8 replies to this topic

[jayc2]

ok so i've done a search and theres plenty of info about dizzys on the forum but which is the best?

Is it better to go for a aldon yellow, aldon electronic or the 123?

i'm running a morspeed 1380 with the morspeed head, think its got a gt cam in it but not sure.

morspeed say the aldon yellow is good enough but lie the idea of getting rid of the points and having selectable advance curves.

so has anyone got opinions on the different dizzys available?

cheers all

[who_loves_the_mini?]

Have you thought about running Megajolt?

[Jupitus]

You could also contact H&H ignition solutions... very helpful folks...

[Road Runner]

They told me to use the MG metro electronic one and overhauled mine to fast road and it only cost me 90 quid with a new coil.

Edited by Road Runner, 18 May 2007 - 05:36 PM.

[jayc2]

i've got a metro electronic one on it at the moment! dont know what metro though are they all the same?

[Road Runner]

I presume so but you could phone H&H and see if they can help you.

[Petes.one]

i've got a metro electronic one on it at the moment! dont know what metro though are they all the same?

Metro electronic dissies are not too difficult to modify if you are careful. You need a bit of an assortment of advance control springs from old distributors -try the wreckers - and access to someone with a MIG welder. Des Hammill's book on Ignition Systems tells you what to do.

Metro dissies have an advance of 13 - 13.5 degrees (26 - 27 on the crank) which needs to be reduced to around 10 degrees (20 crank) for a modified motor. Just a matter of a small spot of weld on the nose of the advance stop, which is then carefully filed until the correct total advance is reached.

The rate of advance needs to be increased too, so that full advance is reached by 1750 - 2000 dissy rpm (3500 - 4000 crank rpm). That's where the spare springs come in. The standard strong secondary needs to be replaced with a lighter one - one similar to the existing primary spring.

Any auto electrician can then spin your dissy up for you and tell you what the modified advance figures are, which will point you in the right direction if any changes are needed. When installed in your motor bring the revs up to 4000 rpm so that full advance is reached and set the timing to 30 degrees at the crank shaft using your strobe light. That will leave you with around 10 degrees static advance (crank), which will give a better idle with a lumpy cam.

A side benefit is the thorough clean and lube you can give your unit while it is stripped down. When you are doing your reassembly, use a thermal compound (same as the computer stuff) when reattaching the module on the side of the dissy.

The end result will produce a spark as good as any expensive alternative distributor, and for a fraction of the cost.

[jayc2]

When installed in your motor bring the revs up to 4000 rpm so that full advance is reached and set the timing to 30 degrees at the crank shaft using your strobe light. That will leave you with around 10 degrees static advance (crank), which will give a better idle with a lumpy cam.

Is that done with the vac advance connected or not?

[Petes.one]

When installed in your motor bring the revs up to 4000 rpm so that full advance is reached and set the timing to 30 degrees at the crank shaft using your strobe light. That will leave you with around 10 degrees static advance (crank), which will give a better idle with a lumpy cam.

Is that done with the vac advance connected or not?

Disconnected. When set, and the clamping bolt tightened, the advance at idle with the modified distributor will be greater than it was when unmodified. This will cause faster idling, especially when the vacuum is reconnected. Then reduce idle with the carb idle screw until you are happy with it.

If you do get hold of Des Hammill's book, he suggests that mini motors can cope with maximum advance of up to 35-36 degrees, but Marcel Chichak, who developed the 123 Ignition distributor, suggests 30 degrees is enough for modified motors. The unleaded cr*p that passes for fuel these days does not help either!

Have a look at Marcel Chichak's comments: http://www.starchak.ca/