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Wheel stud removal.


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#1 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:33 AM

So, I've snapped a wheel stud :shifty:

Do I need to remove the whole hub or will the drive flange part come off without the need to remove the whole hub????

It looks like it might but I dont want to force it.

I've removed wheel and castle nut...what next???

There doesn't seem to be enough room to knock the old stud through, withought removing the flange part (the bit that has the studs on)

#2 Udo

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:43 AM

You need to move the brake caliper out the way dont undo the brake pipe thou, this allows you to remove the disc and flange attached to it

Separate the disc and drive flange then with a suitable drift and a hammer remove the remaining stud

Then basically insert new stud and reasemble

#3 Ethel

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:46 AM

Can you not do it with the hub on the car? I've certainly managed to on other vehicles.

#4 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:47 AM

You need to move the brake caliper out the way dont undo the brake pipe thou, this allows you to remove the disc and flange attached to it

Separate the disc and drive flange then with a suitable drift and a hammer remove the remaining stud

Then basically insert new stud and reasemble


Whats the best way to seperate the disk from the drive flange?

#5 dklawson

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:49 AM

The re-assembly bit is a bit awkward. There isn't room to "drive" the new stud in place very far. A way around this is to tap the stud part-way in place, fit the pieces, then (assuming you have the lug nuts that are tapped all the way through...) put a lug nut on "backwards" so the flat side is down. (I seem to remember using a socket as a spacer on the stud during this process.) Use your lug wrench to tighten the nut and draw the stud forward into the hub. When you think it's tight, remove the backwards nut and washers and refit the road wheel. However, check the torque on the replacement stud frequently during the first month as additional seating may happen while driving.

Edited by dklawson, 26 July 2007 - 11:50 AM.


#6 Udo

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:51 AM

Undo the bolts :shifty:

You may need to hold the disc in a vice to undo them thou

#7 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:53 AM

Undo the bolts :shifty:

You may need to hold the disc in a vice to undo them thou


Lol, I gathered that much....but once the bolts are out...what then...it seems to be stuck to the hub (its still on the car at this point.)

#8 Udo

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:53 AM

The re-assembly bit is a bit awkward. There isn't room to "drive" the new stud in place very far. A way around this is to tap the stud part-way in place, fit the pieces, then (assuming you have the lug nuts that are tapped all the way through...) put a lug nut on "backwards" so the flat side is down. (I seem to remember using a socket as a spacer on the stud during this process.) Use your lug wrench to tighten the nut and draw the stud forward into the hub. When you think it's tight, remove the backwards nut and washers and refit the road wheel. However, check the torque on the replacement stud frequently during the first month as additional seating may happen while driving.



Good point there DKL alot better than simply hammering it home

#9 Udo

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 11:57 AM

Undo the bolts :shifty:

You may need to hold the disc in a vice to undo them thou


Lol, I gathered that much....but once the bolts are out...what then...it seems to be stuck to the hub (its still on the car at this point.)


The parts are quite a close fit so may well be stuck due to corrosion, penetrating oil between the two bits and a bit of brute force. It will help if you can hold one bit in a vice ie of the car


Clean the disc up very well before putting back on due to more than likely getting oil on the disc ie with brake cleaner white spirts or the like

Edited by Udo, 26 July 2007 - 11:59 AM.


#10 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 12:05 PM

I managed to tease it out from the hub by a small amount by knocking in some screwdrivers...

The hub nut and the four flange bolts are out...But the driveshaft is still in. If i use a puller on it there is there anything stopping it from coming off now???

I want to avoid removing the hub if i can help it...

#11 Udo

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 12:19 PM

You dont need to remove the hub at all.

Are you trying to remove the drive flange but leave the disc in place? ie the brake caliper is still in place

Under the castle nut / hub nut there is a tapered washer have you removed also this?

It sounds to me like your driveshaft splines are stuck in the drive flange

A few taps with a SOFT faced mallet and so penetrating fuild might help just get things moving but I've never had a drive flange stick

#12 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 12:22 PM

You dont need to remove the hub at all.

Are you trying to remove the drive flange but leave the disc in place? ie the brake caliper is still in place

Under the castle nut / hub nut there is a tapered washer have you removed also this?

It sounds to me like your driveshaft splines are stuck in the drive flange

A few taps with a SOFT faced mallet and so penetrating fuild might help just get things moving but I've never had a drive flange stick


Yes, I just want to remove the drive-flange to I can replace the stud. the brake caliper is still in place.

I have removed the tapered washer.

I don't think the splines have stuck, I replaced the CV joint on this side fairly recently, i'll have a go at removing it again.

#13 AlexM

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 03:30 PM

Right o. All done now and back together.

The drive flange will come off while the rest of the hub assembly is on the car. And once I knew what i was doing i had no trouble with this.

I knocked the driveshaft through with a soft faced mallet (although i did whack it quite hard) The flange then came off with ease.

I noted DKlawsons method of replacement. I Inserted the new stud and knocked it in a little way. i then placed the hub on the other side of the road wheel in the same posiiton as if it was on the car. I then tightened the wheel nut on the new stud a little bit at a time (with the other studs in aplace and nuts attached). Untill it came all the way through.

It was then easy to put the flange back on the hub assembly and refit the castle nut and drive flange nuts (all to appropriate torques.)

So to answer my question :shifty: Yes, yes you can.

#14 Big_Adam

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 04:41 PM

I'd just check the torque on that nut a little later.

Thats what I do when I snap them and replace them, I get paranoid about these things.

#15 Jordie

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Posted 26 July 2007 - 05:48 PM

Yes you can.....but it would have been quicker/easier to remove 2 bolts holding the caliper in place. Then remove the disc and flange complete and seperate it in one swift hit with a rubber mallet......




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