15 replies to this topic

[NikB]

I spoke to the guy fitting my Spax Coilovers yesterday and it sounds like there is a problem with the rears. They are fitted with a beam axle (like the Huddersfield Minis one). He says that the spings are catching the body work as if the trailing arms are too narrow and pushing the bottom of the coilovers in.

Do we need to mod the bodywork or do I need different trailing arms?

[*DJH*]

Yes, i'm pretty sure the inner arches need modifying for coilovers

[Ethel]

Not aware of any different radius arms.

There is a coil over shocker with offset mountings if you're not already using it.

If someone was to measure up their standard mini ( Between the inner ends of the swivel pins perhaps? ) that'd tell you if it was down to the beam axle. I've got a similar set up so I'd be interested to know too. I made my own beam, 48 inches between the outer faces of the swivels. That too seemed a little narrow, but it's not on a Mini shell.

i think it'd be easiest to "cut 'n shut" your beam to add some width

[Jammy]

I really hope your not using the Huddersfield beam, I've heard of lots of problems with it!

As above, the Spax coilovers are usually offset, so make sure your guy has them on the correct side, otherwise it will be offsetting the unit further into the inner arch. When I fitted the rears the inner arch just need a bit of gentle persuasion right at the top of the turret.

[NikB]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I've just downloaded the Spax fitting guide from here:

http://www.spax.co.u...ssic/index.html

It mentions modding the top of the arches with a hammer, but nothing about the clearance on the lower par tof the springs.

Sounds like the beam may be too narrow and causing the bottom of the coilovers to be pushed toward the arch.

What bad things have been said about this beam? Is this a known problem? Would I be better off going for this?

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=38131

ETA: Just spoke to Mini Spares and there are no mods needed with the kit I have as they are offset to avoid the need for this. Sounds like the mounting points or geometry of the trailing arms is wrong somewhere.

Edited by NikB, 18 June 2007 - 09:53 AM.

[biggav]

I have the Mini Sport (not Shuddersfield one) and spax and i had to have my rear arches done... they were going to tub the arches but ended up beating the lower flange with a hammer to stop the coil from catching (the sort of half round bit where the shock is designed to fit)

When i fitted wheels back on, they were very badly toeing in and the outer radius arm brackets needed shimming to correct it which unfortunatle means that the spring will be even further inboard... as long as the area isn't rusty, i'd be going the hammer route .


Edit: i wrote lover flange instead of lower!!!!!

Edited by biggav, 18 June 2007 - 10:00 AM.

[biggav]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I've just downloaded the Spax fitting guide from here:

http://www.spax.co.u...ssic/index.html

It mentions modding the top of the arches with a hammer, but nothing about the clearance on the lower par tof the springs.

Sounds like the beam may be too narrow and causing the bottom of the coilovers to be pushed toward the arch.

What bad things have been said about this beam? Is this a known problem? Would I be better off going for this?

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=38131

ETA: Just spoke to Mini Spares and there are no mods needed with the kit I have as they are offset to avoid the need for this. Sounds like the mounting points or geometry of the trailing arms is wrong somewhere.

FraMini one is available again via TDK racing and is less than £100 i think. The one in the link is the same as the P+L one but cheapest from Mini Spares by atleast £15 when you add the postage and packaging costs.... (also you get 5% discount when you mention your TMF username.)

[R1mini]

Hello I have the minispares alloy beam, the coilovers are tight on this beam as well, panelbeating was required in several places top and bottom of the wheelarch to make sure the coilovers where clear throughout the suspension travel, not a big deal, but the nature of putting a larger coil over damper in the same space as just a damper makes the clearances very tight no matter what beam is used, as long as the basic width is correct on the Huddersfield beam

Cheers
David

Ps
I have the minispares alloy beam for sale if you still want to go down this route

Edited by R1mini, 18 June 2007 - 10:53 AM.

[samwell]

the tdk one is pretty damn cheap and so far all ive heard is posotive so might be worth giving him a ring. think theres a website... www.tdk-racing.co.uk

[Daveuk]

is there any problems fitting coilovers to the std read subframe?

[biggav]

is there any problems fitting coilovers to the std read subframe?

no, it will all fit but all the subframe does is hold the radius arms and susension bits... once you take the suspension bits away, its just dead weight.

[NikB]

Right, finally managed to get down to see the car this weekend. It looks like the rear beam will have to be cut and shut to add about 10mm to the track, this should sort the catching problem.

The other issue we now have (it never ends!) is that because it's stripped out the back is now sitting too high, even with the coilovers wound to their minimum height. Spoke to Spax and they are saying they are progressive springs so cannot tell the the poundage to buy a lighter set of springs. Anyone know what others run? People must have changed these before....


Oh and heres a pic...

Attached Files

•  mini.bmp   900.05K   31 downloads

[Matt]

ill save everyone else the hastle of downloading it......

Attached Files

•  mini.bmp   900.05K   7 downloads

Edited by Matt, 20 August 2007 - 08:49 AM.

[Ethel]

What the springs do to your ride quality will matter more than the ride height. Springs, I'm pretty sure, are rated in pounds per inch of spring compression....

Weigh the back end of your car, even bathroom scales under the wheels will be accurate enough. average the weight for each wheel (L+R / 2). you'll need to know the free length of the springs and how far they need to be compressed to give the desired ride height (with the spring seat mid damper to allow some adjustment) to work out the right poundage you require

Eg. 15 inch spring, 10 inch ride height is 5 inches per side. Say each rear corner weighs 250lbs: 250/5 = 50lb springs.


Still odd as my plastic kitcar can't weigh any more than yours and sits happily on standard Spax coilovers.

If the beam's just 1cm too narrow can't you make spacers, and outer brackets if req'd, as that's only 5mm per side?

[icklemini]

good idea to reinforce the top shock mounting on the bodywork with coilovers as the loads are going straight into the top of the arch now and not into the subframe..