Our carb sprite had a timing problem that made the temp skyrocket (now fixed), but now the engine temp seems completely connected to ambient temp. This is the first mini I have had with a Rover fitted fan (which ammuses me no end; its so modern!) but what I am trying to acertain is, what is normal temp behavior?
In winter temp ranges the gauge in our car stays just under half most of the time, but in traffic it goes up to 3/4 and the electric fan kicks in.
Surely the mechanical fan should keep the engine cool enough most of the time and the electric fan kick in when it is really hot (ie not in cold winter traffic)?
This car is destined (some day) to live in Spain, and I suppose I need to think about whether I should be taking steps to 'fix' it (take thermostat out etc)

Normal Engine Temperatures
Started by
flamejob
, Mar 29 2007 07:19 AM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 March 2007 - 07:19 AM
#2
Posted 29 March 2007 - 04:24 PM
Sounds like your cooling system needs a real good flushing out. The temp shouldnt realy move unless in the extremes of weather. I run a 1400 and the only time that fan has ever come on on its own was last year on the way to the british mini show down. It was one of the hotest weekends of the year. Temperature will rise, but in this weather it shouldnt move much for rather a long time at idle. Mine was idling for half an hour yesterday and the fan never came on. I think the fan switches on at 97 degrees the thermostat is 88 degrees. Just a little below the white line on the gauge is normal.
Make sure there is enough coolant in the system to start, low levels can giv symptoms like this as well.
If the water in your cooling system is anything but Blue/ Green you need to flush out the cooling system and replace it with 50/50 mix antifreeze.
The only other thing that could cause this is if the water pump has been replaced with a non genuine item with a small pressed steel impellor. That is purely speculation though.
You also havent said whether the engine is tuned or not. One very good upgrade is a two core rad.
Never remove the thermostat without fitting a blanking sleave, but then you wont have any temperature control whatso ever. Im not getting started on the reasons why, again.
Make sure there is enough coolant in the system to start, low levels can giv symptoms like this as well.
If the water in your cooling system is anything but Blue/ Green you need to flush out the cooling system and replace it with 50/50 mix antifreeze.
The only other thing that could cause this is if the water pump has been replaced with a non genuine item with a small pressed steel impellor. That is purely speculation though.
You also havent said whether the engine is tuned or not. One very good upgrade is a two core rad.
Never remove the thermostat without fitting a blanking sleave, but then you wont have any temperature control whatso ever. Im not getting started on the reasons why, again.
Edited by Mini Sprocket, 29 March 2007 - 04:28 PM.
#3
Posted 29 March 2007 - 09:38 PM
Hey Sprocket
Ta for that, I really needed a sanity check.
I'll give it a good flush out and maybe a new thermostat, though I could do the boiling water test thing. I assume it does work as the electric fan does its job.
The engine is completely standard and 29K miles, though is getting a stage one kit, as soon as I have bought some tools!
I understand the blanking sleve flow rates business too, ta for the reminder.
Ta for that, I really needed a sanity check.
I'll give it a good flush out and maybe a new thermostat, though I could do the boiling water test thing. I assume it does work as the electric fan does its job.
The engine is completely standard and 29K miles, though is getting a stage one kit, as soon as I have bought some tools!
I understand the blanking sleve flow rates business too, ta for the reminder.
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