Interesting night, started with High Rake white roughish for about 5 miles but good fun some amusing NAM sections in it sort of square left slot 10metre right slot 180 thru gate parallel to the left slot pick up a code left slot back on the track, loads of them all night. Lots of whites and Yellows that should have been white.
Managed the first half without going OTL. Car was just not quick enough in the second half too many hills and Beeley white that was ROUGH beached it stuck solid on a rock under the guard, had to get rocked off by 3 crews as we blocked it. went OTL so cut most of the 3rd card 13 sections. Had to hang about best part of an hour before we could start again, but cleaned most of the fourth card which wasn't difficult mostly run in to the finish non comp.
Damage ripped off a wheel arch, BENT the front of the sump guard this is 1/4 steel God knows what I hit. Several dints in my nice new exhaust, one loose headlamp, one sealed beam little reflector thing inside fell off? few more dents in the floor, battery box dinted, bent wheel, usual stuff come loose.
Reasonable result 26th overall and 6th in class means I hold my 5th in Class in the championship and pull a bit further ahead. Next round is really rough but it's on flatter ground hoping for about the same placing if I can get through.
Kev

061 Road Rally
Started by
mini90
, Oct 23 2004 08:26 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 October 2004 - 08:26 PM
#2
Posted 23 October 2004 - 09:32 PM
This sounds like a complete rave... but hey, would a landrover be more suitable ???
Just keep us informed, and I may thorw a project car together just to have a go...
What sort of spec / mods should one be looking at ??
Just keep us informed, and I may thorw a project car together just to have a go...
What sort of spec / mods should one be looking at ??
#3
Posted 24 October 2004 - 06:24 AM
Landies are banned because they ripthe road up too much, The theory is that you can do an event in a standard road car, very few do more than once. It is a real blast and legal .
I'll PM you my mods to keep the Mini alive had 1 breakdown in 2 years. If anybody else wants them I'll post them up.
I'll PM you my mods to keep the Mini alive had 1 breakdown in 2 years. If anybody else wants them I'll post them up.
#4
Posted 24 October 2004 - 03:20 PM
I lot of what you said has lost me, I am not up on rally speak :saywhat: , but it sounds fun, if a little damaging to your car

#5
Posted 24 October 2004 - 09:01 PM
Sorry that was written for my web site NAM is not as map, slots are turns usally in degrees square 90deg then in 10 metre 180deg running parrelel. OTL is outside time limit ,a cut is missing part of the route card are route cards. Whites are unmettaled roads on the Ordance Survey maps. Will write the next one in English.
It can be damaging the Min I use is built purely for Rallying. A lot of people use there daily driver just don't push as hard on the whites.
It can be damaging the Min I use is built purely for Rallying. A lot of people use there daily driver just don't push as hard on the whites.
#6
Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:22 PM
hw do i get into it?
#7
Posted 27 October 2004 - 06:53 AM
do you need a rally licence?
#8
Posted 27 October 2004 - 06:32 PM
How'd you get started???
The wife says you need to be raving for a start , fair comment !
You will need a Nat B NON RACE licence bout £30 a year no test needed. Need to be a member of an MSA Registered Club usualy about £10 a year. That is to do the full on Road Rallies.of betwen 130 and 200 miles anywhere in the UK.
To get a taster contact your local Motor Club and ask about 12 cars and Scatters, these are cut down versions run early evening over less demanding roads normally about 50 miles and ending at a pub. you don't need a licence for these, or to mod the car ( a GOOD set of spots is useful though and some decent interior lighting for map reading))
I'll post up a copy of mods on my car and alo so the bare minimum to get round and survive a bit later got to go out tonight so will sort it for Thursday.
Kev
The wife says you need to be raving for a start , fair comment !
You will need a Nat B NON RACE licence bout £30 a year no test needed. Need to be a member of an MSA Registered Club usualy about £10 a year. That is to do the full on Road Rallies.of betwen 130 and 200 miles anywhere in the UK.
To get a taster contact your local Motor Club and ask about 12 cars and Scatters, these are cut down versions run early evening over less demanding roads normally about 50 miles and ending at a pub. you don't need a licence for these, or to mod the car ( a GOOD set of spots is useful though and some decent interior lighting for map reading))
I'll post up a copy of mods on my car and alo so the bare minimum to get round and survive a bit later got to go out tonight so will sort it for Thursday.
Kev
#9
Posted 28 October 2004 - 08:23 PM
Mods to keep Mini alive
Shell needs to be good and strong to start by that I mean the base shell not the wings front panel these are easy replacements. If you can seam weld the Subs and add triangle bracing pieces at the corners. Add a peice of 3/16 plate under the rear sub, Strengthen the tie bar mounting point.
Solid mount the subframes use poly bushes everywhere else, HEAVY DUTY tie bars a must, Good shockers ( I use Spax) Change the shocker mounting pins for Heavy Duty
I use stock 8.4 discs and stock calipers with green stuff, Ferodo shoes, and Steel Flexi pipes.
You will need a Sump guard this need to be heavy Mine is home made 1/4 x11/2 steel bar with 3/16 sheet I use six bars welded together with an 1" gap between each bar and then skinned with 3/16steel plate, bolted to the front of the sub and wings to the side made 0f 1/4 steel x 3" wide bend the front and back upwards so they don't dig in.
Skid the exhaust if you can so the edges of the silences are protected. Tyres to start use 155-145/70 on steel rims, I like Mich MMX they grip well on the whites and are ok on tarmac but thats down to individual choice 165/60 tend to slip on the wet grassy places and puncture easily.
Engine whatever you've got I usually use a 1293 but for the last event I used a 1000 of aboout 998 Cooper spec and did ok.make sure it's waterproof silicone sealant round the dizzy cap + rubber gloves GOOD leads I use NGK. The box will take a pasting that's why I'm on the 1000, last box died, I like the Metro Turbo clutch plate works well. Cut the scoop off the heater air intake in the engine compartment flush with the inner wing this will save gallons of water pouring into the car when you meet a deep ford
Lighting you can only use 2 spots these need to be good Cibie Oscar are best but I like Raydyot hell Raisers not quite so deep at the back so easier to fit , 100w bulbs need to be relayed and switched so they can be turned off and just normal lights used, you can upgrade the heads too, don't use Angels you will fail scrutineering.
Interior Change the seats for buckets and a decent wheel not too small you will be twiddling it a lot. Caravan strip light battery powered strapped to the pass sun visor and a flexi map reading light. Extra instruments by all means dash has to stay where it is but you can do what you want with it chip all the sound deadening out and use cheap mats.
that should keep you going for a start till you gain experience.
Kev
Shell needs to be good and strong to start by that I mean the base shell not the wings front panel these are easy replacements. If you can seam weld the Subs and add triangle bracing pieces at the corners. Add a peice of 3/16 plate under the rear sub, Strengthen the tie bar mounting point.
Solid mount the subframes use poly bushes everywhere else, HEAVY DUTY tie bars a must, Good shockers ( I use Spax) Change the shocker mounting pins for Heavy Duty
I use stock 8.4 discs and stock calipers with green stuff, Ferodo shoes, and Steel Flexi pipes.
You will need a Sump guard this need to be heavy Mine is home made 1/4 x11/2 steel bar with 3/16 sheet I use six bars welded together with an 1" gap between each bar and then skinned with 3/16steel plate, bolted to the front of the sub and wings to the side made 0f 1/4 steel x 3" wide bend the front and back upwards so they don't dig in.
Skid the exhaust if you can so the edges of the silences are protected. Tyres to start use 155-145/70 on steel rims, I like Mich MMX they grip well on the whites and are ok on tarmac but thats down to individual choice 165/60 tend to slip on the wet grassy places and puncture easily.
Engine whatever you've got I usually use a 1293 but for the last event I used a 1000 of aboout 998 Cooper spec and did ok.make sure it's waterproof silicone sealant round the dizzy cap + rubber gloves GOOD leads I use NGK. The box will take a pasting that's why I'm on the 1000, last box died, I like the Metro Turbo clutch plate works well. Cut the scoop off the heater air intake in the engine compartment flush with the inner wing this will save gallons of water pouring into the car when you meet a deep ford
Lighting you can only use 2 spots these need to be good Cibie Oscar are best but I like Raydyot hell Raisers not quite so deep at the back so easier to fit , 100w bulbs need to be relayed and switched so they can be turned off and just normal lights used, you can upgrade the heads too, don't use Angels you will fail scrutineering.
Interior Change the seats for buckets and a decent wheel not too small you will be twiddling it a lot. Caravan strip light battery powered strapped to the pass sun visor and a flexi map reading light. Extra instruments by all means dash has to stay where it is but you can do what you want with it chip all the sound deadening out and use cheap mats.
that should keep you going for a start till you gain experience.
Kev
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users