11 replies to this topic

[tino]

I know this question has probably been asked a 1'000 time's before, ive searched for about 20mins but as usual my use of the search button/function does'nt seem to be brilliant.

What I would like to know what needs to be done when I change from a A Series Engine to a A+ as I just picked a A+ engine up and would like to replace my A series engine I currently have.

My mini is a 1979 1ltr and im replacing it with a A+ engine from the 80's. Is it just a straight forward swap or is there things I have to look out for when I do it?

Thanks for any advice and replies.

tino

[minislapper]

The main thing you need to know is whether the A+ has a verto or pre-verto clutch as this is the major difference that will cause you problems.

[tino]

How do I tell the difference?

I know they both have the same starter moter

Think I understand if after reading the FAQ.... can I tell it just by the starter or do I have to look at the arm thingy. Or is it a take the cover off and look at the flywheel job?

[Jupitus]

Pre-verto has a clutch slave cylinder which is actually on the flywheel housing, the verto clutch slave cylinder sits on a separate bracket which then bolts to the housing....



... I think!

[Ethel]

I'm assuming you've got a complete engine + gearbox assembly?

Should be a straight forward swap is the new lump also 998 'n from a mini?

As far as the clutch goes Verto clutches have the slave cylinder bolted directly to the clutch cover and a much shorter, cranked, operating arm.

If you do have a Verto clutch I reckon the easiest option would be to swap the master cylinder and pipes as well. Can't remember if the master cylinders are the same bore or not but I think the hose has a bigger thread.

The alternative would be to swap the flywheel, clutch and cover over from your original engine.

If your new engine is out of a Metro it will probably have a different final drive ratio - not a problem. Depending on your wheels tyres you might end up with a higher geared car that accelerates better but screams a bit in topgear.

Also think about using the carburettor and distributor off the new lump. Best to keep the pot joints together too.

[tino]

Its off a mini, there is'nt a Dizzy with it or Carb. So will have to buy a new Dizzy im lead to believe and also just use my old carb.

Thanks for the reply's, it gives me a idea of what to look for, as before I had no clue.




Two pictures of the engine im getting. Dunno if they are any help as they don't show the Clutch side that well.

[Ethel]

Just thought of summet more important - leaded or unleaded. Have to say I'm not at all sure if they ever made an unleaded 998?

As far as the carb 'n dizzy goes they'll need setting up to give the correct mixture and advance. You can probably get a good enough match off a Metro if you can find one in the scrappers. The 998 A plus came in two flavours, high 'n low compression.

I'd want to be sure an engine runs before going to all the hassle of fitting it. I'd prefer to find one still in the car - if it's without a dizzy that's a big hole to let rain and muck in.

[Ethel]

That's not a verto clutch cover - but I am wondering what the operating arm is doing way out there though?

That dizzy has an electronic ignition conversion in it - worth having if it's the right one for the engine.

Can't quite see if it's defo an A plus lump there'd be reinforcing ribs on the block if it is.

[tino]

Well it includes...

FITTED, An AP racing up-rated clutch plate and diaphragm
FITTED, A set of standard ratio straight cut drop gears for that awesome gearbox whine.

The block, head, and gearbox attached and working.
The rocker cover,
The dizzy (without ignition module),
The starter motor & alternator
The water pump, oil filter (needs replacing), plugs (needs replacing). No plug leads.

Umm, yeh thats it. Basically, to get it working you'll need...

A set of points, or the electronic ignition kit. The electronic ignition is availabe to buy separately by the buyer.
A radiator. Again, this is available to buy separately at a very low price.
A coil. Again, available to buy separately when buying.
You'll need to buy an oil filter, some oil, some plugs & plug leads.

Ive seen the car with the engine in it running before it was taken out, although it has sat for a few months outside its been covered. So should be ok. I got it reasonably cheap anyway.

[GraemeC]

That is a verto clutch so either you need to get the slave cylinder, bracket and hose or you'll have to transfer the clutch & flywheel from your existing engine (not too difficult but you need a flywheel puller).

There is no important difference in the flywheel housing or clutch cover castings between verto and pre-verto.

[tino]

Ok you have both confused me, GraemeC says its a Vetro...Ethel says its not a Vetro clutch cover...then there is no difference between the two and well im lost...

Mine is a non-vetro I guess seeming its a 1979 mini.

I think im just going to ask the seller what it is, probably the easiest thing to do in the first place...

[Ethel]

Actually I think Graeme is right that's defo a verto operating arm.

Think my memories going I thought the verto's slave cylinder bolted directly on to the clutch cover but I'm now wondering if they didn't mount on a steel adapter plate.

Your options are still the same, swap the master cylinder or swap the clutch from the flywheel outwards with your old one.

From the piccies and what you've said I don't think you'll have too much problem getting it running.

If you can't get the matching SU carb, see if you can persuade the seller to whip the dashpot off so you can note the needle (letters stamped on it's base) and spring (dab of coloured paint) so you can get matching ones as a starting point.