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Stopping an Oil Leak


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#1 starrider

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:50 PM

i know this is probably a touchy subject and i couldn't find anything in search so here goes. i have a small oil leak between the gear box and block in the front. i don't have time or the money to have it fixed properly before i move back to the states. i'm using the military's shipper and first they spray the under carriage, next they let the car sit in one spot for an hour and if there is one drop of oil on the floor it doesn't ship. it will deffinately shed a drop in an hour right now.

i'm up for any advise how to beat this. i was considering one of the stop leak additives but know they're not very good for the engine.

#2 TOMMO0302

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:56 PM

Where exactly is it coming from? You mean actually on part of the seal between the block and gearbox?

I was told that the only ways it would come from there were if the gearbox wasnt attached to the block or if there was excessive crank case pressure (which you can search for solutions on).

I am sure you probably didnt mean this, but if you meant between the gear stick and block, then it will more than likely be coming from the rod seal(assuming you have a rod change box of course, this is 'realtively' easy to solve.

You could use one of the seal replenishing additives, how good they are i am unsure of, but if you were worried about the effects on the engine, just do an oil change the other side of the pond.

Edit: If you know the exact spot it is leaking from you could just 'bodge' it temporarily, silicone seal etc?

Edited by TOMMO0302, 13 April 2007 - 06:57 PM.


#3 incrediblerog

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:03 PM

could you fix up some kind of drip tray, the picture i've got in my head is a margarine tub with two cable ties :withstupid: ! lol

#4 starrider

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:17 PM

it appears to be coming from just under the dip stick between the block and box. i've checked to make sure all the fasteners are tight and they are. i'm pretty sure i need to split the box and block and replace the gasket which is first on my list once i get her in my own garage back home. it used to leak where the gear shift rod went in but i fixed that with a new seal.

it's funny you mentioned the silicone because that is what i was thinking. do they make a heat resistant silicone?

#5 Gr4h4m

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 08:08 PM

it appears to be coming from just under the dip stick between the block and box. i've checked to make sure all the fasteners are tight and they are. i'm pretty sure i need to split the box and block and replace the gasket which is first on my list once i get her in my own garage back home. it used to leak where the gear shift rod went in but i fixed that with a new seal.

it's funny you mentioned the silicone because that is what i was thinking. do they make a heat resistant silicone?



Try chemical metal, or can you drain all of the poil out of it or do they drive it on and off the boat?

#6 Big_Adam

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 08:11 PM

Well......for a proper bodge. True amalgamation tape.

Clean the area with white spirit then slap on a layer.

http://www.tapes-dir...products_id=939

Could work. Know some people use it to fix holes in their boats.......from the outside.

#7 Dan

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 09:03 PM

Self amalgamating tape only bonds to itself though, you'd have to wrap several layers right around the engine for that to work!

As Gr4h4m says, is it possible to just ship it with no oil or will it need to be driven?

Generally oil supplements are really bad for Minis not because of the engine (it is no different from many other engines after all) but because of the gearbox. I would stick to cleaning the block really well in the area and attaching some tape, maybe some aluminium tape or similar. Or you could silicon it I suppose as you planned. Something external and temporary like that is probably best.

#8 Senile Old Git

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Posted 14 April 2007 - 07:17 AM

I used this stuff called Fortafix from http://www.stoveacce...nt_products.asp for sealing the flue on my wood burner, so I can promise this is heat resistant silicone !!

#9 jonny d

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Posted 14 April 2007 - 07:38 PM

FROST do a product called OYLTITE STIK just rub it into joint
depends how much pressure there is should'nt be much if its only
drips are you sure its not coming out of the dipstick they can leak J.D

#10 starrider

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Posted 14 April 2007 - 09:12 PM

thanks for all the options to try. i have to leave the oil in it as they have to drive it on and off the ship which in it's self scares the cr@p out of me.

i may have it stopped but won't know til i put a few miles on. i got it up on a lift today and all the front fasteners that hold the box to the block were loose. gave them a good tourqeing down and it's dry as a bone now. the bad part is now i have a fuel leak along the pipe somewhere. it just never ends.

#11 Big_Adam

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Posted 15 April 2007 - 12:29 AM

Duct Tape

Posted Image

Works for the U.S.A. lot.

#12 Silicon Skum

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Posted 15 April 2007 - 12:54 AM

it's funny you mentioned the silicone because that is what i was thinking. do they make a heat resistant silicone?


Ordinary Silicone is good for up to 200 deg C before breakdown of the material! You can get it for temps up to 600 deg C.

I doubt your engine block will get anywhere over 100 deg C, even with glycol in the mix, it will still only hit 114 deg C before boiling to steam. So even if your engine overheats a LOT, it still wont be hot enough to affect the Silicone.
If you use silicone, you will need to remove ALL oily traces on the block and box, otherwise it won't stick. Use Petrol, this will remove the oil and will evaporate leaving no oil residue. then do a quick clean with some soapy water and let it dry fully before aplying the silicone.

SS




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