25 replies to this topic

[daniel_johno]

today i fitted an uprated head to my mini (1275 A+) which i got off my dads marcos engine, it looks like a stage 3 head from an A series. Today it drove ok when i took it for a quick drive but just now it cut out and is idling roughly. I checked the oil and it is white so there is water in it, although it was fine before i changed the head.
When i removed my origional head i forgot to drain the water so when i removed the head water went everywhere, in the bores, down the oil galleries etc..... Me being stupid thought it would burn off and continued changing the head.

Is the problem likely to be due to water which went everywhere or is there a way i could test that it is not a problem with the head causing it? The head looks quite old although i lapped the valves and fitted new oil stem seals.

I basically dont want to change the oil to then realise its a head problem and need to change the oil again, the water connection that fro the bottom of the head to the water pump has been blocked off since its on a A+ engine and was blocked on its origional engine. Will this cause any problems?

Thanks for looking

Daniel

[Cater_Racer]

today i fitted an uprated head to my mini (1275 A+) which i got off my dads marcos engine, it looks like a stage 3 head from an A series. Today it drove ok when i took it for a quick drive but just now it cut out and is idling roughly. I checked the oil and it is white so there is water in it, although it was fine before i changed the head.
When i removed my origional head i forgot to drain the water so when i removed the head water went everywhere, in the bores, down the oil galleries etc..... Me being stupid thought it would burn off and continued changing the head.

Is the problem likely to be due to water which went everywhere or is there a way i could test that it is not a problem with the head causing it? The head looks quite old although i lapped the valves and fitted new oil stem seals.

I basically dont want to change the oil to then realise its a head problem and need to change the oil again, the water connection that fro the bottom of the head to the water pump has been blocked off since its on a A+ engine and was blocked on its origional engine. Will this cause any problems?

Thanks for looking

Daniel

Has the water level gone down?
Oil is cheaper than engines Daniel, drain it out, change the filter.

[Big_Adam]

Mix is going to change too.

[Jammy]

Yea, I would change the oil. From the fact that you lapped the valves in I would say your quite technically adept, but I'll check anyway that you used a new head gasket and tightened the head down in the right order?

[daniel_johno]

yeah used new head and manifold gaskets, tightened head down to 50 lb ft starting in the middle and working in a circular motion.

I ws just wondering if there was a method of determining if the head was causing the mix as i would change it back to th origional before i changed the oil.

Bought some oil and a new filter so ill go get it changed now and hope for the best. Should i flush the engine aswell to get rid of the white sludge?

Thanks for all the advice

Daniel

[Dan]

Yes you should flush it for quarter of an hour or so probably. You should drain both the oil and the coolant for a head swap so if you didn't that probably is the cause as you think. It will be running rough if you haven't tuned it for the new head, only after it's been retuned can you tell if it's working properly without having full on diagnostic equipment.

[minidaves]

if not an unleaded head it will not last five minutes with the valves lapped in abd tghe valve with disapear into the valve seats as the work hardened bit and lead memeory is gone

dave

[daniel_johno]

if not an unleaded head it will not last five minutes with the valves lapped in abd tghe valve with disapear into the valve seats as the work hardened bit and lead memeory is gone

dave

Will that happen even with the castrol valvemaster i use?

Daniel

[Big_Adam]

Will that happen even with the castrol valvemaster i use?

Daniel

Nope, thats why you use it. ... ... well it probly still dose a bit tho.

[blacktulip]

have u thought that the new head could be warped? try a compression test i say then at least u will know if the head is sitting flat to the block and it will only take 2 mins.

[daniel_johno]

i changed the oil and water last night and it doesnt seem to be mixing anymore but its still running very badly.

I tried setting the timing to 10/12/14 deg btdc but it never made a difference so think ill just have to revert back to the old head.

Daniel

[TOMMO0302]

You cant have expected it to run amazingly well without tuning it to do so first surely? It is probably just running rough simply because your carb isnt setup to run with this new head, as opposed to the head being knackered?

[daniel_johno]

problem i have is there is no where local that tunes engines and the only rolling road is a place that just does chips and has an awful reputation.

The engine when running is rocking quite alot at idle.

Problem i think i might have with it is i filled the tank up the night before i changed the head and never put in the castrol valve master as i forgot to take with me.
I changed the head then put it in before i drove it, would the unleaded in the fuel lines and float bowl have damaged the lapped valves as mentioned by minidaves?
Im just thinkin of the worst cast scenarios now as i need the car for work on monday.

Daniel

[TOMMO0302]

No, they wouldnt have worn down the valves that quickly. But of course, the condition of the head is still a bit of an unknown i guess is fair to say?

Do you have a compression tester? That would definately be my next step just to check the state of your exhaust valves at least.

Edited by TOMMO0302, 26 May 2007 - 11:28 AM.

[daniel_johno]

ill go to halfords and buy one and go from there. If compression is ok across all 4 cylinders would this confirm the valves are sealing correctly aswell as the head not being warped?

if thats all ok i then have a problem with what carb needle to use. I currently have a BDL(mg metro) needle fitted. Engine spec is standard compression 1275 A+ with minisport CA2 cam (948 profile) hif 44 carb and minispares stage 1 kit and now this head providing it is ok.

Thanks for the advice

Daniel