3 replies to this topic

[Guido]

Right, alternator fitted and I'm 99% sure the right connections have been attached to the right connectors. Now, though the battery warning light comes on when I first start up the engine, goes off when I rev it to 3000 rpm and then comes back on again when revs drop to idle. I haven't taken it on a long drive and I've had a good look at the connections, cleaned up the +ve connections on the solenoid. I bought the car a week ago and fitted a new battery and new 70 amp alternator (see previous post:) I'm going to buy a multimeter tomorrow and plug in car battery charger so I'll check the power coming form the battery (should be 12 amps not on and 14 when car is running?) and check there is power coming from the alternator. Does any one have any other suggestions?

Again appreciate the help and look forward to the day I am posting repsonses not "help I'm rubbish with engines" posts

Rgds.

Matt.

[Dan]

Volts, not amps. DO NOT try to connect an ammeter directly up to the alternator, only connect a voltmeter. If you connect an ammeter directly up to a supply you will cause damage, probably to yourself as well as the car when the meter and wiring bursts into flames.

Where did you get this alternator from? I think from your other post that it is not a genuine Mini alternator since it had unusual connections. Also it seemed to have a connection normally used in diesel motors. All alternators are not interchangeable. If this unit is designed for a diesel there is no way a petrol engine will keep it turning at the right speed, especially if you are using the standard Mini pulleys. Alternators are designed for a direction of rotation and an average speed. You may be able to get a new pulley that will sort it out.

Are you using the standard loom to connect this uprated alternator? That's not entirely safe and could well result in fires.

Please don't take this the wrong way but this is not the kind of upgrade you should do without planning it properly especially if you don't know the difference between volts and amps. I really don't mean anything by that other than that it is a dangerous thing to be playing about with.

Edited by Dan, 01 April 2007 - 11:50 PM.

[Guido]

All fair points. The alternator was ordered from Panks in Norwich who recommended the alternator to me. Both the mechanics that have see it have said it is fine, i'll take it back to someone today to check it out.

Thanks for the warning on testing stuff with meters.

You're right about me not knowing what I'm doing but there is usually only one way to learn.

[Dan]

If you want a 70 amp alternator there is a genuine Lucas one available which is a direct fit. They are all new not re-con and don't cost much more than the standard one. Available from all Mini soecialists.