16 replies to this topic

[annodomini2]

Hey all,

Currently having issue removing the clutch oil seal, could anyone offer advice on the best way to do this?

The haynes manual states to remove it with the primary gear using a special tool which I doubt I have.

The engine is still in the car and I am concerned that if I were to remove it with the primary gear that the bearings would fall out. (although I may be wrong)

Its a '91 998 city

Cheers
Ano

[Turbo Nick]

there aren't any bearings to fall out so you'll be ok.

I've never done one with the engine in before, only ever changed em while building the engine but i'd imagine if you cut it with a sharp knife then it'd come away pretty easily.

[Leonard]

i did this not long ago. carefully lever out with a screwdriver. it will take a lot of force to remove. Cutting it will help I'm sure

[icklemini]

i have the special tool that pulls the primary gear out whilst its all still in the car (nothing will fall out)... makes it sooo easy

never had much success in getting the oil seal out whilst leaving the gear in place, before i had the tool i struggled with 3 leg pullers to pull the gear out (thus pulling the seal out)

hth,
Dave

[Guess-Works.com]

Yup the tool is one of those which is a rarely used, but bloody useful items... I've picked up a few off ebay over the years, and sold them on when people have asked for them on here, but only have the one now...

Would be worth checking ebay tho'

[mk=john]

Hi
I am currenlty in the USA on business and this is my first post for 3 months!! Depending on how much mechanical experience you have, the clutch oil seal can be replaced in a weekend with the engine still in the car. You do not need to remove the primary gear (although some publications show that as one of the steps). I actually did my clutch oil seal on my mini this year.

If you keep the engine in the car during oil seal replacement, follow the basic steps as shown in the haynes manual, right up until and including removing the flywheel/clutch friction & pressure plate.

You can prise the old seal out with a screwdriver, by pressing alternate ends of it until you can grip enough of it with the screwdriver to force it out. This is quite tedious, but dont give up...it does come out!

The best way to put the new oil seal in position is with a special oil seal tool, available from Minispares. Its the safest way to get the seal over the primary gear splines without damaging the seal. Alternately, you can put a few layers of masking tape around the splines, but I recommend getting the tool as this also ensure the seal is exactly square when it is inserted.
Now follow the haynes manual to reassemble everything. Also, check the engine breathingn circuit is clear so you donet have excessive crankcase pressure.

Also, check you oil level. If it is too high, you will blow the new seal!!

[annodomini2]

I have the replacement oil seal, and the fitting tool, just really struggling to remove it.

Thanks for the replies, haven't given up yet!

[m1n1]

i've replaced a number in the last few years. a combination of gentle heat from the blowtorch, using a hammer and screwdriver to gently knock it at an angle, then a couple of picks to pull it out. Always worked for me.

[annodomini2]

i've replaced a number in the last few years. a combination of gentle heat from the blowtorch, using a hammer and screwdriver to gently knock it at an angle, then a couple of picks to pull it out. Always worked for me.

After advice from a friend he suggested attempting to drive something sharp through the seal and gently lever it out, however in doing so I have pushed it in at an angle at the top, now where the seal grabs a the bottom obviously this hasn't moved.

My current concern is moving the seal into a position where it becomes impossible to remove without removing the engine and transfer casing (basically because I don't have an engine crane and the exhaust isn't coming off without destroying it!)

I don't have any seal picks so are these essential?

[icklemini]

just pull the gear out - oil seal will come with it.

can then fit new seal to gear and refit (gently tapping seal home into the case squarly)

[annodomini2]

Finally got this removed, ended up borrowing the specific pulling tool from Minimail.

So if anyone needs this in the gloucestershire area, Minimail have one to loan.

[mk=john]

Glad you have managed to put the new seal in place.
Just incase you need to do another oil seal change (I hope not as its always a pig of a job on a mini!!), perhaps also invest in a flywheel locking tool.

I have one, and with the starter removed, it just bolts into place. This is most useful when you get to actually remove the flywheel nut using a breaker bar and using the flywheel puller.

John D

Edited by mk=john, 26 July 2007 - 04:37 PM.

[annodomini2]

Can someone remind me of the torque settings for the clutch as I don't appear to be able to locate them (at least with some degree of confidence)

1. My clutch kit (its verto), came with 6 bolts and no centre which I have taken from the other plate, however my Haynes manual treats them as one component. Anyone know the torque for these?

2. It states 18 lbs/ft for the pressure plate bolts is this correct.

3. Now the Flywheel Bolt is listed as 112lbs/ft for a diaphram clutch, however my haynes lists nothing for verto, i heard rumors of 150, but I may be wrong.

TIA Anno

[mk=john]

Hi
Your torque settings are important, so when someone says `150' make sure you know if it is lb x ft or n x m!!
112 lb-ft is approximately 151 nm, so perhaps he is giving his advice in a different unit!!

But anyway, its important that the flywheel is tight enough because of the obvious, a high inertia object rotating at high speed! As for the clutch spring bolt torques, I can't remember the value(I am in the USA at moment without my poor mini or Haynes manual at hand!!)

Before you out everything together, worth a check to see if your driving straps are parallell with the flywheel. But when you put the diaphram spring in place, torque it up gradually working on each bolt until the full torque is set.

John

P.S. I feel like a right pillock.....I didnt read that you have a verto clutch!! Durr! Anyway, I hope some of my advice helps!

Edited by mk=john, 27 July 2007 - 01:48 AM.

[annodomini2]

I meant lbs/ft, but I may be wrong of course.

I found out from Minispares that the centre bolts are 40lbs/ft. The reason being that the clutch kits used to be supplied with the centre plate fitted, this is no longer the case and only 6 bolts are supplied to transfer the old one over.

Is the Verto Flywheel Bolt also 112lbs/ft? Just to confirm?