Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Bespoke wiring loom


  • Please log in to reply
29 replies to this topic

#1 Gizzum

Gizzum

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 554 posts
  • Local Club: None atm

Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:09 PM

Guys, mainly directed at Dan...

Has anybody built there own loom from scratch. I have got to the point now where i have added a second and a third fuse box and my wiring is getting out of hand. Questions:

1. Where can i get the proper coloured wire from, other than sourcing a complete new loom.
2. Fuse Rating for each circuit. i.e. sidelights, mainlights, heater, hazards, leccy windows etc.. Is this a case of wiring each circuit, measuring the resistance and then using Ohms law to work out the current???
3. Would it be best to source a fuse panel from a different car to use?

Lots of questions I know but I need to get this right if I am going to go ahead with it! Don't want OPDEF going up in smoke!!

Cheers in advance

Jez

Edited by Gizzum, 12 June 2007 - 12:09 PM.


#2 Udo

Udo

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,670 posts
  • Location: Lincoln

Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:11 PM

Zomerzet on here made his own loom, think each curcuit has its own fuse and different fusebox etc PM him

#3 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,438 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:13 PM

for supplies try:
http://www.vehicle-w...epage/home.html
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/

#4 Jupitus

Jupitus

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,479 posts
  • Local Club: Breathemini

Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:23 PM

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/

Mutts nuttage for coloured wires :)

#5 Gizzum

Gizzum

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 554 posts
  • Local Club: None atm

Posted 12 June 2007 - 01:31 PM

Cheers Guys.. alot to start with

Thanks!

#6 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 12 June 2007 - 04:02 PM

Yes I've made my own looms. It's easy enough. For circuit capacities you don't have to measure the resistance of the circuit as the resistance of the actual wiring is negligable if the correct size has been used. You just have to add up the power usage of every item on the circuit, work out the current needed in the circuit, choose wiring of the right size and then use a fuse that has a continuous rating that is higher than needed but not too high. Various people among the suppliers listed above mae very good fuse boards. There's a lot of design work involved to do it properly but once it's done you'll have good reliable wires. Designing the earth system is just as important, remember that the earth current all adds up too, don't use skinny earth wire everywhere! And try to stick to the threee standard main earth points for everything.

I would also add Auto Electrical Supplies to the above list and a couple of American Hot-Rod companies for some more interesting and useful little bits and pieces. Places like Centech and Ron Francis Wire Works.

The correct colours to use for everything are listed as a British Standard, you should be able to find it if you search. It's BS-AU7. Most of it is also in the back of the Haynes Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual, which you might want to invest in for this project. There are a couple of books about wiring kit cars out there but I would avoid those as they deal in very basic terms, kit cars generally not having much electrical equipment. The Haynes book deals with some of the legal requirements and how systems like the wiper self parking and dim-dip lighting work as well as basic wiring practise. I found it useful anyhow.

Oh and don't wrap it all in electrical tape! Get some proper non-adhesive loom tape to hold it together.

And if you can, use thinwall cable. It makes the loom a lot smaller.

Edited by Dan, 12 June 2007 - 04:02 PM.


#7 Gizzum

Gizzum

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 554 posts
  • Local Club: None atm

Posted 13 June 2007 - 09:03 AM

Dan..

Thanks very much, very useful as always. I was thinking of using conduit all around the car to route the wires. It makes it all look alot neater.

Been looking at the BS stuff for Wire Colours...

Am i right in thinking that the mini has non standard wiring colours??? lucas wire colours.

-EDIT-

How far should I go with fusing of the circuits?

If I fuse each circuit individually I have got 24 fuses so far! I think this is a bit overkill.

Edited by Gizzum, 13 June 2007 - 10:08 AM.


#8 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 13 June 2007 - 10:54 AM

Hmm, yes. Conduit. I am dubious about conduit. I know that all modern cars use it but it does make the harness much more bulky, less flexible, stops the harness hugging curves becuase it has a plastic memory that wants to lay straight and won't fit through lots of the body holes or at least is very much harder to thread through them. I just use harness tape and some fibreglass sleeving for areas exposed to heat or possible friction. If you want conduit I think the Pole Volt have the biggest range of fittings.
They also seem to have the biggest range of harness connectors at the moment.

The Mini has colour codes that were standard when each different loom was designed, and generally the Lucas code sitcks to the BS code. I'd just ignore anything that looks wrong on an American website like that, it may be that BL cars imported into America had the loom converted to an American colour code standard or that any errors are based on different names for systems and equipment being used over here and over there. Or just mistakes.

As for fuses, don't go crazy with them but don't be scared to use enough. I have a main fuse block with 26 fuses, all but 1 being in use. This is the Metro/MPi type fuse box. The more equipment that is fed by a single fuse, the more you loose when something fails. But also the more circuits you make the more wires there are in the harness and the bigger and hotter it becomes. You have to find a compromise. There is currently a Europe wide standard about how the lighting circuits should be split but whether that applies depends on how old your car is.

#9 Gizzum

Gizzum

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 554 posts
  • Local Club: None atm

Posted 13 June 2007 - 11:47 AM

o.k. then so far i have...

horn/interior light/hazards
left indicators
right indicators
side lights left
side light right
dipped main beam left
dipped main beam right
full beam left
full beam right
heater
winscreen wipers
electric windows
door poppers control unit
door poppers left
door poppers right
brake lights
dashboard lights
rear heated winscreen
radio
front fogs
front driving lamps
rear fog
reversing lamp

Is this overkill??

#10 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 13 June 2007 - 12:17 PM

I'd put your door popper fuses in the boot, so you can get to them from outside using the key. Assuming you're dehandling it that is.

Left and right indicators need to be on one fuse, it's one complete system.

Generally the dash lighting goes on the sidelight fuse. As does the number plate lamp. It's supposed to be dash with the left sidelights and number plate with the right.

I have this:

Dipped left
Spots (not fitted but pre-wired)
Dipped right
Main left
Sidelights
Main right
Indicators and hazards
Rear fog gaurd
Front fog (not fitted but pre-wired)
Interior lighting (there's a fair bit of it on my car)
Dim dip system (not legally required on my car as it's too old but the system is a good idea)
Horn/lamp flasher (has to be like this if using the original pre-MPI stalk switch)
Ignition/engine systems
Fuel pump
Rear wash/wipe (not fitted but pre-wired)
Instruments and dash systems
Stop lamps/reverse lamps
Wash/wipe
Heater blower
Heated rear screen and timer
Stereo
Clock/brake fluid warning
Cig lighter
Alarm/immobiliser
Central locking
Immobiliser (yup, a second completely independant immobiliser as well as the alarm)

Then I also have a couple in the boot to run two additional cigarette lighter power points, one in the boot and one in the drivers side rear bin. I use these to run my cool box and stuff. There will also be towing circuits fitted to the boot fuse/relay box eventually and this box is supplied directly from the battery using a local relay controlled by a cable from an ignition source that is in the boot. I can't remember where I took it from now.

The main fusebox is run from a master fusebox using four large mega fuses. This is on the bulkhead and takes the power from the alternator/battery connection at the solenoid using large cables, splitting it into four different groups each with a mega fuse of about 60 amps I think. I can't remember, it's been a while since I built it now. The four fuses split the master power into circuits for lighting, constantly powered accessories, ignition switch pos 1 powered accessories and ignition switch pos 2 powered accessories. These four large cables then run through to the fuse distribution system and ignition switch and stuff. There are also lots of relays doing different things, but in general not more than 1 relay per circuit as multiple common relays leads to problems. So I have lots of specialist relays.

You have to consider what needs powering when and try to group things along those lines.

The system has worked very well and seems bullet proof, but may get replaced soon as I've got some new ideas.

#11 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,438 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 13 June 2007 - 12:41 PM

The Mega fuses are 30 Amps each as standard (Dan may have uprated his). I have a spare one of these fuse boxes (with cover) if you need one.
I may also have a spare 27 way fusebox and, after much searching, I have found a couple of sources of suitable crimp terminals to suit these boxes. These boxes are available new from Moss for £14 and the covers for £9 - but they don't seem to do the central strap that the cover screws to! http://www.moss-euro...ateIndexID=3479

#12 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 13 June 2007 - 05:16 PM

The Mega fuses are 30 Amps each as standard (Dan may have uprated his).


Eh? What do you mean? There's nothing standard about my wiring at all, it's not the MPi mega fuse box and it's not an MPi harness. It's in a 1984 registered Mini. I designed and made it all myself. My Mega fuse box is a Durite box from nowhere in particular and has four fuses of 50 and 60 amp ratings.

The yellow strap for fitting the cover (which is what reduces the box to 26 fuses) is hard to find. I had to get mine direct from Rover but I doubt they'll have any left now. It was hard enough to get a complete cover, strap and fusebox from them 8 years ago. I think now the best thing is to is to use an aftermarket box such as the modular boxes available from Pole Volt or Vehicle Wiring Products, that's what I intend to use next time. The other tricky thing with using the MPi box is that the mounting panel for it isn't individually available. You have to either make one, buy a complete MPi inner wing or cut one off another car. In fact it might not even be available with the wing.

I got my terminals for the box from Vehicle Wiring Products and I think they still do them, if not Pole Volt have hundreds of different terminals available. They are just an Amphenol connector of a certain type but tracking down the exact layout takes a lot of looking at books.

#13 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,438 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 13 June 2007 - 06:59 PM

The Mega fuses are 30 Amps each as standard (Dan may have uprated his).


Eh? What do you mean? There's nothing standard about my wiring at all, it's not the MPi mega fuse box and it's not an MPi harness. It's in a 1984 registered Mini. I designed and made it all myself. My Mega fuse box is a Durite box from nowhere in particular and has four fuses of 50 and 60 amp ratings.


Sorry, I wrongly assumed you'd made use of an MPi mega fuse box. My mistake.
:dozing:

#14 Gizzum

Gizzum

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 554 posts
  • Local Club: None atm

Posted 15 June 2007 - 09:43 AM

Cheers Guys.. just what I needed

Gonna be using these...

Click

And making a alloy cover fit over the top and label each fuse.

Getting excited now, and also having a mare drawing/ammending circuit diagrams!!

Thanks again. Will probably do a guide on this now!

#15 Jupitus

Jupitus

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,479 posts
  • Local Club: Breathemini

Posted 15 June 2007 - 10:04 AM

A guide would be fantastic! Those modules are sexeh :wacko:




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users