22 replies to this topic

[Dan]

I believe that what you call sheet metal screws we call self tappers DK. I've never heard of a self tapping machine threaded screw.

[dklawson]

Thanks Dan. I thought it might be just a case of terminology.

What I referred to as a self-tapping screw looks like this:
http://www.ohiorod.c...point_screw.gif

And I think we both meant to use a screw like this:
http://www.ohiorod.c...screw_point.gif

[Gibbon]

Perhaps "glued" was the wrong choice of word too. The mastic I used remains supple enough to be easily cut if needed. To remove the chrome strip and channel all I have to do is run a blade down each side of the joint. I don't see how water can go anywhere except down the pipes in the door ???

[dklawson]

Thanks. I feel better for your car now. I was concerned you'd never get the parts off again. However, I still don't see how a little mastic is enough to hold this in place. Keep in mind that with changes in temperature the component dimensions will change. There might be an occasion where someone leans against your car and the glass falls right out in to the seats. I put a little sealant around the screw holes to keep water from going through them and under the chrome strip and (like you) I sealed the chrome strip ends to the door frame so any water will be directed into the trough and down the tubes.

[Gibbon]

Thanks for your remarks about temperature changes etc. I will keep an eye on it !

The stuff is extremely adhesive, so fitted with only a very thin layer. I pushed quite firmly on the bottom of the windows a week or so after fitting them to check... If I see any movement in the coming months I'll do them with the screws in place and a dab of sealant on the heads like you say.


edit: there was no trace of the outer trim on mine... is that a Cooper thing, or have mine gone AWOL?

Edited by Gibbon, 25 May 2007 - 05:55 PM.

[dklawson]

I think both the Cooper and -S had the outside window trim. It's a strip that goes all around the glass along the window frame. They use special washers (which are NLA) riveted to the door to secure it. For my car I had to make washers to replace the ones that had corroded too badly to re-use.

[gmb101]

thats fantastic help - thanks very much dklawson. If you fancy fitting them for me let me know

[dklawson]

Final Post:

I found my copy of the Lindsay Porter restoration manual last night and looked over the section regarding sliding windows. Porter used mastic everywhere. LOTS and LOTS of mastic. However, they also used the screws.

The procedure in the Porter book is several steps shorter than my list of steps. They have you fit the window track assembly to the door only once after the channels are trimmed to fit. With the gooped up assembly held in place on the door they have you drill the holes and insert the screws immediately after. This eliminates the multiple fitting steps I listed. This may be easier but you'll need a steady hand, a helper, and a small drill motor to carry out the sequence Porter suggests.