! Standback or you'll get wet...

Obviously this does not drain the system... also do it with cold engine...

as BA says, to drain the system easiest way is to disconnect the bottom hose... but replacing the water pump, you may aswell remove the rad anyway as it gives you better access...

#5 nicmate

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 10:41 AM

Excellent. Thanks for the tips. On a completely different matter, Just had the weirdest thing happen. Been running rich for ages and it didn't seem to matter how long I turned the adjuster in on the carb bottom, it wouldn't get any tighter. Whipped the carb off just now and discovered it had come off the end of the thread(!!!!!!) popped it back on and wound it up and it sorted out everything you would expect, tick-over and all that, but also it seems to have fixed the cracked manifold!!!!!! Howzaboutthat then?!? Still gonna get that LCB though as I'm quite sure that it's not really possible....

#6 Big_Adam

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 11:13 AM

LCB is the wrong type of manifold for your engine mate. Want a cooperfreeflow manifold.

#7 nicmate

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 01:27 PM

LCB is the wrong type of manifold for your engine mate. Want a cooperfreeflow manifold.

That's the fella. Someone was trying to tell me they were the same thing the other day, but doesn't the freeflow all go into 1 and a LCB have a Y piece? Is that the only difference, or am i talking through my a**e anyway?

#8 Big_Adam

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 01:37 PM

no. the freeflow is shaped weird so all the exhaust gases are travling at the same speed when they meet (I think). Were as a lcb just big bore madness for bigger engines.

edit

Posted Image<< LCB

Posted Image << Frreflow!

Edited by Big_Adam, 26 March 2007 - 01:40 PM.


#9 nicmate

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 05:05 PM

Oh yeah, I see. Cheers for the pics. I'll know what to look out for when I get one!




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