Hi
I would like to change to silicon clutch and brake fluid for its advantages which include it doesnt act as paint stripper like the glycol one!!
But after I bleed the systems dry of the glycol fluid, I am aware that I need to flush clean the system with an alcohol cleaner.
What is the name, brand of the alcohol cleaner, and where can I obtain it? Also, to clean the system, is it simply a case of filling the system with the cleaner, leaving it overnight and then bleeding it all outso the system is dry, to then replace with the silicon fluid?
Thanks
Silicon Clutch Fluid
Started by
mk=john
, Jul 15 2007 11:17 AM
3 replies to this topic
#1
mk=john
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One Carb Or Two?
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Posted 15 July 2007 - 11:17 AM
#2
Ethel
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#3
pogie
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Speeding Along Now
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Posted 15 July 2007 - 05:50 PM
Silicone brake fluid is not the all singing stuff it's made out to be. I use DOT 5.1 glycol in my bikes and Mini and I’ve never found it a problem, but there again I don't make a habit of spilling brake fluid on my paintwork.
Here's a good article by Keith Calver, the last paragraph is the most telling. http://www.minispare...le.aspx?aid=351
Here's a good article by Keith Calver, the last paragraph is the most telling. http://www.minispare...le.aspx?aid=351
#4
dklawson
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Posted 16 July 2007 - 03:09 AM
I skimmed the article in the first link and I've been made aware of KC's comments about DOT-5 silicone fluid before. I have first hand experience with DOT-3, DOT-4, and DOT-5 but not the newer (and different) DOT-5.1 mentioned above.
Here is a condensed summary.
Racers do not like DOT-5 fluid citing it as too compressible (also time consuming to work with).
People who have trouble bleeding hydraulics don't like it either.
People who consider their restored classic car collectible, love it.
On a street car the differences in compressiblity are minimal. Were I racing I'd probably be strongly in the DOT-5.1 camp. While the argument about DOT-5 not absorbing water (and allowing water to pool) is technically true, it's NOT really a problem on a classic/collector car because of the amount of maintenance we give our cars. The fluid typically gets changed by a collector before it can pool water and become a problem.
The most serious complaint about DOT-5 is its ability to trap air bubbles making bleeding and getting a firm petal difficult. There are simple steps to take to prevent this. First, know how to bleed normal hydraulics. You don't want to be learning on DOT-5. Second, allow the bottle/can of fluid to sit overnight before planning on bleeding the system. Third, DO NOT pour the fluid directly into the reservoir. Place a very clean, long screwdriver in the open top of the reservoir and pour the fluid slowly down the metal shank of the screwdriver. This greatly minimizes the chance any bubbles are introduced into the fluid.
Keep in mind that John's original question was about the clutch, not the brakes. Compressibility, pooling... all that is much less of a problem with a clutch and from memory... John just went through his car's clutch within the past six months.
Lastly, in answer to the original question, simply get a can/bottle of isopropyl alcohol. It's not special, just poisonous. First flush the system with water, plain water. Then blow the system out with compressed air (reservoir to bleed nipple). Repeat the process with the alcohol and blow dry again with compressed air. When I have done this I rig up an adapter to the reservoir fill hole and leave the compressed air connected at very low pressure so it blows dry air through the system slowly for well over an hour.
Here is a condensed summary.
Racers do not like DOT-5 fluid citing it as too compressible (also time consuming to work with).
People who have trouble bleeding hydraulics don't like it either.
People who consider their restored classic car collectible, love it.
On a street car the differences in compressiblity are minimal. Were I racing I'd probably be strongly in the DOT-5.1 camp. While the argument about DOT-5 not absorbing water (and allowing water to pool) is technically true, it's NOT really a problem on a classic/collector car because of the amount of maintenance we give our cars. The fluid typically gets changed by a collector before it can pool water and become a problem.
The most serious complaint about DOT-5 is its ability to trap air bubbles making bleeding and getting a firm petal difficult. There are simple steps to take to prevent this. First, know how to bleed normal hydraulics. You don't want to be learning on DOT-5. Second, allow the bottle/can of fluid to sit overnight before planning on bleeding the system. Third, DO NOT pour the fluid directly into the reservoir. Place a very clean, long screwdriver in the open top of the reservoir and pour the fluid slowly down the metal shank of the screwdriver. This greatly minimizes the chance any bubbles are introduced into the fluid.
Keep in mind that John's original question was about the clutch, not the brakes. Compressibility, pooling... all that is much less of a problem with a clutch and from memory... John just went through his car's clutch within the past six months.
Lastly, in answer to the original question, simply get a can/bottle of isopropyl alcohol. It's not special, just poisonous. First flush the system with water, plain water. Then blow the system out with compressed air (reservoir to bleed nipple). Repeat the process with the alcohol and blow dry again with compressed air. When I have done this I rig up an adapter to the reservoir fill hole and leave the compressed air connected at very low pressure so it blows dry air through the system slowly for well over an hour.
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