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Best way to use waxoyl


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#1 mike.

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 03:17 PM

Ok so im picking up my mini tommorow, i'll post a topic then to tell you all about it on wednesday :P

Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future.

So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside)

Does the gun thing work well?

Edited by minimadmike, 23 July 2007 - 03:18 PM.


#2 Bungle

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 03:28 PM

you really want to do this on a hot dry day and make sure your mini is 100% dry

get your mini up a axle stands and clean off all the under body with a wire brush to remove dirt and old waxoil etc

then spray away

for box section's the wax oil should come with a small probe (you might have to drill a small hole for excess)

for door skins etc remove interior panels and spray or paint on

its best to do this on a hot day as the waxoil runs better if its cold place the can in a bucket of hot water :P

#3 mab01uk

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 07:17 PM

Ok so im picking up my mini tommorow, i'll post a topic then to tell you all about it on wednesday :P

Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future.

So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside)

Does the gun thing work well?


Clean the gun well after every use or it clogs up. For the sills spray in the seat belt bolt holes and up all the drainage holes in the outside sill, lay something on the ground to catch the drips. Also remove the rear seat side pocket trims and spray inside the inner sills near the rear subframe mounts and rear panel lower sides. Also A panels behind the door hinges, etc. As Bungle says stand tin in very hot water to make it flow and spray easily. Waxoyl works I did one of my Minis 20 years ago and its still on original sills, etc.

#4 mike.

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 07:47 PM

So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do?

For the subframes i was planning on wire brushing any C**p off them, putting rust treatment on anywhere if they need it, a coat of waxoyl then giving them a coat of hammerite. Will this do or will i need to get them off? I'm planning on having the engine out for a rebuild anyway if the weather picks up so if i do end up taking that out then removing the front subframe shouldn't be a problem but until then i want to get them protected abit.

So yeah, any other aeas i should pay particular attension to with the waxoyl?

#5 Bungle

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 07:51 PM

hammerite first waxoyl as a top coat :P

#6 minivanman

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 08:02 PM

I mix it 3/4 waxoil and 1/4 old engine oil. Means it flows a lot easier, you dont have to fart about heating it and it also seems to stay on the car for longer instead of drying up and flaking off. Although you dont have to heat it either - most people dont realise the more you shake the tin, the more liquid it goes. I've used it in the middle of winter with no problems.

#7 JoeMcb

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 08:18 PM

I mix it 3/4 waxoil and 1/4 old engine oil. Means it flows a lot easier, you dont have to fart about heating it and it also seems to stay on the car for longer instead of drying up and flaking off. Although you dont have to heat it either - most people dont realise the more you shake the tin, the more liquid it goes. I've used it in the middle of winter with no problems.


just finished cleaning the grim off the underneath of my mini (with all the sills off). Giving it two coats of red-oxide and one of hammerite. Do I wait till the car is sprayed before putting on the waxoyl then or just do the underside now?


PS Asked a question in the suspension thread today buts its been bumped to page 2 already with no answer! Any help would be great!

#8 mab01uk

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 08:34 PM

So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do?

For the subframes i was planning on wire brushing any C**p off them, putting rust treatment on anywhere if they need it, a coat of waxoyl then giving them a coat of hammerite. Will this do or will i need to get them off? I'm planning on having the engine out for a rebuild anyway if the weather picks up so if i do end up taking that out then removing the front subframe shouldn't be a problem but until then i want to get them protected abit.

So yeah, any other aeas i should pay particular attension to with the waxoyl?


Minis don't really go rusty around the front subframe area due to engine oil leaks, etc, so no need to take it out normally unless you really want to. The rear ones go rusty but if you take it out you will probably end up replacing it anyway unless it is exceptionally good. If its passed MOT I would just spray it in situ unless you want to enter concours at shows. Another rust prone area to do is the rear corners of the boot floor underneath and the inside of the rear bumper valance and the closed box sections each end. You can access these through the rear foglight bracket screw holes or drill from the back and put in a blanking grommet after spraying in waxoyl.
As has been said you can't paint over waxoyl it forms a flexible water proof coating over metal and paint, it evens keeps water off existing rust so stopping its progress. (Rust needs water and air.)

#9 mab01uk

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 08:41 PM

I mix it 3/4 waxoil and 1/4 old engine oil. Means it flows a lot easier, you dont have to fart about heating it and it also seems to stay on the car for longer instead of drying up and flaking off. Although you dont have to heat it either - most people dont realise the more you shake the tin, the more liquid it goes. I've used it in the middle of winter with no problems.


just finished cleaning the grim off the underneath of my mini (with all the sills off). Giving it two coats of red-oxide and one of hammerite. Do I wait till the car is sprayed before putting on the waxoyl then or just do the underside now?


PS Asked a question in the suspension thread today buts its been bumped to page 2 already with no answer! Any help would be great!


You can Waxoyl over the Hammerite unless you want those areas sprayed in body colour. The spray paint would not stick long to waxoyl so the choice is yours really. Also best not to do any waxoyl inside sill box sections until any welding is done!

#10 pogie

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 07:02 AM

If you are able to put the waxoil can near a radiator or in an airing cupboard for a while before you use it as the heat will help get it nice and runny, or alternatively you could put the waxoil can in a bucket of hot water before you use it. I once waxoiled my Mini in the cold and it solidified on contact with the air and hardly covered any area on the underside of the car.

Also, don’t ask me how I know this, but don’t over pressurise the can. If you do it will probably push the hose off the nozzle, and if the hose does come off it will be at the moment you are peering behind the rear valance with a torch to see if it’s all covered and the hose is unknowingly aimed at your face and two litres of the sticky black muck will cover you and your garage walls before you can relieve the pressure in the can. :P

#11 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 07:45 AM

I HATE waxoil...

Personally I'd be stripping the bottom of the car of it, and then shutzing it, either with shutz or with stonechip...

#12 mike.

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 10:18 AM

I HATE waxoil...


Whys that? Everybody else seems to love the stuff!

#13 Silicon Skum

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 12:13 PM

It's better to use the clear waxoil, rather than the black stuff - that way you can see where any rust problems are starting, and treat them before it gets bad. :P

Waxoil is good at what it does, but it's no good spraying it over rust! The waxoil will seal the rust alright, but it also trap the existing moisture (doesn't need much - there is enough moisture in the air) and oxygen (rust is an OXIDE remember - this oxygen can be scavanged from existing rust / ferrous oxide III) and the rust will still grow and spread - though at a slightly slower pace. Clean up all rust before spraying waxoil over it


The use of motor oil is a good idea, it does help the waxoil to flow better, protects for longer (stops it drying out so quick) and will slowly creep into the tiny area that are easily missed by the waxoil. The engine oil does a good job on the front subframe, might as well use it on the rest of the car. :(

For thinning waxoil I normally just use white spirit, which evaporates fairly quickly ( few days to a coupe of weeks depending on temp) and helps get the waxoil into the small gaps between welded sections, and gives a much better coverage. I usually do one coat, wait a week or two for it to dry, then give it another coat to build up the depth.
Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed.

SS

#14 mike.

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 12:24 PM

Right i'll try adding a bit of oil to the waxoyl then. But if i'm using the spray gun with presurised can i won't be able to add anything to it will i? How do most people apply waxoyl?




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